Can someone tell me if this is green or yellow algae?

May 29, 2011
34
Hi all-- I am beginning to see a green yellowish color on the bottom of my pool, which is resulting in greenish-tinted cloudy/hazy water. My current readings from Bioguard's ALEX system are as follows:

CYA: 90
Total Chlorine: 4.1
Free Chlorine: 4.1
pH: 7.6
Total alkalinity: 168
Adj. Total Alk: 141
Total Hardness: 221

I also tried to get my water tested at Leslie's, however, they refuse to test since my chlorine is too high, not sure why my other pool store not mention this. Can someone else confirm if my readings are good? I have recently been having too high of pH and had to add 4.5 lbs of Lo N' Slo (Dry Acid) last night. Hopefully, my pH is correct.

Can someone please tell me in the pictures if I am developing green or yellow algae, and what steps I should take to remove them? My chlorine levels seem to be fine, so I am not sure why I would be developing any algae.

Thanks!
 

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BioGuard ALEX vs Leslies Pool

Hi all--I have a 18K gallon pool and I have recently been having too high of a pH level (approx 8.0+). I added 4.5lbs of Lo N' Slo (Dry Acid) last night and here are my current readings this morning from a pool store that uses BioGuard Alex system:

CYA: 90
Total Chlorine: 4.1
Free Chlorine: 4.1
pH: 7.6
Total alkalinity: 168
Adj. Total Alk: 141
Total Hardness: 221

Now I also brought the sample to Leslie's Pool Store and they refused to test my water as my Chlorine level is too high. This is odd because I haven't added any shock for over a week, however, I do have chlorine tabs in there. Can someone who has experience with BioGuard's Alex System tell me if this is a reliable reading?

Is my Chlorine level too high to have an accurate pH reading? I am currently fighting an cloudiness and an algae problem and I'd actually like to add chlorine to the pool, however, I would like to correct my pH problem first.

Can someone also tell me the difference between BioGuard Alex vs Leslie's Pool and which system would you recommend in testing your water.

Thanks!
 
Do you have a test kit like these: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison?

A good test kit is important, pool store tests and the ALEX tend to be unreliable.

Your chlorine is not fine for your high cya. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/recommended_levels According to the poolcalculator.com your FC should never be below 7 ppm.

Since your cya is appears to be high, you may need to do a drain/refill, but you test numbers are not reliable enough to know for sure.
 
3FootPool said:
Is my Chlorine level too high to have an accurate pH reading? I am currently fighting an cloudiness and an algae problem and I'd actually like to add chlorine to the pool, however, I would like to correct my pH problem first.
No, you ph is fine, if you believe your tests (which I wouldn't).
 
linen said:
3FootPool said:
Is my Chlorine level too high to have an accurate pH reading? I am currently fighting an cloudiness and an algae problem and I'd actually like to add chlorine to the pool, however, I would like to correct my pH problem first.
No, you ph is fine, if you believe your tests (which I wouldn't).

Is there a reason why Leslie would not test it at my chlorine levels? Also, were you able to figure out from the pictures if this was typical green algae? or mustard algae? Additionally, what steps should I take in the mean time to cure this algae with my current readings?

Thanks!
 
3FootPool said:
Is there a reason why Leslie would not test it at my chlorine levels?
Because it's leslies? :mrgreen: I really don't know, but I do know that you should do your own testing with an appropriate kit.

3FootPool said:
Also, were you able to figure out from the pictures if this was typical green algae? or mustard algae? Additionally, what steps should I take in the mean time to cure this algae with my current readings?
With algae, you need to do the shocking process, but it will be difficult to try and do this without a good test kit.
 
linen said:
Do you have a test kit like these: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison?

A good test kit is important, pool store tests and the ALEX tend to be unreliable.

How often would I need to replace the test reagents for the Taylor 2006? The season is coming to an end and by the time the kit comes to my door, I would have less than a month left. Can it last me until the end of next season? I can't seem to find any literature on this.
 
3FootPool said:
linen said:
3FootPool said:
Is my Chlorine level too high to have an accurate pH reading? I am currently fighting an cloudiness and an algae problem and I'd actually like to add chlorine to the pool, however, I would like to correct my pH problem first.
No, you ph is fine, if you believe your tests (which I wouldn't).

Is there a reason why Leslie would not test it at my chlorine levels? Also, were you able to figure out from the pictures if this was typical green algae? or mustard algae? Additionally, what steps should I take in the mean time to cure this algae with my current readings?

Thanks!

How would Leslie's know what your FC level was if they didn't test it? As for why they would not test water based on the FC level, that's anyones guess.
 

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2 Days ago I added 2 bottles of liquid chlorine....which should have raised my Chlorine level to approx. 15 PPM, and I added granular shock the following day (last night) and my Chlorine level is probably 25 PPM now. I did see some white milky residue left from the algae, however, I still see a green/yellowish tint on the bottom of my pool. If I brush over it, it disappears and forms a cloud. Is this stuff definitely algae or I am I just aimlessly adding in chlorine.

However, I am concerned that my pH may be little bit high, roughly at 8 according to Leslies. I am receiving my Taylor FAS-DPD K2006 test kit tomorrow, so I can record my results better. However, would this have even significantly affected the chlorine killing off the algae? Would I be able to test my pH with that high of a chlorine level? Also, what should my next steps be?

Someone please help!
 
You can not trust the pH test when FC > 10ppm. Let the FC drop and then test and adjust the pH.

How does your water look?
Have you read the shock process in Pool School?
Post up a full set of results when you get your kit. Then doing an OCLT can help determine if you need to go through the full shock process (likely if you still see algae or the water is very cloudy).
 
jblizzle said:
You can not trust the pH test when FC > 10ppm. Let the FC drop and then test and adjust the pH.

How does your water look?
Have you read the shock process in Pool School?
Post up a full set of results when you get your kit. Then doing an OCLT can help determine if you need to go through the full shock process (likely if you still see algae or the water is very cloudy).

The water looks like the pictures above. It's clear but I see green yellowish color on parts of the floor of the pool. Does that look like algae to you?
 
If it brushes off, seems like algae. If it does not brush off, could be stains. Have you felt it? Is it slimy?

The OCLT will help tell if something is in the water consuming the FC.
 
I finally received my Taylor K-2006 and just ran a set of tests.

FC - 9-9.5
CC - .5
pH - 7.9 (acid demand - 5 drops)
Alk - 200-210
CYA - 45-55
Calcium - 225-240

I have ranges on these because I ran it twice (except for CYA) and wasn't positive which one to take but it all appears to be close.

Does my high chlorine level affect the pH and alkalinity ready? Please let me know what you think of these readings and how I should proceed in killing off algae. My pool does look a little clearer today.
 
pH test suffers with FC > 10ppm ... so your reading should be pretty good.

Lower the pH to 7.2 and then follow the shock process outlined in Pool School until you pass the 3 tests to stop. Your shock FC level is around 20ppm for your ~50ppm CYA. You do not want the CYA to get higher, so only liquid chlorine from now on.
 
jblizzle said:
pH test suffers with FC > 10ppm ... so your reading should be pretty good.

Lower the pH to 7.2 and then follow the shock process outlined in Pool School until you pass the 3 tests to stop. Your shock FC level is around 20ppm for your ~50ppm CYA. You do not want the CYA to get higher, so only liquid chlorine from now on.

Awesome...the water actually looks quite clear now with white residue left from the algae. Do you think I should just vacuum (to filter) or (to waste)? Do you think my Hayward SandFilter S220T will pick up most of this stuff, and then I will just back wash? I don't want to vac to waste if I dont have to, as to avoid diluting it with hose water once I re-fill.

So does that mean no more chlorine tablets? (just bought a brand new bucket a month ago!). Also, according to the Taylor pamphlet that came with the test kit, FC should be around 2-4, while this site is saying 5-6 with my CYA level. Does Taylor not consider the CYA level?

Thanks!
 
If there is not much to pick up, then just see how the sand filter does.

No more tablets!!! They add CYA and you are at the top of the recommended range. They will last for years, so you may be able to use them while on vacation or if your level drops due to backwashing and winter.

Basically, you are correct, Taylor does not take the CYA into account ... there are some weird legal reasons why companies never say more than 4ppm too. Government and pool companies seem to be VERY slow accepting the proven chemistry and change their ways.
 
ahhhh so I was vacuuming and I actually noticed that there is still tint of green/yellow on the bottom of my pool. Is this definitely algae or could it be something else? If i brush over it...it forms a cloud...not a very good picture below...
 

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