Hi,
We have a pool that started to turn green - we realized it was because our pump was going out, and ordered a new (stronger) pump. I spent quite a bit of time reading on this website, and formulating a game plan for when the new pump arrived.
One of our handicaps is that our HtH test kit only tests chlorine, bromine and pH.
The new pump arrived today. We drained and replaced some of the water (because we cannot test our CYA levels and I read somewhere on this website that replacing water would bring the levels down if they were high).
Basically, we're working off the concept that "If you don't have a test kit that can reliably measure high FC levels you will need to do some guessing. One indicator you can use is the color of the water. As long as the water remains a rich green, wait one hour and then assume that FC is zero. The algae will start turning gray or white when the FC level starts holding." (From: Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis)
We have been working on the pool since after the sun went down, so we have no issues (right now) with sunlight. Although, it is 2:30 a.m. so the sun will eventually come up, at this point that has not been a factor.
Here's what we did so far:
Added 1 gallons of liquid chlorine. Went to the store and got stuck longer than anticipated. Water still green three hours later. pH aprox. 6.8 Chlorine test indicator only has shades of yellow color indicators ranging from 0.5 to 5.0. Water for chlorine tests red.
Added 2 gallons of liquid chlorine. Added 4 lbs baking soda to raise pH (which was unchanged). Waited an hour. Water for chlorine tests red.
Water still green. pH 7.4. Added another gallon of liquid chlorine and 5 lbs powdered shock. Waited an hour. Water for chlorine tests red.
Water still green. pH holding around 7.4. Water for chlorine tests red - but if we wait about 30-60 seconds the "red" separates and form red flakes.
Enter coffee filters. I tried filtering the pool water then testing it. Same red-flakes result.
Then I tried adding half bottled spring water to the pool water to dilute it 50/50. Same red-flakes result.
Next, I tried using the coffee-filter filtered pool water, testing it to create the "red flakes" then filtered THAT and re-checked. The red flakes filter out very easily, but the remaining water is still a non-yellow orange color, although a light orange color.
I realize I'm at a disadvantage because we don't have a test kit that will check certain levels that would be helpful to check. That being said, does anyone have any educated suggestions on where to go from here? We have the chemicals to raise the CYA (remember, we replaced some of the water to lower it just as a precaution, since it's easier to raise CYA than to lower it) we have the chemicals to raise or lower the pH, and we have chlorine out the wazoo.
For now, we're going to add more shock and keep watching it on an assumption that the light-orange/red flake water is somehow a misreading due to the algae, and the assumption that the "light/pale" orange color we get once I filter the red flakes indicates low chlorine. We are cleaning the filter regularly, and we have excellent water flow since it's a brand-new-just-arrived-today-in-the-box pump. Additionally, and my husband put our sump pump into the pool for extra circulation.
Any suggestions? We have a round 18' easy set pool with an inflatable ring. We have a Intex 56633EG 2500-Gallon Filter Pump AC 110 to 120-Volt pump/filter system.
Thanks for any help!!!
Scott and Jodi
We have a pool that started to turn green - we realized it was because our pump was going out, and ordered a new (stronger) pump. I spent quite a bit of time reading on this website, and formulating a game plan for when the new pump arrived.
One of our handicaps is that our HtH test kit only tests chlorine, bromine and pH.
The new pump arrived today. We drained and replaced some of the water (because we cannot test our CYA levels and I read somewhere on this website that replacing water would bring the levels down if they were high).
Basically, we're working off the concept that "If you don't have a test kit that can reliably measure high FC levels you will need to do some guessing. One indicator you can use is the color of the water. As long as the water remains a rich green, wait one hour and then assume that FC is zero. The algae will start turning gray or white when the FC level starts holding." (From: Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis)
We have been working on the pool since after the sun went down, so we have no issues (right now) with sunlight. Although, it is 2:30 a.m. so the sun will eventually come up, at this point that has not been a factor.
Here's what we did so far:
Added 1 gallons of liquid chlorine. Went to the store and got stuck longer than anticipated. Water still green three hours later. pH aprox. 6.8 Chlorine test indicator only has shades of yellow color indicators ranging from 0.5 to 5.0. Water for chlorine tests red.
Added 2 gallons of liquid chlorine. Added 4 lbs baking soda to raise pH (which was unchanged). Waited an hour. Water for chlorine tests red.
Water still green. pH 7.4. Added another gallon of liquid chlorine and 5 lbs powdered shock. Waited an hour. Water for chlorine tests red.
Water still green. pH holding around 7.4. Water for chlorine tests red - but if we wait about 30-60 seconds the "red" separates and form red flakes.
Enter coffee filters. I tried filtering the pool water then testing it. Same red-flakes result.
Then I tried adding half bottled spring water to the pool water to dilute it 50/50. Same red-flakes result.
Next, I tried using the coffee-filter filtered pool water, testing it to create the "red flakes" then filtered THAT and re-checked. The red flakes filter out very easily, but the remaining water is still a non-yellow orange color, although a light orange color.
I realize I'm at a disadvantage because we don't have a test kit that will check certain levels that would be helpful to check. That being said, does anyone have any educated suggestions on where to go from here? We have the chemicals to raise the CYA (remember, we replaced some of the water to lower it just as a precaution, since it's easier to raise CYA than to lower it) we have the chemicals to raise or lower the pH, and we have chlorine out the wazoo.
For now, we're going to add more shock and keep watching it on an assumption that the light-orange/red flake water is somehow a misreading due to the algae, and the assumption that the "light/pale" orange color we get once I filter the red flakes indicates low chlorine. We are cleaning the filter regularly, and we have excellent water flow since it's a brand-new-just-arrived-today-in-the-box pump. Additionally, and my husband put our sump pump into the pool for extra circulation.
Any suggestions? We have a round 18' easy set pool with an inflatable ring. We have a Intex 56633EG 2500-Gallon Filter Pump AC 110 to 120-Volt pump/filter system.
Thanks for any help!!!
Scott and Jodi
