Shock process
- Thread starter xiaobulu
- Start date
xiaobulu:
Yes, I would leave pump on for the entire shock process. Just keep an eye on filter pressure and clean/backwash as needed.
Yes, I would leave pump on for the entire shock process. Just keep an eye on filter pressure and clean/backwash as needed.
BoDarville said:
BoDarville: thank you for your response! My pool passed the 3 tests within 24 hours. Just to be safe, I am shocking it to algae killing level for another 24 hours. The pump is working fine. Pressure did not go up much. Do I need to clean it any way?
No need to clean the filter unless you need to. Sounds like you had a very mild case of algae - so the impact on the filter isn't going to be anything like what you see in the more extreme cases.
Since it's mostly fresh water now and the old water wasn't green, I didn't think it would take long to kill the algae on the walls and around the skimmers. Nor would the filter clog with dead algae.
So...post us some numbers and some pictures of how clear the water is!
Keep the pH low and work the scaley areas over with the wire brush. It will take a long time to remove it, but it should quickly get smoother to the touch.
So...post us some numbers and some pictures of how clear the water is!
Keep the pH low and work the scaley areas over with the wire brush. It will take a long time to remove it, but it should quickly get smoother to the touch.
Nice, I didn't want to have to clean the filter :-D I yet to learn how to do that.
I didn't think so either. CC is never greater than 0.2 and the water is always clear, actually sparkly after the shock. The little green around the skimmers you spotted were gone in no time. The yellow on the walls and bottom grew a bit during the long refilling process. In retrospect, I should've added chlorine during the refilling. Anyhow, the yellow is much reduced since the "drain and refill" was completed. I have been pouring jugs after jugs of liquid chlorine and brushing diligently.
I've learned a lot these days. You guys are the best!
Richard320 said:
I didn't think so either. CC is never greater than 0.2 and the water is always clear, actually sparkly after the shock. The little green around the skimmers you spotted were gone in no time. The yellow on the walls and bottom grew a bit during the long refilling process. In retrospect, I should've added chlorine during the refilling. Anyhow, the yellow is much reduced since the "drain and refill" was completed. I have been pouring jugs after jugs of liquid chlorine and brushing diligently.
Sure. I can't wait to show off. But at this moment, the FC level is probably too high for me to test the pH accurately. I will test when the FC level is back to normal. By the way, my daughter and I love the test kit. It's so much fun! We tested so many times in the past 2 days that we almost used up all the chlorine reagent that came with the Taylor 2006. Should I stock up with this 16oz bottle? It's cheaper but is it too much?Richard320 said:
Yeah, this is my next task. Although my pool has never looked better before, I become pickier now. The remaining yellowish scaling bothers me greatly. How low a pH is safe? The suggested level is 7.5-7.8. Should I stick to the lower end of this range or go lower?Richard320 said:
I've learned a lot these days. You guys are the best!
[quote="xiaobulu"
Sure. I can't wait to show off. But at this moment, the FC level is probably too high for me to test the pH accurately. I will test when the FC level is back to normal. By the way, my daughter and I love the test kit. It's so much fun! We tested so many times in the past 2 days that we almost used up all the chlorine reagent that came with the Taylor 2006. Should I stock up with this 16oz bottle? It's cheaper but is it too much?
[/quote]
I have read where it says to replace your reagents each year, but I decided to buy the 16 oz bottle anyway. It is so much cheaper per ounce, I couldn't justify buying only .75 oz. I guess I will find out next year if it is still good. I'll just give you a tip: It is cheaper to buy direct through Amato than it is through Amazon.
Sure. I can't wait to show off. But at this moment, the FC level is probably too high for me to test the pH accurately. I will test when the FC level is back to normal. By the way, my daughter and I love the test kit. It's so much fun! We tested so many times in the past 2 days that we almost used up all the chlorine reagent that came with the Taylor 2006. Should I stock up with this 16oz bottle? It's cheaper but is it too much?
[/quote]
I have read where it says to replace your reagents each year, but I decided to buy the 16 oz bottle anyway. It is so much cheaper per ounce, I couldn't justify buying only .75 oz. I guess I will find out next year if it is still good. I'll just give you a tip: It is cheaper to buy direct through Amato than it is through Amazon.
Also some of the reagents are cheaper from tftestkits.net ... although Dave does not sell the huge 16oz bottles (that is a LOT of testing and hope it does not go bad on you).
I have it stored in a cool, dark cabinet, so it should last a while. Is there any way to test these reagents, to know if they are bad? I guess if I find out that it is bad, I will just order the .75 oz bottles from now on.
This tells you how to tell when they go bad:
extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html
If you keep it in the closet it should be good for at least a year, but that quantity is probably enough for at least 5 years (if you do not have to shock the pool) and that may be pushing it. There are also 2oz bottles that work well.
extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html
If you keep it in the closet it should be good for at least a year, but that quantity is probably enough for at least 5 years (if you do not have to shock the pool) and that may be pushing it. There are also 2oz bottles that work well.
5 years? That's too much. I will probably order the 2oz bottle. Thanks for all your inputs.
jblizzle said:
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