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Thread: Draining & Cleaning & Refilling from Scratch - 3 questions

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    Draining & Cleaning & Refilling from Scratch - 3 questions

    PH levels 8.8, AL level 186, chlorine 0 as per aqvacheck trutest digital (NOTE I cannot buy any of the stuff you guys mention here, however I can buy -> http://kerexuszodatechnika.webriq.com/s ... ubSiteId=1 tomorrow which also measure CYA)

    **My green swamp is going to be drained tomorrow, then I will clean the pool with bleach and pressure wash it.**

    Few Q's

    Question #1 - The well water is PH 8.0, so after filling it, should I add PH minus to bring it down, and then shock? -or- should I shock and then PH minus?

    Question #2 - After the pool has been shocked, when and how do I add stabilizer? (Can I use dichlor pucks, ie combi pucks which are chlorine, algaceide, and stabilizer) or is there just some kinda powdered stabalizer I can buy?

    Question #3 - I have a semi-manual chemical feeder attached to the return valves, and what should I put in this? Like 8 dychlor pucks (100% chlorine) or maxi-combi pucks? Or granulates? Or what?

    Thanks for the help )

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Draining & Cleaning & Refilling from Scratch - 3 questio

    1) Adjust pH first. Use pH down or muriatic acid
    2) Add stabilizer to about 30 right away. It will take a few days to dissolve and you'll need it to protect the chlorine from the sun. In the US, CYA is available by itself as granules or liquid. I have no clue about Europe. You might end up using Dichlor powder as your source of chlorine and CYA. It dissolves fast.
    3) I'd leave it empty. Otherwise you'll have too much stabilizer faster than you thought possible. Save the pucks for vacation.

    Hunt for Sodium Hypochlorite. NAOCl is the chemical formula. It's sold as laundry bleach as well as for institutional disinfection. Someone here found a source at a farm supply store that markets it for cleaning dairy barns. Liquid bleach would be the best source of chlorine, or buy a saltwater chlorine generator.
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    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
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    topher's Avatar
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    Re: Draining & Cleaning & Refilling from Scratch - 3 questio

    1) what I would do is add some acid to lower my PH to 7.4 or so using http://www.poolcalculator.com. then I would add some bleach to give myself 3 or so PPM,
    2)you can buy stabilizer at any pool store or even at walmart in powder form. put the correct amount as per poolcalculator into a sock and let it hang infront of your jet.
    3) the pool experts here will reommend you use bleach (liquid chlorine) over any puck or tab.
    If you have not done so already read through http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/ for more help on getting started.
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    Re: Draining & Cleaning & Refilling from Scratch - 3 questio

    Quote Originally Posted by SerbianPoolGuy
    Question #3 - I have a semi-manual chemical feeder attached to the return valves, and what should I put in this? Like 8 dychlor pucks (100% chlorine) or maxi-combi pucks? Or granulates? Or what?

    Thanks for the help )
    Follow the good advice above. To let you know, there is no such thing as a 100% chlorine puck. All pucks have some stabilizer in them and will eventually lead to too high of CYA if you don't have significant water replacement.
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    Test Kits . Pool Math . Chlorine/CYA Chart . The SLAM Process

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    Re: Draining & Cleaning & Refilling from Scratch - 3 questio

    One question guys, sorry for the stupid newb questions but i want to make sure I understand this pool calculator..

    My pool is 14693 gallons exactly (I entered this in pool calculator)

    If my starting PH is 8.0, and my goal is 7.4 - it says to add 35 oz of dry acid (PH Minus)... is that correct? 35 oz should lower it -0.6??

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    Re: Draining & Cleaning & Refilling from Scratch - 3 questio

    That is right depending upon your entered TA and Borate levels. I played with different levels of pH and 0 for borates and 35oz. is about right. If you have borates then the amount will change significantly. Also, when the pH is 8.0 it might be higher than that due to it being near the top of the chart and it gets difficult to read. If the pH doesn't drop as much as it should have, then the pH was probably higher than 8.0.
    16k gal plaster with raised spa, Jandy DEV60 filter, 2 HP 2-speed SHPF Jandy Stealth pump
    Hayward Aqua Rite T-15 SWCG, Jandy LXi 400k BTU NG heater, 350 sq.ft. of Sun Star solar panels, TF-100 Test Kit, Dolphin s300i Cleaner
    Test Kits . Pool Math . Chlorine/CYA Chart . The SLAM Process

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