Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Shock process

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Riverside, CA
    Posts
    51

    Shock process

    Should I leave the pump on for the entire shock process? Thank you!
    20,000 gallons, IG plaster, probably built in the 80's.
    Filter: Hayward Pro-Grid DE6020, 120 GPM.
    Pump: Magnetek century E-plus, Purex Triton Whisperflow, WFE-4C, 1HP.
    Fountain booster: Century Centurion A O Smith, CAT B848, 1HP.
    Spa booster: G.E. Jacuzzi pump
    Heater: Raypak RP2100 Digital, Low Nox

  2. Back To Top    #2
    BoDarville's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    DFW, Texas
    Posts
    3,840

    Re: Shock process

    xiaobulu:

    Yes, I would leave pump on for the entire shock process. Just keep an eye on filter pressure and clean/backwash as needed.
    Gold Supporter, TFP Lifetime Supporter, 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
    A good test kit is an investment, not an expense.

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Riverside, CA
    Posts
    51

    Re: Shock process

    Quote Originally Posted by BoDarville
    xiaobulu:

    Yes, I would leave pump on for the entire shock process. Just keep an eye on filter pressure and clean/backwash as needed.
    BoDarville: thank you for your response! My pool passed the 3 tests within 24 hours. Just to be safe, I am shocking it to algae killing level for another 24 hours. The pump is working fine. Pressure did not go up much. Do I need to clean it any way?
    20,000 gallons, IG plaster, probably built in the 80's.
    Filter: Hayward Pro-Grid DE6020, 120 GPM.
    Pump: Magnetek century E-plus, Purex Triton Whisperflow, WFE-4C, 1HP.
    Fountain booster: Century Centurion A O Smith, CAT B848, 1HP.
    Spa booster: G.E. Jacuzzi pump
    Heater: Raypak RP2100 Digital, Low Nox

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Glendale, CA
    Posts
    513

    Re: Shock process

    No need to clean the filter unless you need to. Sounds like you had a very mild case of algae - so the impact on the filter isn't going to be anything like what you see in the more extreme cases.
    16K Gal Plaster | Compupool SWG | Intelliflow VF | TF-100

  5. Back To Top    #5
    Richard320's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    San Dimas, CA (LA County)
    Posts
    18,768

    Re: Shock process

    Since it's mostly fresh water now and the old water wasn't green, I didn't think it would take long to kill the algae on the walls and around the skimmers. Nor would the filter clog with dead algae.

    So...post us some numbers and some pictures of how clear the water is!

    Keep the pH low and work the scaley areas over with the wire brush. It will take a long time to remove it, but it should quickly get smoother to the touch.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Riverside, CA
    Posts
    51

    Re: Shock process

    Nice, I didn't want to have to clean the filter I yet to learn how to do that.

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard320
    Since it's mostly fresh water now and the old water wasn't green, I didn't think it would take long to kill the algae on the walls and around the skimmers. Nor would the filter clog with dead algae.
    I didn't think so either. CC is never greater than 0.2 and the water is always clear, actually sparkly after the shock. The little green around the skimmers you spotted were gone in no time. The yellow on the walls and bottom grew a bit during the long refilling process. In retrospect, I should've added chlorine during the refilling. Anyhow, the yellow is much reduced since the "drain and refill" was completed. I have been pouring jugs after jugs of liquid chlorine and brushing diligently.

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard320
    So...post us some numbers and some pictures of how clear the water is!
    Sure. I can't wait to show off. But at this moment, the FC level is probably too high for me to test the pH accurately. I will test when the FC level is back to normal. By the way, my daughter and I love the test kit. It's so much fun! We tested so many times in the past 2 days that we almost used up all the chlorine reagent that came with the Taylor 2006. Should I stock up with this 16oz bottle? It's cheaper but is it too much?

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard320
    Keep the pH low and work the scaley areas over with the wire brush. It will take a long time to remove it, but it should quickly get smoother to the touch.
    Yeah, this is my next task. Although my pool has never looked better before, I become pickier now. The remaining yellowish scaling bothers me greatly. How low a pH is safe? The suggested level is 7.5-7.8. Should I stick to the lower end of this range or go lower?

    I've learned a lot these days. You guys are the best!
    20,000 gallons, IG plaster, probably built in the 80's.
    Filter: Hayward Pro-Grid DE6020, 120 GPM.
    Pump: Magnetek century E-plus, Purex Triton Whisperflow, WFE-4C, 1HP.
    Fountain booster: Century Centurion A O Smith, CAT B848, 1HP.
    Spa booster: G.E. Jacuzzi pump
    Heater: Raypak RP2100 Digital, Low Nox

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Howell, NJ
    Posts
    977

    Re: Shock process

    Quote Originally Posted by "xiaobulu"
    Sure. I can't wait to show off. But at this moment, the FC level is probably too high for me to test the pH accurately. I will test when the FC level is back to normal. By the way, my daughter and I love the test kit. It's so much fun! We tested so many times in the past 2 days that we almost used up all the chlorine reagent that came with the Taylor 2006. Should I stock up with [url=http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-FAS-DPD-Titrating-Chlorine-R-0871-E/dp/B004BGT62M/ref=lh_ni_t
    this[/url] 16oz bottle? It's cheaper but is it too much?
    I have read where it says to replace your reagents each year, but I decided to buy the 16 oz bottle anyway. It is so much cheaper per ounce, I couldn't justify buying only .75 oz. I guess I will find out next year if it is still good. I'll just give you a tip: It is cheaper to buy direct through Amato than it is through Amazon.
    John
    7 year old ~13,500 gal 24' AGP with 1.5 hp Proline pump, 150 sqft Pleatco cartridge, filled with well water with pH of about 4.5.
    Wanda the Whale pool vacuum, home made heater, Taylor K-2006
    Cloudy Pool? 1) Order test kit. 2) Follow SLAM
    New to TFPC? Read Pool School a few times, then post questions. PoolMath will help with chemical additions.

  8. Back To Top    #8
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    37,389

    Re: Shock process

    Also some of the reagents are cheaper from tftestkits.net ... although Dave does not sell the huge 16oz bottles (that is a LOT of testing and hope it does not go bad on you).
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  9. Back To Top    #9

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Howell, NJ
    Posts
    977

    Re: Shock process

    I have it stored in a cool, dark cabinet, so it should last a while. Is there any way to test these reagents, to know if they are bad? I guess if I find out that it is bad, I will just order the .75 oz bottles from now on.
    John
    7 year old ~13,500 gal 24' AGP with 1.5 hp Proline pump, 150 sqft Pleatco cartridge, filled with well water with pH of about 4.5.
    Wanda the Whale pool vacuum, home made heater, Taylor K-2006
    Cloudy Pool? 1) Order test kit. 2) Follow SLAM
    New to TFPC? Read Pool School a few times, then post questions. PoolMath will help with chemical additions.

  10. Back To Top    #10
    Mod Squad jblizzle's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    37,389

    Re: Shock process

    This tells you how to tell when they go bad:
    extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html

    If you keep it in the closet it should be good for at least a year, but that quantity is probably enough for at least 5 years (if you do not have to shock the pool) and that may be pushing it. There are also 2oz bottles that work well.
    Jason, TFP Moderator
    18k IG pebblesheen pool, Hayward ProLogic P4 w/ T-15 SWG, Pentair 1HP 2-speed Superflo, Hayward 6020 DE filter
    500 sqft Heliocol solar panels, ThePoolCleaner, TF-100 test kit w/ SpeedStir
    Pool School + Test Kit + PoolMath = A TROUBLE FREE POOL
    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  11. Back To Top    #11

    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Riverside, CA
    Posts
    51

    Re: Shock process

    5 years? That's too much. I will probably order the 2oz bottle. Thanks for all your inputs.

    Quote Originally Posted by jblizzle
    This tells you how to tell when they go bad:
    extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html

    If you keep it in the closet it should be good for at least a year, but that quantity is probably enough for at least 5 years (if you do not have to shock the pool) and that may be pushing it. There are also 2oz bottles that work well.
    20,000 gallons, IG plaster, probably built in the 80's.
    Filter: Hayward Pro-Grid DE6020, 120 GPM.
    Pump: Magnetek century E-plus, Purex Triton Whisperflow, WFE-4C, 1HP.
    Fountain booster: Century Centurion A O Smith, CAT B848, 1HP.
    Spa booster: G.E. Jacuzzi pump
    Heater: Raypak RP2100 Digital, Low Nox

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •