SWCG Install

[phipsi1237]

I have 2 other topics posted about equipment and quotes. The installer looked at my heater and didn't say much about the placement of the cell, as if there's plenty of room. I'm posting a pic of the area around the heater due to what the install manual says for the IC-40.

"The ICEG should be no closer than three (3) feet away from the heater outlet. For best flow sensing, provide at least 12"-18" of straight pipe in front of the cell inlet."

I'm just curious as to if this is possible. Is it worth running an extra several feet I pipe to ensure it meets these guidelines. I'd just like an idea of the best way to do it so that I can present it to him. I'm afraid if I don't, he'll just slap it in.

On another note, there is no heater bypass. My understanding is all the water flows through the heater. The installer said it was better that way. Is that true, even with an SWCG?

Thanks for all the help. I'll be upgrading to platinum very soon. The information provided on this site is invaluable!!!!!

[attachment=0:h1eeomhd]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1343703814.611918.jpg[/attachment:h1eeomhd]

 

[AquaDoctorLLC]

Since Cell goes after the heater. I don't see any other way to install it to meet guidelines except running a new pipe. That's a tight fit. IMPO the heater is too close to the back wall (North in this picture) Guidelines for all the heaters I've seen state minimum of 12-18"

As far as the bypass valves. I never install a heater without one. I just don't see the need to run water through a heater when it's not in use. My customers normally heat their pools for a week to knock the chill off then turn them off. Obviously the pools with hot tubs run them.

 

[phipsi1237]

The North wall is over 15 inches from the heater (must be the angle of the picture). The East wall (with the pipes) is about 17 1/2 inches from the heater. I know it's a tight fit. I just didn't know if it would be better for him to just cram the cell in there somewhere without meeting the guidelines in the manual. Or should he run the pipes where ever he needs to in order to get the minimums from the manual.

For the bypass, we do have a spa, and we don't close the pool in the winter (Vegas). So, we will probably heat the pool several times this winter as well. Should I ask him to put a bypass put in? I figured since I'm switching to salt, I don't want any more water going through the heater than needed.

EDIT: I guess another option would be to move the heater to the West. There's plenty of room there. We'd just have to put another pad down and extend the electrical and gas connection a bit. Thoughts?

Thanks again.

Bill

 

[AquaDoctorLLC]

PVC pipe is cheaper then pouring a pad, gas & electrical lines. Since the tech has to cut out the pipe to install the SWG, I'd go ahead and have them install the bypass valves while he has it all apart.

You shouldn't have to move the heater. if you have room to the west. You can actually flip the heat exchanger on most heaters so the inlet/outlet would move from the east to the west. That would allow him to possibly free up enough room to go behind the heater and still use your existing return line. If not, they should be able to around behind the heater. Ask them to put the cell as close to the brick wall as possible to avoid possible damage from the heat of the heater.

 

[phipsi1237]

I think they're going to add a new pad anyway. The current pad is for the pump and filter is 2'x3' (I think). I'm getting an IntellipH, so he said something about adding a new pad beside the other. Apparently, these pads aren't poured. They're prebuilt and just put in. The heater is on a separate pad. However, to move the heater back, the left side of the heater would be on the new pad and the right side would be on the current pad.

The heater does have the option to move the intake and outlet to the left side. The wiring for the the pressure switches etc, would have to be extended. The intake pipe could be routed around the front of the heater. The outlet could be routed behind the heater against the back wall.

What would be the best option? If I put the plumbing on the other side, that will extend my intake piping and outlet instead of just the outlet? More thoughts please!!

Thanks,

Bill

 

[Qwaxalot]

I think I'd be inclined to flip the heat exchanger. I'd also want to be sure there was room to service the cell ie not tucked down between the heater and the wall. There also should be a check valve between the heater and the cell. And, I agree a hea,ter bypass, even if rarely used, is very nice to have.

 

[phipsi1237]

Wouldn't the bypass valve need an actuator too? I'm not really familiar with them. I only know about them from reading the manual.

 

[AquaDoctorLLC]

Wouldn't the bypass valve need an actuator too? I'm not really familiar with them. I only know about them from reading the manual.

Since you're wouldn't be turning the bypass valve but once. During winter to use spa. I'd just leave it manual.

 

[phipsi1237]

So.... If I use the spa year round (avg once week in summer), you'd go with the actuator for the bypass. I'm kinda leaning towards not worrying about the bypass?

Thanks for all the input. I love this site!!

 

[ping]

This picture does not show the final return to the pool does it? You should have some valves that control the return water to the pool and/or spa after the heater. This area that would be my spot to install the cell.

 

[Qwaxalot]

So.... If I use the spa year round (avg once week in summer), you'd go with the actuator for the bypass. I'm kinda leaning towards not worrying about the bypass?

Thanks for all the input. I love this site!!

I really would advise against an actuator on a bypass. You'll forget and bypass the heater while it's on and won't like the results.

The only reason for a bypass is when you're not going to use the heater for an extended time, or you don't want pool water going through the heater for some reason.