Electrical ???'s

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Walt,

If his quote includes all the materials and labor then that is a fair price.

You need to ask him what gauge wire he is going to run for that 100 amp service and then check with the building inspector or someone and make sure it is heavy enough to carry the load over the distance of the run.
 
I'm in Ohio and no we haven't really thought about solar. I guess where I'm going is that I have to have the power ran out there anywhere so is it worth the extra cost to have the 220v ran and get a good deal on a heater. If it wasn't for the price on the heater I wouldn't even be exploring a way to heat the pool. Our neighbors down the street have a 33' round pool and it was up to 94 degrees last month. Will just use the heater to get into the pool earlier in the spring and stay in later in the fall.
 
The difference between running a 50 amp subpanel to the pool or a 100 amp subpanel is really a material cost difference. Basically the same labor, but need much larger copper wires to carry the load.

You could certainly ask them to give you a quote for the electrical install without the heater capability and then decided if the added cost (and risk of the used heater) is worth it to you.
 
walt7474 said:
If I don't go with the heater then I won't be adding a subpanel. Just a dedicated running to pool.
Click to expand...

This limits flexibility for the future - does that include Pump/SWG/etc? What about future goodies like a robot?
 
True. What I would consider doing is running a ~50 amp subpanel to the shed and then another ~50amp subpanel off of it to the pool. (I think that might be allow??? ... maybe not).

A better plan (without the electric heater), just run a 50amp subpanel directly to the pool pad. And if you want power in the shed, run a 20 amp circuit either from the house or from the pad at the pool.

Currently I only have a 20 amp subpanel at my pad ... works fine for my smaller 240V pump, gas heater, pool lights, and robot. Eventually I plan to upgrade the panel at the pool to maybe accommodate powering a hot tub. That 30A 120V pump is really a driver for what type of power delivery you need.
 
walt7474 said:
UnderWaterVanya said:
walt7474 said:
If I don't go with the heater then I won't be adding a subpanel. Just a dedicated running to pool.
Click to expand...

This limits flexibility for the future - does that include Pump/SWG/etc? What about future goodies like a robot?
Click to expand...


WOW...So many things to think about.
Click to expand...

LOL - I'm lucky my pool came with the house. The pool equipment is behind a detached garage and there is a sub-panel in the garage that the pool equipment is all tied off of.

I suspect you need a subpanel even if smaller than you would need with a heater.

Can you dig the trench? It's likely to be deep (18" plus).
 
Running a 100 amp service to the shed and then getting power for the pool from there would be your best bet in the long run.

Have you considered having the plumbing for the pool run back to the shed versus having the power run to the pool?

PVC is much cheaper than copper wire!
 

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so I've decided to do some of the work myself to save a few bucks. Can someone tell me what size wire I need to use to run from the main panel to the sub-panel? Then what will I need to run from the sub to the heater outlet. I'm assuming #12 to run to the pump.
 
If you are going to do the work yourself you should get a book on basic electrical work. When I did a sub panel in my garage my state (Mass) allowed homeowner electrical permits. A home owner was allowed to do the installation and it was inspected. They do not offer these permits anymore. A book will tell you what size wire to run and how to meet code.
 
Basically all I want to do is some of the more labor intensive work (trenching running conduit, pulling wire). Hoping to save a few bucks. In looking around on the web it looks like I'll need three #2 wire conductors and a #6 ground to get from the house to the shed. After that I'm gonna bow out and let the electrician do the work. Rather safe than sorry!!
 
Another thing you could do to save some money if you are doing it yourself is to use Aluminum cable. If it is allowed by code in your city/area then even though you have to upsize the conductor size it still is probably half the cost of Copper cable. Most residential large amperage runs are done with Aluminum and can be quite the costs savings. As for the conduit size, if you are doing it your self you could use a slightly larger size then is specified in Code books and the material cost for a larger PVC conduit is minimal. What is the distance you are looking at running?
 
Wire that is to be buried either directly or in conduit has to be direct burial rated. I doubt that is rated for that. You should contact a local electrical supply house and purchase THWN wire which is rated for conduit burrial in a wet area. Also the wire that will be used for the neutral in the service needs to be white or at least be marked with white tape or paint on the ends. Your local inspector may also want one of the hot leads marked with red (or any other color other than green).
 
Although people are trying to help here, the info you're getting is sort of all over the place. Lets go step by step. First, the sub panel... just to be clear... A 50Amp sub panel will be plenty sufficient. Is that what you're looking to install?

Also what service do you currently have at your main? 100a, 200a etc?
 

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