First, I need to give a HUGE “Thank You” to all the TFP members!!! If it wasn’t for the imparted knowledge found on this forum, I tremble at how messed up my pool would be based on Leslie’s advice.
Hunker down and get ready for the background. Figured providing it all will help in determining if the right steps have been taken and what else should occur.
A couple Mondays ago, I got a reminder from the pool guy (husband) that the SWG (Hayward AquaRite T15) was blinking. I headed out at lunch, noted the current level (3000), turned off the system, and checked the cell. Initial rinsing and scrubbing did not take care of the scale build up; however, a clean cell was reinstalled after several acid baths/rinses (1st time in 2.5 years) and the Diagnostic button pushed to reset the Inspect Cell indicator light.
After two days, the SWG unit still read 3000 so I assumed the salt level was low and added more salt (33 lbs) to begin bringing it up to what TFP considers the appropriate SWG salt level:
Range (2700-3400 AQR)+(200-400 TFP)=2900-3800
Optimum 3200 AQR + (200-400 TFP)=3400-3600
After a few more days, the SWG unit still read 3000. I pulled out my AquaChek strips and received a 5200++ reading!!!! WTH??? Luckily, I noticed that the bottled expired in 2011…Yikes!
I immediately grabbed a sample of water and headed to Leslie’s for a “professional” test and to buy some new salt test strips with pool guy in tow. After a good half hour of having to explain to the Leslie’s associate what “SWG” stood for (2 secs) and the following lecture on how high the phosphates were which could be causing the cell to provide an inaccurate reading, and how high the calcium was which was absolutely unheard of, and how high the salt level was which could burn the cell out and require a replacement, and how low the TA was which could destroy my plaster and attack all the metal in my pool, I was able to get out of the store with the number to Hayward for an immediate consultation, without any hard product sales (PhosFree+X+Y+Z) , and with a scared pool guy still in tow.
I kept my head knowing that the situation was not as dire as the Leslie’s associate made it out to be and performed my own quick tests:
Pool guy was asked to hold off on adding any acid for the next few days to raise the pH and the Desired (FC) Output was taken down a notch. The following day (yesterday) I purchased 8 lbs baking soda (50 cents a lb…what a DEAL!) and a new vial of test strips (exp 02/2014).
This morning I flipped the SWG to OFF and cut the power, then turned the power on and flipped it back on Auto. I also added 4 lbs of the baking soda and let the filter run throughout the day like normal.
I also checked the SWG unit diagnostics.
[attachment=0:rlkhfgif]Test 2 & 3.jpg[/attachment:rlkhfgif]
The SWG is definitely generating chlorine so I am not worried about it shutting off because the salt might be too high; but I don’t get why the default display will not update with an accurate reading. Also scratching my head as to why the Instant Salinity shows -0. From everything I have read, the unit can only be reset using the Instant Salinity amount so that will not be any help in trying to recalibrate the device. Is there any other way to calibrate it?
Although it appears the K-1766 has the same +/- range as the AquaChek strips, I’ll be ordering them tomorrow for a separate salt test. I will also be checking the CYA and testing the CH for both the pool and tap water.
Another question… when TFP provides a range to hit for the results, I try to get it in the center, but how bad is it if one amount is at the high end of the range and another at the low?
Again, many thanks!!!