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Thread: Need some help

  1. #1

    Need some help

    Hi,

    We have a pool that started to turn green - we realized it was because our pump was going out, and ordered a new (stronger) pump. I spent quite a bit of time reading on this website, and formulating a game plan for when the new pump arrived.

    One of our handicaps is that our HtH test kit only tests chlorine, bromine and pH.

    The new pump arrived today. We drained and replaced some of the water (because we cannot test our CYA levels and I read somewhere on this website that replacing water would bring the levels down if they were high).

    Basically, we're working off the concept that "If you don't have a test kit that can reliably measure high FC levels you will need to do some guessing. One indicator you can use is the color of the water. As long as the water remains a rich green, wait one hour and then assume that FC is zero. The algae will start turning gray or white when the FC level starts holding." (From: Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis)

    We have been working on the pool since after the sun went down, so we have no issues (right now) with sunlight. Although, it is 2:30 a.m. so the sun will eventually come up, at this point that has not been a factor.

    Here's what we did so far:

    Added 1 gallons of liquid chlorine. Went to the store and got stuck longer than anticipated. Water still green three hours later. pH aprox. 6.8 Chlorine test indicator only has shades of yellow color indicators ranging from 0.5 to 5.0. Water for chlorine tests red.

    Added 2 gallons of liquid chlorine. Added 4 lbs baking soda to raise pH (which was unchanged). Waited an hour. Water for chlorine tests red.

    Water still green. pH 7.4. Added another gallon of liquid chlorine and 5 lbs powdered shock. Waited an hour. Water for chlorine tests red.

    Water still green. pH holding around 7.4. Water for chlorine tests red - but if we wait about 30-60 seconds the "red" separates and form red flakes.

    Enter coffee filters. I tried filtering the pool water then testing it. Same red-flakes result.
    Then I tried adding half bottled spring water to the pool water to dilute it 50/50. Same red-flakes result.
    Next, I tried using the coffee-filter filtered pool water, testing it to create the "red flakes" then filtered THAT and re-checked. The red flakes filter out very easily, but the remaining water is still a non-yellow orange color, although a light orange color.

    I realize I'm at a disadvantage because we don't have a test kit that will check certain levels that would be helpful to check. That being said, does anyone have any educated suggestions on where to go from here? We have the chemicals to raise the CYA (remember, we replaced some of the water to lower it just as a precaution, since it's easier to raise CYA than to lower it) we have the chemicals to raise or lower the pH, and we have chlorine out the wazoo.

    For now, we're going to add more shock and keep watching it on an assumption that the light-orange/red flake water is somehow a misreading due to the algae, and the assumption that the "light/pale" orange color we get once I filter the red flakes indicates low chlorine. We are cleaning the filter regularly, and we have excellent water flow since it's a brand-new-just-arrived-today-in-the-box pump. Additionally, and my husband put our sump pump into the pool for extra circulation.

    Any suggestions? We have a round 18' easy set pool with an inflatable ring. We have a Intex 56633EG 2500-Gallon Filter Pump AC 110 to 120-Volt pump/filter system.

    Thanks for any help!!!

    Scott and Jodi

  2. #2
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Need some help

    Welcome to TFP!

    Your pool went green due to lack of the proper amount of chlorine, not really the failing pump.

    I would highly advise you to order one of the recommended test kits. Our if you do not want to wait, at a minimum get the HTH 6 way drop based kit from Wal-Mart.

    You need to know the CYA level before you continue much further. And to properly follow the shock process you need to be able to measure high FC levels ... only possibly with the FAS-DPD chlorine test in the kits we recommend (or add it to the HTH kit separately).

    Also note, the pH test is not valid when the FC is more than 10ppm, which you likely are. So you pH reading may not be correct. Also note baking soda sites not have a large affect on pH.

    Start reading Pool School for more info on the chemistry.

    Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, Dolphin Diagnostic Robotic Cleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Gone: Hayward RS1500 pump, undersized DIY solar heater, Dolphin Dynamic Robotic Cleaner
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL

  3. #3
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    Re: Need some help

    I wish I could be more help, but without the TF-100 test kit giving accurate advice will be a little difficult. I hope someone else will chime in soon with a little more knowledge about your test kit. One thing I think everyone else would agree with is to leave your PH alone until you are done shocking. High chlorine levels will make PH testing inaccurate.

    If your pool water is still green I would keep adding liquid chlorine. 1 or 2 gallons at a time is most likely not enough to actually "shock" the algae. When I shocked I would have to add 8 gallons at a time. While you're waiting for the TF-100 test kit to arrive, I would take your pool water in to a pool store and get it tested = free. Post your results on here and read pool school while you wait for a response. Don't buy algaecides or anything else they will try to sell you. If your stabilizer(CYA) is low, buy the stabilizer. Other than that, all you need is most likely a couple cases of bleach/liquid chlorine. It took 80-90 gallons to get my pool clear when it was green, because I had to wait 10 days to replace my sand filter.

    How big is your pool? Gallons? Please give a detailed list of your pool like the bottom of my tag.

    Your pool will be clear before you know it. The test kit is worth it's weight in gold - trust me!
    2004 - 36'x18' 26000 Gallons - IG-vinyl, Hayward 244t sand filter=300lbs, Jandy HP plus 1-1/2hp pump, Jandy LX-400L heater, Jandy AquaPure1400 Chlorine Generator (salt), Polaris 480 robot

  4. #4

    Re: Need some help

    We live over an hour away from the nearest pool store, so testing it in a store isn't really practical.

    We are very frustrated. It's looking like the cost of chemicals to fix the algae problem is more than it would cost to drain the pool and simply replace all the water! We are going to use the chemicals we have on hand throughout the night and see if a friend has a better test kit that we could borrow first thing in the morning. I don't want to stop working on the pool while waiting for a test kit to arrive and losing all the work we've done, and I just can't afford to keep dumping chlorine into the pool if it's not doing any good, ya know?

    We tested our chlorine daily and added the right amounts; it never had a problem until the pump died on us though. I added three pounds of shock the day the pump died and it turned green anyway. I should have clarified that the pump was running slow, but had actually stopped working before the water turned green. Is it possible this isn't an algae problem, but something else, since the chlorine should have been fine, except for the pump not circulating the water?

  5. #5

    Re: Need some help

    Oh, c/p from original: We have a round 18' easy set pool with an inflatable ring. We have a Intex 56633EG 2500-Gallon Filter Pump AC 110 to 120-Volt pump/filter system.

    My understanding is that this size pool is about 7600 gallons. Thanks for any help!!!

  6. #6

    Re: Need some help

    Update: In the last 9 hours we've put 15 lbs of powdered shock and about 6 gallons of liquid shock in the pool, and we now have a pastel mint-green color! This is a big improvement, but the sun will be coming up soon, so time will tell. The plan is to brush/vacuum and maintain the chlorine levels throughout the day as best as we can, and hopefully be able to borrow a pool test kit from someone local to get a better idea about what's actually happening.

    I know our pool is smaller than a lot of people here, but it's meaningful to our family, so I am grateful for whatever advice I can get! Thanks, and hopefully we'll have some meaningful test results in a few hours!

  7. #7
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Need some help

    What is the ingredient in the powder "shock"you are using? There is a chance you are doing more harm than good if it is dichlor. That will raise your stabilizer level and if it gets too high, the only solution is water replacement to lower it.

    You are correct that your pool is right on the edge of when we might recommend a drain and refill. And depending on your actual levels after all the powder, that may soon be your only option.

    Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, Dolphin Diagnostic Robotic Cleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Gone: Hayward RS1500 pump, undersized DIY solar heater, Dolphin Dynamic Robotic Cleaner
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL

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