milky water that will not go away

Jan 3, 2010
102
Claremont california
Hello friends,

After coming back from a long job assignment of two month, I found my the pool green.
I have been shocking the pool with 3 powder plus packages http://www.lesliespool.com/Home/Pool-Ch ... 14676.html
When the pool stayed milky or cloudy, I used target’s brand chlorine and raised it to 15 due to my cya level of 30. After two days of none stop pump circulation the water still milky. D.E. Filter has been back washed two times and no green is coming out. I get some white water that leaves d.e. stains on the cement where the water sat.
Please help me get my clear water again.

The details about my pool: PLASTER 30K NONE SALT WATER POOL IN GROUND /PH 7.4 CYA 30/CURRENT FC 15/ ESTIMATED WATER VOLUME IN POOL IS ABOUT 28K GALLONS. D.E. filter correct size for my pool volume.
I thank you so much for any advice,
George from Claremont California.
 
It's not uncommon for a filter to take several days to clear a cloudy pool once it's been shocked. Most likely if you keep it at shock level, keep filtering, and brush as much as you can the cloudiness will disappear within a week or so.

One possible complication might be calcium clouding (being in So Cal). We can easily rule that out with a Calcium hardness number and a TA number. If you have those numbers let us know so we can check it off the list.
 
How often are you backwashing the filter? A DE filter should give noticeable improvement everyday.

You should only backwash when the filter pressure goes up 20-25% of the clean pressure (after you have added the DE). And on DE recharges, you should probably only add about 80% of the normal DE amount as backwashing does not get everything out of the filter.

When was the last time you completely opened up the filter and took it apart for a good cleaning?
 
RobbieH said:
And just so you know, that Power Powder is going to keep adding to your calcium hardness. Most likely the cloudiness is the dead algae. But, it might be also calcium clouding like was stated before. Incorrect pH can contribute to this.

Are you sure you are done with the shock process?
pool-school/shocking_your_pool


Hi, and thanks for your help. My current ph is 7.4. All of the other chemicals are all in the green. I think that I might have a leak on the d.e. filter's mesh because I am getting a lot of d.e at the bottom of the pool.

Please advice,
G.
 
If your pool went green, then cloudy - It's most likely dead algae collecting at the bottom of the pool. I would just keep at it with the shock process, vacuum out the algae dust and have a little POP (Pool Owner Patience)

It is really important to follow the shock process all the way through to the end. If you kill 90% of the algae and then let it grow back - you never really get anywhere.

How's the water looking?
 
We really cannot give the best advice without a complete set of test results.
Saying that the numbers are all in the 'green' doesn't help with a diagnosis :wink: . We need to see the following:

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

I know that you gave some of the #'s, but having all of the needed numbers in one set is helpful.
 
Butterfly said:
We really cannot give the best advice without a complete set of test results.
Saying that the numbers are all in the 'green' doesn't help with a diagnosis :wink: . We need to see the following:

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

I know that you gave some of the #'s, but having all of the needed numbers in one set is helpful.


Yes!

The following are the info. I got from my pool store. I also double checked with my testing kit.

FC 1
CC 1
pH 7.4
TA 80
CH 230
CYA 35


Whater is improving in clarity a little bit just a touch. I also noticed Vent tube screen cap is missing. part # 073691 - # 23 ( little filter that sits at the top of holding wheel) In the past, when I had some d.e. at the bottom of the pool the water was clear. This is not the case. I have both d.e. at the bottom of the pool and milky water.

Please help,
George
 
What test kit do you have? We are more interested in your numbers not the pool stores ... they tend to be inaccurate and not repeatable.

If this numbers are correct, your FC is clearly too low for your CYA level. Your shock level is 16ppm for FC. Likely the pool store can not test above 5 or 10ppm.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 

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jblizzle said:
What test kit do you have? We are more interested in your numbers not the pool stores ... they tend to be inaccurate and not repeatable.

If this numbers are correct, your FC is clearly too low for your CYA level. Your shock level is 16ppm for FC. Likely the pool store can not test above 5 or 10ppm.

Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)

Hi, and thanks for helping!
My testing kit is a taylor k2005-c big sucker. Also I purchased a high chlorine dpd test from this website. I will keep the shock level asap.

I will keep you guys posted. Thanks again.

George
 
Are you sure it is DE and not just dead algae?

If so you should inspect your filter grids for holes and the seals in the backwash valve.



Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)
 
jblizzle said:
Are you sure it is DE and not just dead algae?

If so you should inspect your filter grids for holes and the seals in the backwash valve.



Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short ;)

It is a combo of the two? Inspected grids twice (my self and pool supply manager) However, I will be replacing BROKEN backwash valve seal and the two o-rings on my pentair 4000 seriers filter. I will install the seal tomorrow as soon it comes in.

I will keep you posted.
George
 
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