results from tf-100 kit: what to do next

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J

jk1976

0
Jul 26, 2012
20
30,000 gallon plaster pool with de filter

PH: 7.2
FC: 10
CC = 34
TA = 150
CYA = 20

What next? I guess to add stabilizer to increase CYA??
Is it safe to swim with high CC level?
Also, I see some pink stuff in spots.
Help is much appreciated!
 
Welcome to TFP.

How are you testing?
Do not add any CYA until you pass the shock process.

How did the FC get that high? What have you been adding to the pool?
What does the water look like?

I wouldn't recommend anyone swimming in water with that much CC.
 
we've been adding about 5 gallons of liquid chlorine each day to fight a bad algea problem. Pool has improved from green to light teal color. we also use 3 inch tabs in chlorinator. i guess we should stop adding liquid chlorine?!
 
Being new to the kit ... any chance you want to describe how you did the FC and CC FAS-DPD test? Those are some serious CC #s and perhaps we should make sure the test was done correctly.
 
Should I stop all chlorine at this time (both liquid and tab) until numbers come down.
Yes, we were dumping in 5 gallons of liquid chlorine each night to fight algea.
Jason, I followed stes on the white card for dpd. Perhaps i should do it again since numbers are so high?
 
You can't stop adding the chlorine. What you need to do is maintain your chlorine at shock level, which means you need to add chlorine frequently, perhaps every hour at the beginning of the shock process. If your CYA level is 20 you need to raise your FC level to 10. Take another reading an hour later and bring it back up to 10. I'm doubtful of your CC reading of 34. Is your pool covered?
 
I was hoping for specifics to see if something was off ... like how much water did you use? how much powder did you use? How many drops did it take for FC and then CC?

It would not be the first time that someone new to the kit used the wrong multiplication factor for the water sample.
 

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Those are still some significant CC numbers ... anything more than 1 drop requires going through the shock process.

First, add enough CYA to get to about 30ppm. Then, start the shock process until you pass the 3 tests to stop.

Note with the high CC values, the FC is going to be consumed VERY quickly to start.

Did you have CYA last year? Did you just open the pool? Do you always have a cover on it?

You are at least a few days (more likely a week +) from the pool being safe to swim in.
 
Was it a new pool or existing pool? The reason I ask is there are some reports of CYA being converted by bacteria into ammonia in closed pools over the winter. This also usually results in showing high CC numbers. Just trying to get a feel if that is what is going on.

In any case, chlorine is the answer.

Technically you are in the shock process if you are maintaining that FC level every hour or so. But, you would likely benefit from adding some CYA to protect the FC or the sun is going to be breaking down a lot of the chlorine you are adding.
 
This is an existing pool that was closed for the winter. WE replaced the fence around the pool and didn't open until end of july (we live in PA).
I have seen spots of pink stuff (I've read this is a bacteria).
For the chlorination/shock process, we've been using 3 inch tabs, plus dumping 5 gallons of liquid chlorine in at night. IS this ok? Should i increase of decrease this?
Or, raise CYA first?
 
Please do yourself a favor and read the pool school link on the top right. Specifically the shocking process under "how to". You will need to maintain your shock number, currently 10 until the criteria is met. This may mean really upping the chlorine level at night so it's not all gone in the morning. If you raise CYA then your shock number will also need to go up, that's listed in the pool calculator on how to get your shock number. If you want this to go relatively quickly you will need to be vigilant on keeping the shock number above 10 for the CYA you currently have.

BTW, welcome to TFP!
 
Hi and welcome to the site!!!! I'm sorta new myself. Just wanted to give you a shout out and say ROCK ON!!!!

Just of note that teal color, that is usually milky looking, is dead algae. It's gross isn't it? Check that water every hour if you can and raise back up to shock level when needed, it's the fastest way!!!! Try to not just add at night, add every hour when you can!!!
 
High CC level

Merged topics to maintain history. Butterfly

I would appreciate some help. WE're new pool owners and struggling with this.

Pool: 30,000 gallons, plaster, in ground, de filter

Using taylor test kit with dpd method:

9:30 pm
1= FC
9 = CC
6.8= Ph
60= CYA
130 = TA

3:30 AM
1 = FC
4 = CC
6.8 = ph

Should I shock again to lower CC level? Increase PH before shocking? Drain water to lower CC (though it's lowering without this? My calculations show that i need to add a LOT of chlorine to hit breaking point. I have tri-chlor shock. Any help is much appreciated!
 

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