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Thread: Pool light failure

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    Pool light failure

    My pool has two lights, which appear to say American Products (with a non functioning 888 number). They are halogen, 250 watt, 120v. Both of them failed before I bought the house. I took the lights out and found that the ceramic type "socket" for the bulbs have broken.
    I assume I will have to replace the entire bulb. Do I have to go to the electrical box and tie some sort of a cable or wire on to the ends of the cable to the light and then just pull on the pool end of the light to snake the cable back through. Then tie the new light cable on to the pull wire and pull it back through.
    I assume there is some sort of a grommet in the back of the niche. Is this a really tough pull to get the wire through.
    What sort of a pull wire works best. What problems am I likely to run into. What is the concensus about whether I should replace these lights with another halogen; go with LED, or something else.
    Any advice is greatly appreciated.
    Thanks
    Don Muncy
    14,000g IG Gunnite 10 yrs old DE filter 2HP pump Dallas TX

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    Qwaxalot's Avatar
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    Re: Pool light failure

    If the existing wire moves easily in the conduit (test by disconnecting at the junction box and pulling on the wire), we just cut the existing wire at the back of the fixture and use that as the pull wire. Do make sure that the new fixture has a long enough cable!

    There usually isn't a grommet ' but if there is a little grease solves the problem (you may have to pull the grommet and slide it over the new wire until it moves freely).
    In the industry, CSP (Certified Service Professional) by the NSPI and it's successor the APSP. My company services over 600 pools every year. I think the practices regularly espoused on this forum (especially the BBB method) are outstanding; however my comments will be often oriented towards the goal of getting it done, and getting it done right now!

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    Re: Pool light failure

    Qwaxalot,
    Did it work out okay for you? I'm thinking of changing my light too. I've replaced the rubber seal, the light still trips even when it's on the deck. I think the cord is bad. Was it easy to pull the wire? Can you tell me how you did it?

    The spa light is also on the blink. I think it's just the bulb as it's not tripping the GFCI. However, the screw to remove the light unit is strip'd and I cannot get it off. Any ideas? I tried an impact drive bit, it still will not budge. I might have to drill it out.


    Chin
    In the pool business and finally succumbed to building a pool....

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    Re: Pool light failure

    I never could get the wires to move. However, it turned out that it was broken bulbs, and I only had to replace them (and fix the wiring I tore up trying to pull the cables out) and all is well.
    Is there any way you can get a grip with vice-grip pliers. It would be a cinch to cut a new screw slot with a dremel tool if it wasn't under water. A hack saw blade might do it, but that would be tough going underwater as well.
    Good luck.
    Don Muncy
    14,000g IG Gunnite 10 yrs old DE filter 2HP pump Dallas TX

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    Re: Pool light failure

    How did you repair the cable? It's supposed to be water tight for high voltage and water reasons.

    Unfortunately, the screw head is recessed about 1/2" inside the light ring. I will have to drain the spa completely and drill it out I think. Sigh.
    In the pool business and finally succumbed to building a pool....

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    Re: Pool light failure

    Quote Originally Posted by H2Ocare
    Qwaxalot,
    Did it work out okay for you? I'm thinking of changing my light too. I've replaced the rubber seal, the light still trips even when it's on the deck. I think the cord is bad. Was it easy to pull the wire? Can you tell me how you did it?

    The spa light is also on the blink. I think it's just the bulb as it's not tripping the GFCI. However, the screw to remove the light unit is strip'd and I cannot get it off. Any ideas? I tried an impact drive bit, it still will not budge. I might have to drill it out.


    Chin
    I guess you are referring to the screw that holds the lens bezel onto the niche. If that is stripped, you could pick up a stripped screw bit. These are designed to be used with a power drill... just run the bit in reverse so it can dig itself into the stripped screw. Once it does so, it acts to help remove the screw. The problem is that you would have to hold the power drill underwater... likely not a good idea with a cordless drill, and quite a bad idea with a corded one! You can get flexible drill extension drives to eliminate the need to put the drill body underwater. Or you could use an air drill for this.
    38K in ground pool with attached spa. Current equipment: Easytouch 8 (521150) with IC-60 SWCG with web control by Autelis, 1x Pentair IntelliFlo 011018 pump (for filter), 1x Pentair 2HP WhisperFlo pump (for waterfall), 2X Pentair IntelliBrite 5G 12V lights, Pentair MiniMax400 NG Heater, Pentair SMBW2060 DE filter. Zodiac Barracuda MX8 cleaner on dedicated cleaner line. Lighting/home automation controlled by Insteon/ISY-99i.

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    Mike_W's Avatar
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    Re: Pool light failure

    At some point, especially if you are considering power tools, you need to drop the water level to below the light. I just removed a striped screw at the pool light niche with a screw remover from HD by draining the pool to below the top of the light and using a battery powered Craftsman C3 drill. Next task, replace the old Jandycolors light with a Jandy watercolors LED.
    Mike
    ~17' x 34' IG pool with attached spa - 20500 gallons - Gunite with a "pebblesheen"-ish finish
    Jandy iAqualink with iPad and Jandy PDA remote - Pentair IntelliFlo VS 11018 Pump
    AquaRite SWCG - Pentair SMBW 4060 DE Filter - Really Old Raypak heater
    "Wall-E" an Arneson-Hayward Navigator - A couple of Jandy/Zodiac WaterColors LED Lights - Blue-White F-1000 Flow meter

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    UnderWaterVanya's Avatar
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    Re: Pool light failure

    Quote Originally Posted by H2Ocare
    How did you repair the cable? It's supposed to be water tight for high voltage and water reasons.

    Unfortunately, the screw head is recessed about 1/2" inside the light ring. I will have to drain the spa completely and drill it out I think. Sigh.
    http://www.amazon.com/Eazypower-30167-4 ... B0009XAFXU
    Try something like a flexible drill shaft. With a battery powered tool and a drill bit designed to remove a stuck screw you will have it out in no time without draining.
    Inlaws Pool Boy since June 14th 2012, Pool built ~ 2003, In-Ground, 16'x32'
    13500 gal, Vinyl Liner, Fiberglass Slide, TF-100 Test Kit, Hayward 210T
    sand filter, A.O. Smith 1.5HP main pump motor (C48L2N134C1),
    Hayward SuperPump (model ?), Polaris 380 & PB4 Booster Pump

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    Mike_W's Avatar
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    Re: Pool light failure

    Quote Originally Posted by UnderWaterVanya
    http://www.amazon.com/Eazypower-30167-4 ... B0009XAFXU
    Try something like a flexible drill shaft. With a battery powered tool and a drill bit designed to remove a stuck screw you will have it out in no time without draining.
    My first thought - well, thats a good alternative - but the suggested tool is very poorly reviewed on the Amazon site. The idea seems like a good one though. Of course, at some point, the cost of the tool out weighs the cost of replacing the water (and salt) drained. (but I do love an excuse to buy another tool.)
    Mike
    ~17' x 34' IG pool with attached spa - 20500 gallons - Gunite with a "pebblesheen"-ish finish
    Jandy iAqualink with iPad and Jandy PDA remote - Pentair IntelliFlo VS 11018 Pump
    AquaRite SWCG - Pentair SMBW 4060 DE Filter - Really Old Raypak heater
    "Wall-E" an Arneson-Hayward Navigator - A couple of Jandy/Zodiac WaterColors LED Lights - Blue-White F-1000 Flow meter

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    Re: Pool light failure

    The place where I damaged the cables was up in the box prior to where they go underground. I was able to solder to the ends and wrap them with electrical tape.
    Don Muncy
    14,000g IG Gunnite 10 yrs old DE filter 2HP pump Dallas TX

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