HIGH TDS [Oops...starting over] Drained - refilled

[lweljwel]

#1 Sorry, don't have Chemical results prior to Drain. Drained 4/5ths [unintentionally!]

#2 Ready to start up, water full. Doesn't look as blue as I expected and On prior "refills" [???]

#3 Was intollerably "salty" tasting prior to drain; but otherwise, no negative effects. Only out of range test was
continual high chlorine with no salt added. [SWG System].

#4 I can do tests at home. Not sure the "standards" I have include TDS and "Stableization" may be the other test.

#5 I do have two 10 oz bags of "Shock" I can add if that is appropriate as starter until readings and plan is prepared.

#6 Should I buy special testing kit to check for TDS and "stableization" as suggested by Pool Store?

#7 In Las Vegas--it has been 108 to 110 recently. Water very warm!

#8 I am confidient I can do what is needed, if I know what tests to run. I hope I didn't drain the pool unnecessarily.
The "salt" taste was pretty offensive, but, as I said, no effect to skin or eyes.

#9 ANY Suggestion to remove the built-up scale along the tile line. That kind of snuck up. Calcium I suppose.
I don't like the chemical/acid solution, and the stone----well----ouch! What ever works most efficient with least
side effects [ie chemical, etc, in water]. Is there a "power sprayer" device that sprays, ???, sandy "stuff". [Safely; efficiently and without damage or
destructive debris to pool water]. I could rent or buy one?

You all have been WONDERFUL!!!!!!!!!!!!! I can't say thank you enough for the help!

Oh, I suppose I need to buy some bags of salt? I really don't understand the "buying salt" thing. I am told that chlorine
generates automatically from the sun (I think).

Is there a simple explanation for the extreme salt taste? Is there any possibility I didn't need to drain a portion of the water?

OH! Thank you.

PS I can post the "standard" test results from the "basic" testing devices I have available.

Lynn

 

[JasonLion]

You can ignore TDS, there is no point in testing TDS as it has no impact on the pool. What is important is knowing FC, CC, PH, TA, CH, CYA, Salt, and optionally Borates (if you use them).

The place to start is with a complete set of water test results. You need to know where your various levels ended up before you can know what to adjust. In addition to measuring everything for the pool, you should also measure TA and CH for your fill water.

Using a dilute acid mixture is by far the safest and most efficient way of removing scale. You can also use a bead blaster, but that requires special equipment and is a project to clean up after.

A SWG turns salt in the water into chlorine. As the chlorine gets used up it turns back into salt. For the SWG to work correctly there needs to be some salt in the water for it to act on. You need to measure your current salt level before adding more.

 

[lweljwel]

Must STOP hitting enter!!!

Thank you for the incredibly quick and detailed response:

With nothing added EXCEPT the 1/5th of pool water remaining after drain: 21000 gals overall

DIP STICK TEST:

Ph 7.8 (yikes?)

Free Chlorine 0

Alkaline 120

Stablizers 30-50

WATER/CHEM ADDED TEST:

Cl 0

Br 0

Ph 8.2 (?)

Should I buy a more detailed test kit and do some more testing?

I have never used Borax. The calcium in this water is horrible.

I have attached some pictures after 3 applications of acid and after 12 applications.
I don't like the chemicals?

 

[Richard320]

The single best investment you can make is a proper test kit. You can read the article in Pool School or just fast forward and go to http://tftestkits.net and order a TF100. You might want to add a speedstir as well, nobody who has one regrets it. And maybe the CYA standard solution. It will help you do the CYA test by being able to see exactly what 50ppm will look like. And no, I am not affiliated with them, nor do I get a referral.

Armed with facts (that's the test kit!), a little knowledge from Pool School, and the poolcalculator, you can have the water balanced and crystal clear in a matter of days, if not hours. And from then on, it's a couple minutes a day except when you vacuum. Even then, unless your pool is surrounded by trees or something extreme, you may only spend an hour a week total on maintenance. And your pool will be the envy of all who see it.

 

[JasonLion]

Bring the PH down to around 7.5 and get some chlorine in the water right away.

 

[lweljwel]

Jason Lion AND Richard 320:


THANK YOU!!!! Will do!



Lynn

 

[duraleigh]

The "looks like rust" pic looks like algae to me. Reemphasizing the need for adequate chlorine in your pool after you get the pH correct.

 

[lweljwel]

Duraleigh: Question:

Does "add chlorine right away" mean:

1) Add salt [SWG system]

2) Add tablets [dumb question, I have done that in the floats]

3) Add some shock! BUT My daughter and grandson are wanting to swim today.

I want to do what is right! And not hurt the two loves of my life!!!!!!

I cannot possibly thank you enough!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Nanna draining and maintaining pool in 108 degree temp!]

 

[Richard320]

Add liquid shock aka chlorox. It will mix quickly and you'll have FC NOW. Assuming the water's clear, the pH is in the comfort zone, and you just added adequate FC, they can get in and help you mix things even better.

As for salt.. scroll down until you see the highlighted part