Pool/spa test results - Viking Fiberglass Pool/Spa

Aug 6, 2012
13
Sacramento
Pool

FC 5
TC 5
pH 7.5
TA 110
CH 200
CYA 85
Phos 500+
Salt 3400

Spa

FC 5+
TC 5+
pH 6.8
TA 8.0
CH 100
CYA 300
Salt (readable but not significant)
float chlorine caps in floater in spa trying to figure right number to keep pH and FC/TC levels right

Have to manually turn the equipment to run pool or spa or polaris

Test kit used: Taylors K-1005

Pool is 20K gallons Spa is 450 gallons
Pool is salt Spa is chlorine
2.0 horse power motor, plumbing is 2" PVC
Model 360 Polaris
Jandy Filter/Cartridges (4)
Goldline AquaRite Chlorine Generator (Turned dial down to 5 from 6)
Jandy J125 N Spa Heater


Run pool 7 hours/night
spa runs every other day 4 hours

Clear water but having issues with phosphates and some algae and stains 6 or so on bottom of fiberglass in pool and spa

So, any assistance would be appreciated on righting the chemistry and getting rid of the spots and cutting down on the buildup of gunk on the pool tile.

Also, where do I find the signuature part to include pool/spa information to avoid repeating it?

Posting this information for now.. trying to figure out how to post pictures too.

Thanks so much.
 
Some of those numbers look like pool store results? If so, you should consider getting an approapriate test kit, since pool store numbers can be very inconsistent. Take the cya of the tub for example...300 ppm, I am not sure that high of cya can even be read without doing a dilution.

Are the tub and pool connected?

vikingfiberglass said:
trying to figure out how to post pictures too.
Many people put there pictures on a site like photobucket, then post the url here.
 
I am not happy with the numbers either. It is a professional Taylor k-1005. I would be happy to take a photo of the information sheet for you to read. I have taken several pics and changed them to .pdf but they are still in the 500kb to 600kb range. Is there another way to send them to you? I have 10 or 12 pics.
As you will see in the pics. I have one jandy (4) cartridge filter and one 2.0 hp pump. I manually switch between the pool and spa for filtering. it is a headache since the spa is chlorine and pool is salt. I would like to just have a salt spa as well and was think about just manually transfering water with the jandy valves each day to maintain the same type of water between the two.
 
That kit is a start but is missing two important tests. The FAS-DPD chlorine test and the cya test. Your can supplement it by getting those test seperatly. tftestkits.net has them both (and fast shipping).

Looking forward to your pics.
 
Nice looking pool and spa. Since they are separate with no spa overflow into the pool (that I can see), it would be nice if they each had a separate pump and filter (and heater I suppose).

General statement for both bodies of water first: Forget about phosphates. In a properly chlorinated pool/spa phosphates don't matter.

Pool chemistry: With a cya of 85 ppm (how did you get this number?), your mininum FC level is 4 ppm when using a Saltwater Chlorine generator (swg), and you should never let it drop below that (per poolcalculator.com). Since you are observing algae, low FC at some point might be the cause? The rest of your numbers look okay, but don't let cya get any higher (our recommendation for swgs is 70-80 ppm). Since you have algae, you need to do the shocking process. We recommend doing this without the swg running and using bleach/liquid chlorine as your chlorine source. Without a FAS-DPD chlorine test, it will be hard to do the process efficiently.

Spa chemistry: How did you get 300 ppm cya? I would do a full drain/refill since it is not too much water. Then I would also do the shocking process until you pass the three tests described in the process. Lastly, consider using the dichlor then bleach approach instead of continually using trichlor pucks in a floater (which caused your high cya and low ph).
 
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