Aquarite chlorine generator box isues

[marc813]

I went to the pool store last week because the salt level was low.They tested the water and sure enough it needed stabilizer and salt. i had allready added the acid. We have had alot of rain so i know that it needs stabilizer and then salt. added both and let it go for a few days. I went and looked and the numer was 2500 again. I know that it cant possibly need morestabilizer and salt.

The display said 2500 but there were not any lights lit at all. I starred at it for a few minutes and heard a click and the lights came on for 10 seconds and then went off again. I opened up the box and couldnt see any burn or char marks and i did not see the that the diode was cracked or burnt. I inspected the cord that goes to the SWG and that looks fine and the SWG is only 2 years old.

when i go to the diagnostics:
cell voltage.... 0.04 climbs to 18.0....light come on and then the votage drops back to 0.04 this all occurs after i cycle through the diagnostics, because it defaults back to the 2500 after a minute.
amps..... 0.04
output... 84p
instant salt..0
product code...AL-0
software ......r 1.4


Any help would be appreciated. dont have the money to spend on a service call. but am willing to replace parts if need be. I can solder, run wire and turn a wrench. im not afraid to get in there.

 

[jblizzle]

We need to see your test results, ideally from your own test kit.

How much stabilizer and salt did you add? What were the levels an what were your targets?
They are independent of each other ... the SWG does not "read" the stabilizer level.

Also, please add your pool info and equipment in your signature so we can better offer suggestions.

 

[marc813]

Sorry about the misstep. not sure where I can add the additional information.to my signiature. I wasnt sure that you need all of that information. The pool store that I go to has been a life long friend so i know hes not out to screw me and trust him completeley when he says that it need this or that. All i ever need to add to my pool is acid when it rains too much and stabilizer and salt. I can go back to him today and find out the actual numbers. but lets say that the levels are correct after his advice on what to add last week were correct.
My display is there but the lights are not (all the time ). clue number one that it is not a chemical issue. could that cause the incorrect reading?

the salt level goal is 27-3500 PPM for my 37000 gallon salt water pool in Florida

 

[calm_like_a_bomb]

The current limiter could still be bad even though it's not cracked. However, I had a similar problem and it was an issue with the wires leading to/from the fuse. One was burnt and not geting a good connection. I replaced the end and all is good now.

aqua-rite-no-power-wasn-t-cl-or-k1-relay-t47305.html

Have you had your cell tested? You could also have a bad cell. (I had both, or maybe one caused the other)

CLB

 

[marc813]

Thanx for the advice.
I had looked for burnt wires but I think I will look again.
I too had read about the black diodecausing problems. I think that will be my next step.
Do you happen to have the part number or the rating of that black diode?
I had a bad cell two years ago.... actully after calling into goldline and doing some testing procedures with them I had a half of a bad cell. I replaced it.

 

[calm_like_a_bomb]

They had it listed in West1745's tread. (not sure if that's the one you read)
aquarite-not-generating-lights-not-on-t18264.html?hilit=digikey

Here is the part number. I did order these to fix my board, but it ended up being the wire. They are only a few bucks and the shipping is fast. Yeah, check the wires, I didn't noticed at first (even after "jiggling" the wires). But, as you can see from the thread, most of the time it is that current limiter.
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... &x=20&y=16

CLB

 

[marc813]

Thank you. I just ordered the part.
Its a starting point.