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Thread: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

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    Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    Hi All,

    I am a new pool owner, had it built just last month.

    I have a 23K gallon rectangular pool with a swg.

    I tested the following levels with a Taylor K-2006 Kit.

    FC - 3.6ppm
    CYA - over 100
    TA - 130
    Ph - 7.6


    I am worried about the CYA and TA levels.

    Suggestions from the pro's please??

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    TA is nothing to worry about and will find its happy spot just from keeping the pH in range.

    Biggest concern is the high CYA. Anything over 100ppm can register as that. You could try the test with a 50/50 mix of pool and tap water and then double the result to get a better idea. Best solution is replacing water to get down into the recommended range.

    Right now your FC is way too low for that high of a CYA. Check out the CYA/FC chart in Pool School.

    Edit: I see the SWG mentioned so the FC may not be way too low but it is still a little too low. Certainly don't want algae to start at that high CYA, so at a minimum get your FC up some more.

    Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
    Jason, TFP Moderator
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    Re: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    What did you use to get your cya up so high? Are you using pucks as well as your swg? It's hard to imagine your cya is that high in one month's time unless you were adding it unknowingly, or didn't know what you were adding. You may want to check it again to be sure... or do you know what you've added that has made it so high? Any granular chlorine you add is going to add either cya or calcium... If it is really that high, you're going to need to drain some water to get it to 70-80 with for use with your swg. Any test result over 100 can be 100++ as the test becomes less accurate above 100.

    We need more information about your pool to be able to tell you if your TA is a concern. With a swg it is recommended to be 70-90, but if your ph is staying steady it may be ok not to worry about it depending on your pool surface is.
    Indiana, ABG 24'x52" Galveston by Blue Cascade (Craigslist buy w/part of deck included), 13,500 gallons, Intex SWG, solar panels mix 2, TF-100 test kit.

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    Re: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    Quote Originally Posted by Suziqzer
    What did you use to get your cya up so high? Are you using pucks as well as your swg? It's hard to imagine your cya is that high in one month's time unless you were adding it unknowingly, or didn't know what you were adding. You may want to check it again to be sure... or do you know what you've added that has made it so high? Any granular chlorine you add is going to add either cya or calcium... If it is really that high, you're going to need to drain some water to get it to 70-80 with for use with your swg. Any test result over 100 can be 100++ as the test becomes less accurate above 100.

    We need more information about your pool to be able to tell you if your TA is a concern. With a swg it is recommended to be 70-90, but if your ph is staying steady it may be ok not to worry about it depending on your pool surface is.

    Thanks for the replies. I just did the 50/50 test and CYA looks about 120.

    Nothing has been added to the pool except water and salt. As far as I know, the pb didn't add anything else.

    So I just need to up my FC and only worry if the Ph get out of balance?

    or should I drain?

    Thanks again!

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    Re: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    Hi, Rick,

    CYA is not naturally occurring. It has been added to the pool and at 120, is really almost unmanageably high.

    You can get rid of it only by draining off a percentage of your water. I would suggest a 33% drain which should get it to 80 when you refill which is at the very high end of manageable.

    With a CYA of 80, you can dial in your SWG to maintain FC around 4-6ppm and you should be fine the rest of the season.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    Well tap water does not have CYA ... So someone added it.

    Draining about a third of the water to lower the CYA to 80ppm is the best option ... Although if the water is clear, you could probably get by leaving it high for the rest of the season if you maintain the FC above 6ppm at all times. Maybe target 8ppm to be safer. Although if algae starts, you will have to drain to lower the CYA.

    As you adjust the pH, which will drift up due to the SWG and TA, the TA will drop everyone you add acid. Simplest to just watch the pH.

    Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
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    Re: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    My pb probably did without telling me. So I will up the FC for now and work with it but when I open the pool next year will I still have to deal with this?

    If so, i should probably just drain correct?

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    Re: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    when I open the pool next year will I still have to deal with this?
    Depends. What city and state do you live in? Do you close for the winter and drain down anyway or do you paln on keeping the pool open.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
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    Re: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    I live in Albuquerque, NM...

    Will not be draining the pool unless something like this happens. We don't get temps cold enough.

    Will be using the spa (attached) year-round.

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    Re: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    Unless you drain some of the water, likely you will have very close to the cya level you have now when you open again in the spring. It will be a little lower due to back washing between now and then, and any addition of rain, etc can dilute it if you have to drain some of the water due to it getting too high. Generally though, cya doesn't get used up or disappear.

    You may be able to manage it if you keep your FC levels at the recommended levels for the 120 range and just wait for it to naturally come down with back washing. It will mean you have to use more chlorine or probably run your swg for longer amounts of time, but if water is a big expense there... and I'm assuming it is... it is an option. Just don't get lazy and let your FC drift down too low or you'll have quite a lot of chlorine to lug around to shock your pool.
    Indiana, ABG 24'x52" Galveston by Blue Cascade (Craigslist buy w/part of deck included), 13,500 gallons, Intex SWG, solar panels mix 2, TF-100 test kit.

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    Re: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    Can we suggest another test?

    I am concerned that this test may be from a pool store and well, we have seen a lot of, um, VARIABILITY (wildly wrong results) from pool store tests. Maybe they did not rinse the vial from the test before. Maybe they did the test so fast that they shot too much reagent in the vial, since they expect some results that are in the CYA range they may not slow down the shot of reagent until there. Just guessing -- I've only had one pool store test done in the past 2 years and they moved so fast I cannot see how they could tell the difference by 30% of anything. I go slow and count each drop, they go, shhhhup, done.

    To prove this, take one large sample and divide into 3 equal parts. Take to 3 different pool stores that offer free testing. compare the results.

    If you have your own test kit to do these tests, maybe I missed that part.

    So where are these tests from?
    23,000 gallon in ground pool with rock waterfall and spillover spa, Aqualink control system, Polaris 380 cleaner, Purex Triton Clean&Clear Plus cartridge filter. Located in The Woodlands, Texas.

    Pool owner since Nov 2008, Trouble Free since April 2009. Happy to help when I can.

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    Re: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    anonapersona.... In the first post he told us that he used the Taylor K-2006.
    Indiana, ABG 24'x52" Galveston by Blue Cascade (Craigslist buy w/part of deck included), 13,500 gallons, Intex SWG, solar panels mix 2, TF-100 test kit.

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    Re: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    You know, I think I need to turn in my TFP Expert badge.... too many errors from too quick reading.... really. (sigh)
    23,000 gallon in ground pool with rock waterfall and spillover spa, Aqualink control system, Polaris 380 cleaner, Purex Triton Clean&Clear Plus cartridge filter. Located in The Woodlands, Texas.

    Pool owner since Nov 2008, Trouble Free since April 2009. Happy to help when I can.

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    Re: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    Quote Originally Posted by anonapersona
    Can we suggest another test?

    I am concerned that this test may be from a pool store and well, we have seen a lot of, um, VARIABILITY (wildly wrong results) from pool store tests. Maybe they did not rinse the vial from the test before. Maybe they did the test so fast that they shot too much reagent in the vial, since they expect some results that are in the CYA range they may not slow down the shot of reagent until there. Just guessing -- I've only had one pool store test done in the past 2 years and they moved so fast I cannot see how they could tell the difference by 30% of anything. I go slow and count each drop, they go, shhhhup, done.

    To prove this, take one large sample and divide into 3 equal parts. Take to 3 different pool stores that offer free testing. compare the results.

    If you have your own test kit to do these tests, maybe I missed that part.

    So where are these tests from?
    Thanks all again. I took a water sample to Leslie Pools and they tested CYA at 50!

    So I tested CYA home with the K-2006 kit. Is it, dare I say, possible the Taylor kit is giving me a false reading???

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    Re: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    I took a water sample to Leslie Pools and they tested CYA at 50!

    So I tested CYA home with the K-2006 kit. Is it, dare I say, possible the Taylor kit is giving me a false reading???
    Anything is possible.........FAR more likely is that the pool store hasn't a clue. Please trust your own testing, you won't regret it.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    Re: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    i just find it hard to believe the pb would add that much stabilizer and not let him know and to have that much in a month and according to the pool calculator they would have had to have added 369 oz of crystal stabilizer or 955 oz of liquid stabilizer and i just can't see it. did you perform the test in direct sunlight with the sun to your back? i just don't want you to be draining and refilling for nothing. can you call the pb and askk them what thay added?.......Mike
    18x52 intex ultra frame pool 6981 gallons, 1 HP LL pump with 19 in sand filter,BBB method,borax 50ppm
    leslies DPD test kit + fas-dpd chlorine test kit + borates test strips
    thru wall skimmer,hard plumbed with 2 returns 1 1/2 sch 40 pvc
    1 large fountain 1 inch sch 40 pvc,shut off ball valves on all

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    Re: Pool Chemistry - New Pool

    Had the pool been well circulated when you gathered you water sample?
    23,000 gallon in ground pool with rock waterfall and spillover spa, Aqualink control system, Polaris 380 cleaner, Purex Triton Clean&Clear Plus cartridge filter. Located in The Woodlands, Texas.

    Pool owner since Nov 2008, Trouble Free since April 2009. Happy to help when I can.

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