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Thread: Help with identification and removal

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    Help with identification and removal

    Hey guys our pool has been driving us crazy. My dad has shocked and done everything he's thought of and we're still at this point.


    full size: http://i.imgur.com/yFhZg.jpg


    full size: http://i.imgur.com/a9x7m.jpg


    image is blurry so you won't see it any better blown up

    close up of the algae on the hose:

    full size: http://i.imgur.com/uTe2L.jpg

    Right now, the only way to get rid of it has been to scrub it with chlorine tabs.
    Any suggestions? I'll give you a reading of the chemicals tomorrow but it has been like this with perfect levels in the past.

    Thanks a lot guys
    12k gallons
    cartridge filter
    in ground, pebble

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    In the Industry

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    Re: Help with identification and removal

    You have been struck with the dreaded Black Algae. One of the hardest to get rid of. it has a thick exoskeleton that MUST be removed in order for shock to do it's job and kill it. Hence when you scrape it with a chlorine stick it goes away. I recommend you get a stainless steel brush and scrub scrub scrub & scrub until you can't scrub anymore. Then SUPER SUPER Shock your pool. You might end up having to use an algaecide for black algae. It contains metal usually copper or silver. So be sure to follow up treatment with a metal remover. And follow directions on algaecide regarding shocking the pool afterwords. If you don't remove the metals & shock the pool it can release them into the water & possibly turn your walls green from the copper.

    Also FYI. When you do shock pool. Anything that has come in contact with the water recently, Hoses, net, pole, floats, etc. Place them in the pool too. The last thing you want to do is get rid of the algae & place something that has been "infected" back in the pool & BOOM, you're back where you started.
    "When your pool is sick, call the doctor, I make house calls"
    One stop pool shop, I do everything but install them. 9+ years of experience.

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Re: Help with identification and removal

    I'm not so sure it is black algae. That looks green to me. I think we need to see some water test data. I am suspecting that this pool has either very high CYA or very low, much more likely very high.

    I am suspicious of the term "perfect levels" since far too many pool stores think that CYA (stabilizer) levels of 100+ are fine when chlorine is at 2 ppm.

    Please get test data to include Free Chlorine and Combined Chlorine, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, pH, and Cyanuric Acid levels. We also want to know details of how chlorine is maintained in this pool, and details about the pool itself.
    23,000 gallon in ground pool with rock waterfall and spillover spa, Aqualink control system, Polaris 380 cleaner, Purex Triton Clean&Clear Plus cartridge filter. Located in The Woodlands, Texas.

    Pool owner since Nov 2008, Trouble Free since April 2009. Happy to help when I can.

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    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
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    Re: Help with identification and removal

    I have to disagree with some of the above advice. There is no such thing as super super shocking ... follow the shock process using the recommended FC levels for your CYA level. If you raise the FC too high, you can damage the pool and equipment.

    Also do not use any algaecide before the shock process, especially any that contain metal like copper. For that matter you should never need it, if you maintain the proper FC levels.

    Read Pool School. Order a good test kit. And then follow the shock process with a lot of scrubbing.

    Ask any questions as they come up.

    Posted from my Droid with Tapatalk ... sorry if my response is short
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
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  5. Back To Top    #5

    Re: Help with identification and removal

    Quote Originally Posted by AquaDoctorLLC
    You have been struck with the dreaded Black Algae. One of the hardest to get rid of. it has a thick exoskeleton that MUST be removed in order for shock to do it's job and kill it. Hence when you scrape it with a chlorine stick it goes away. I recommend you get a stainless steel brush and scrub scrub scrub & scrub until you can't scrub anymore. Then SUPER SUPER Shock your pool. You might end up having to use an algaecide for black algae. It contains metal usually copper or silver. So be sure to follow up treatment with a metal remover. And follow directions on algaecide regarding shocking the pool afterwords. If you don't remove the metals & shock the pool it can release them into the water & possibly turn your walls green from the copper.

    Also FYI. When you do shock pool. Anything that has come in contact with the water recently, Hoses, net, pole, floats, etc. Place them in the pool too. The last thing you want to do is get rid of the algae & place something that has been "infected" back in the pool & BOOM, you're back where you started.
    I have scraped it to **** and back and those are the results. I've scraped so much I thought the walls were stained until I used the chlorine tab. Thanks for the info, i'll record that.
    12k gallons
    cartridge filter
    in ground, pebble

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    Re: Help with identification and removal

    Quote Originally Posted by anonapersona
    I'm not so sure it is black algae. That looks green to me. I think we need to see some water test data. I am suspecting that this pool has either very high CYA or very low, much more likely very high.

    I am suspicious of the term "perfect levels" since far too many pool stores think that CYA (stabilizer) levels of 100+ are fine when chlorine is at 2 ppm.

    Please get test data to include Free Chlorine and Combined Chlorine, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, pH, and Cyanuric Acid levels. We also want to know details of how chlorine is maintained in this pool, and details about the pool itself.
    It is very green but Im not sure I've seen black algae.
    I assume to get those tests I should just take a sample to the pool store.
    I'll take pics of the filter and pump tomorrow. I think the pool is around 12k gallons.
    12k gallons
    cartridge filter
    in ground, pebble

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    techguy's Avatar
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    Re: Help with identification and removal

    The problem with taking it to the store is you don't know if they are dead on or +/- 100%. I have read of CYA values from the store come in at 112 and the owner uses a TF100 and measures a 30. I have also heard, in person, of a person having a CYA of 90 and he sales person recommended more CYA, as they have a "little room" for more.

    You need testing using drop or reagents and not some vendor computer offering vendor suggestions of phosphate removers and all-in-one solutions and kits.

    Chlorines,aka bleach, will kill off that algae if used in the correct manner.
    -- Guy --
    10K gallons in 21' Round 52 inch wall Aqualeader AG, Hayward Power Flow LX 1.5 HP pump motor, Hayward Perflex EC50AC DE filter w/Cellulose, Wide mouth skimmer, 2013 new Diver Dan (craigslist) to replace the faded old Hayward AquaBug. TF-100

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    Swampwoman's Avatar
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    Re: Help with identification and removal

    Hi there. Since you're new here, let me explain that shock is a process that requires specific steps and a bit of sustained attention and frequent accurate readings from a drop kit test to produce the kinds of results you need. Please read up on it in the link in the pool school section, get a kit, and post a full set of numbers/test results. Then we can guide you through the process of first getting rid of the algae, and secondly, ensuring it does not happen again.

    The fas/drop kit is necessary because other types of kits will not read high chlorine values needed to properly shock and conquer algae -- and around here, we believe that you want to accurately dose pools so that they behave predictably Also, just a heads up that if you go somewhere like leslie's, they might say they have the proper test kit (eg Taylor 2006 is correct, 2005 is not) but not actually have it, so you're better off ordering the one from tftestkits.net.

    While you're awaiting a kit, you can use pool store water read as a rough guideline to get the chlorine up to shock level, so do post those numbers...but you'll want to confirm the cya reading as soon as your kit comes in, because properly shocking a pool is wholly related to how much cya you have in the pool -- cya levels both protect chlorine from being eaten by the sun but simultaneously reduce the sanitizing capability -- which is why you can't accurately shock until you know the cya level and confirm it. Otherwise, the algae just keeps outrunning you, which sounds like what is happening in your case! You want to stop it dead and shorten the fight -- eg bring a gun to the knife fight...but you also don't want to destroy you equipment or cause other unintended consequences by blindly adding way more bleach than you need without knowing what level you're
    at. While you're fighting the algae, the chlorine you add could be used up in a few hours beyond effective kill rate, and if you don't have a test kit that can record free chlorine at say 20 ppm, you'd never know you were about to go backwards again.

    Hope that makes sense. Read the part of pool school about combatting algae and let us know your numbers!

    Welcome to TFP, and good luck!
    (p s I recovered a foreclosed swamp this year, and I can tell you I would have saved myself 770 right off the bat had I found ths site and just wrapped my head around pool school about a week earlier than I did -- and after that 770-worth of abor, the pool was still back and not holding chlorine at all. I saved myself at least
    another 1500 by reading pool school and understanding what it would take, so BBB is my new friend
    In ground extended Grecian, 22,000 gal, Hayward 220t sand filter, vinyl liner, dolphin m4 supreme.
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  9. Back To Top    #9

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    Re: Help with identification and removal

    Arizona,

    Simply put, your pool suffers from inadequate chlorine....it's that simple. Ridding yourself of the algae is a bit more complex and will require that you learn some more about pool water chemistry and how to correctly shock the pool. As mentioned above, using the pool store to help you almost always results in confusion, delay and, often, failure.

    Pool School is the place to start. You will find it a virtual requirement to do your own testing.
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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