NO FLOW always on
- Thread starter rondaspool
- Start date
The problem turned out to be a bad tri-sensor. Unfortunately, Jandy doesn't provide warranty on self-installations. So I probably just spent the money I saved installing it myself. Lesson learned.
Update: sent sensor back to Jandy with instructions to insert it in a bodily orifice that may not be too comfortable. At least I got it off my chest.
THIS WORKED FOR ME! Thanks SO much!!! It isn't clearly marked "calibrate" - its just a tiny little white button on my system (installed Sept 2013). I pressed until it said "flow" Yay!
Great thread, thanks for the info. I had no flow, pushed the little white button for 5-10 seconds and now I have flow so we'll see in a few hours if we have chlorine production.
Wish I would have found this thread before the weekend! I just replaced my flow sensor which solved the No Flow always on issue (and, more importantly, the lack of Cl generation). My previous sensor had a daughterboard and the calibrate button (which I never pushed because I assumed it was a salt calibration button!)
A few notes for those that are replacing your sensor:
(1) definitely buy one from Amazon, Google shopping, or e-bay. They run between $150-190.
(2) make sure you get the correct version for your salt generator - there are at least two versions I encountered: one that fits the older hexagonal (octagonal?) sensor nut (on bottom of salt generator) and one that fits the rounded nut (newer)
(3) installation might be the easiest pool maintenance you ever do - 10 minutes start to finish
(4) for the newer sensor (part #R0452500) it now has two sides of the circle cut off, making it easy to fit through the locking nut. (Without this you would need to string everything through the nut before running it to the control board, which likely you would forget to do)
(5) there is no daughterboard and the instructions are explicit on removing it and not using it
(6) there is an additional device that hangs outside of the control unit with LEDs that show Flow and which firmware version it is using. You set the firmware version with this device after plugging everything in and it matches the correct communication protocol to your control board. It has easy, clear instructions on how to do this.
(7) this was the easiest (surprisingly) pool maintenance I've ever done
as this was a new house (for me), it was clear the previous owners had been running without Cl generation for some time as they kept shocking (with Tri-chlor) and using pucks .... So now I get to deal with very high stabilizer issues.
however, overall I really like the salt system. 40 lb bag of salt is $4 at Home Depot and is 99.7% pure, so I'm minimizing the other solids I'm adding to pool.
Really appreciate ate this forum for helping me come (back) up to speed on all things pool related. I actually worked at a pool store as a teenager, so I can relate to the hype and issues you guys highlight related to pool stores. (They don't do a bad job, they just do a good job for themselves selling very expensive chemicals at 60% margin).
A few notes for those that are replacing your sensor:
(1) definitely buy one from Amazon, Google shopping, or e-bay. They run between $150-190.
(2) make sure you get the correct version for your salt generator - there are at least two versions I encountered: one that fits the older hexagonal (octagonal?) sensor nut (on bottom of salt generator) and one that fits the rounded nut (newer)
(3) installation might be the easiest pool maintenance you ever do - 10 minutes start to finish
(4) for the newer sensor (part #R0452500) it now has two sides of the circle cut off, making it easy to fit through the locking nut. (Without this you would need to string everything through the nut before running it to the control board, which likely you would forget to do)
(5) there is no daughterboard and the instructions are explicit on removing it and not using it
(6) there is an additional device that hangs outside of the control unit with LEDs that show Flow and which firmware version it is using. You set the firmware version with this device after plugging everything in and it matches the correct communication protocol to your control board. It has easy, clear instructions on how to do this.
(7) this was the easiest (surprisingly) pool maintenance I've ever done
as this was a new house (for me), it was clear the previous owners had been running without Cl generation for some time as they kept shocking (with Tri-chlor) and using pucks .... So now I get to deal with very high stabilizer issues.
however, overall I really like the salt system. 40 lb bag of salt is $4 at Home Depot and is 99.7% pure, so I'm minimizing the other solids I'm adding to pool.
Really appreciate ate this forum for helping me come (back) up to speed on all things pool related. I actually worked at a pool store as a teenager, so I can relate to the hype and issues you guys highlight related to pool stores. (They don't do a bad job, they just do a good job for themselves selling very expensive chemicals at 60% margin).
I just wanted to say thank you to all of you for this thread. I had the same problem and was able to hopefully fix it for real this time. The calibration button on the daughter board is the ticket!
p00lhack
0
I have a similar "no flow" issue and am at my wits end. I called 1-800-822-7933 at 1pm EDT and they (Zodiac) are closed.
I had a Nature2 Fusion Soft installed in August 2014 when the pool was re-plastered. AquaPure Model D13RSALG1359 Serial# H0263500C. They did NOT do the electrical. After the pool was closed (October 2014), I wired up the everything but not the 240V. An electrician wired up the 240v on 7/21/2015. The unit has service codes 172 and 181 AND the green flow light is "off." After the salinity was at 3200ppm (confirmed at a local pool store), the unit and the pump ran uninterrupted for > 24hrs and the codes did NOT clear. Here is what I have done so far.
Still the flow light is off and the same error codes appear.
The attached pictures show "test points" on the circuit board, the "mechanical sensor" jumper removed (disabled), and the 3 white buttons that I have held in 1-at-a-time for 10 seconds.
View attachment 40603View attachment 40604
HELP!
7/26/2015:
I saw similar postings in this thread.
Jandy Aqualink tri-sensor adapter
Maybe my posting belongs there
I had a Nature2 Fusion Soft installed in August 2014 when the pool was re-plastered. AquaPure Model D13RSALG1359 Serial# H0263500C. They did NOT do the electrical. After the pool was closed (October 2014), I wired up the everything but not the 240V. An electrician wired up the 240v on 7/21/2015. The unit has service codes 172 and 181 AND the green flow light is "off." After the salinity was at 3200ppm (confirmed at a local pool store), the unit and the pump ran uninterrupted for > 24hrs and the codes did NOT clear. Here is what I have done so far.
- Power cycled the pump/chlorinator several times
- Removed, inspected and restored all connections
- Removed, inspected and restored the chlorinator
- Removed, inspected and restored the salinity/temperature/flow sensor
- Held for 10 seconds the 3 white buttons labelled H-Temp, R-Temp and Salinity.
Still the flow light is off and the same error codes appear.
The attached pictures show "test points" on the circuit board, the "mechanical sensor" jumper removed (disabled), and the 3 white buttons that I have held in 1-at-a-time for 10 seconds.
View attachment 40603View attachment 40604
HELP!
7/26/2015:
I saw similar postings in this thread.
Jandy Aqualink tri-sensor adapter
Maybe my posting belongs there
Last edited:
I would agree that this was an easy do it yourself install. I purchased the same system off ebay recently and installed. I also had the directions to remove the daughter board and have the external device that shows the program and flow status. Had no issues initially but now have the situation that if the system comes on automatically I get "no flow". But if i manually turn it on with the hand held it works. Are there any steps I can take to make this baby start on its own?
i just replaced the flow sensor ($33.70 on amazon!!) and after a few days of questions and diagnostics i discovered tiny arrows on the side and face of the sensor. for me they needed to point down so the water flow was pushing the flexible metal sensor down onto the rigid part of the sensor. 30 seconds later the flow light turned off and the generating light turned on! hallelujah!!
Tiny arrows on the sensor? My sensor is the newer kind with 2 metal discs, on the side port of the cell, and with the little box on the cord. Where are these "tiny arrows" and how should they be positioned?
So, I'd love it if fixing the interminable flow sensor issues were as simple as positioning "tiny arrows" as above. I hope to get a positive answer on that.
In case I don't, I've been thinking of other more creative solutions. My current sensor, six months old, is once again indicating no flow despite over 50gpm and all salt and chemical levels correct, sensor and cell are clean, boards check out fine. I'd love some input from the engineer types out there. How does this sensor work? Is it by flow pressing a disc in by pressure or by mass thermal diffusion? Mass thermal diffusion- where one of the discs is heated and then it measures how long it takes that heat to dissipate against the other disc temp (control) - the faster dissipated, the more the flow. Is that correct? If so, I was thinking of jerry-rigging a little diverter inside the chamber in the sensor part of the cell that diverts stronger flow right at the discs, spoofing them into seeing very strong flow, carrying heat away faster. I know it'll void warranties and to be careful not to mess up the cell or main flow, but it's just an idea to deal with the annoying continual sensor problems I've had over the last few years. Thoughts?
Thanks,
Russ
In case I don't, I've been thinking of other more creative solutions. My current sensor, six months old, is once again indicating no flow despite over 50gpm and all salt and chemical levels correct, sensor and cell are clean, boards check out fine. I'd love some input from the engineer types out there. How does this sensor work? Is it by flow pressing a disc in by pressure or by mass thermal diffusion? Mass thermal diffusion- where one of the discs is heated and then it measures how long it takes that heat to dissipate against the other disc temp (control) - the faster dissipated, the more the flow. Is that correct? If so, I was thinking of jerry-rigging a little diverter inside the chamber in the sensor part of the cell that diverts stronger flow right at the discs, spoofing them into seeing very strong flow, carrying heat away faster. I know it'll void warranties and to be careful not to mess up the cell or main flow, but it's just an idea to deal with the annoying continual sensor problems I've had over the last few years. Thoughts?
Thanks,
Russ
To take care of the first question, the other op has a different brand of SWG. The Hayward AquaRite has the flow sensor with the little arrows.
I've seen on this site how the Jandy sensor determines if there is enough flow, do some searching and you should come by it. I believe it does take a temperature difference on the sensor pads.
I just found this in a troubleshooting manual:
The Sensor determines flow by comparing the temperature differential
between the heated and unheated test pads. Salinity is
measured by the two “silver” test pads. These pads should be
kept clean to insure accuracy.
This applies to the older style of sensor.
I've seen on this site how the Jandy sensor determines if there is enough flow, do some searching and you should come by it. I believe it does take a temperature difference on the sensor pads.
I just found this in a troubleshooting manual:
The Sensor determines flow by comparing the temperature differential
between the heated and unheated test pads. Salinity is
measured by the two “silver” test pads. These pads should be
kept clean to insure accuracy.
This applies to the older style of sensor.
Thanks Ping. I have searched and searched for that information and haven't seen it.
"The Sensor determines flow by comparing the temperature differential
between the heated and unheated test pads. Salinity is
measured by the two “silver” test pads. These pads should be
kept clean to insure accuracy."
Since this new flow sensor only has two pads, both silver, I'll assume they do double duty. I'm going to do a little experiment and remove the flow sensor from the cell and put a plug there. I'll then put it in a bucket of water and turn the system on. I'll check if I find any temperature difference between the pads - which one may be heated. If so, I'll run a hose stream across them and see if I can get it to show flow. Just sitting in the bucket should show no flow as the pads will be different temps in still water. With the stream, the heat should dissipate fast making the pads similar temp, indicating flow. That would be cool if it works - then I could figure out how to spoof it into reading more flow. We'll see. Any other ideas would be welcome.
"The Sensor determines flow by comparing the temperature differential
between the heated and unheated test pads. Salinity is
measured by the two “silver” test pads. These pads should be
kept clean to insure accuracy."
Since this new flow sensor only has two pads, both silver, I'll assume they do double duty. I'm going to do a little experiment and remove the flow sensor from the cell and put a plug there. I'll then put it in a bucket of water and turn the system on. I'll check if I find any temperature difference between the pads - which one may be heated. If so, I'll run a hose stream across them and see if I can get it to show flow. Just sitting in the bucket should show no flow as the pads will be different temps in still water. With the stream, the heat should dissipate fast making the pads similar temp, indicating flow. That would be cool if it works - then I could figure out how to spoof it into reading more flow. We'll see. Any other ideas would be welcome.
Quick question, i have an "older" pool. 2007 i have replaced the sensor a number of times, as well as the cell.
I am getting the flow issue, and just found this thread for the first time. I have a board in the front (main board) and a small board in the back that the power is connected to. Unfortunately i dont see a white calibrate button on either of the boards. I do have three buttons on the top for H-temp, R-Temp and Salinity, which are black.
any thoughts on if there is a calibrate button in my configuration or if that is something that is on newer models. I am inclined to just get another sensor, since i have not replaced one in a couple of years, but would really rather not have to if i can fix it. (this thread has given me a sliver of hope)
Any thoughts would be appreciated?
I am getting the flow issue, and just found this thread for the first time. I have a board in the front (main board) and a small board in the back that the power is connected to. Unfortunately i dont see a white calibrate button on either of the boards. I do have three buttons on the top for H-temp, R-Temp and Salinity, which are black.
any thoughts on if there is a calibrate button in my configuration or if that is something that is on newer models. I am inclined to just get another sensor, since i have not replaced one in a couple of years, but would really rather not have to if i can fix it. (this thread has given me a sliver of hope)
Any thoughts would be appreciated?
From what I've read, that calibrate button is only on the older models. I did not have it on mine.
Updating my question, which may help you- I did my experiment that I mentioned above. One pad was definitely 1-2 degrees warmer than the other (by instant read thermometer). I had the sensor is a bucket of water. Twenty seconds or so after I started pushing water past it with my hand in the bucket, the flow light came on. So, I played around with ways to make the sensor feel "increased" flow across it. Perhaps the turbulence of that side port area in the cell doesn't agree with it. I took a short piece of flexible garden hose and wedged it into the cell so it picks up the direct flow into the cell and aims a stream right at the sensor buttons. It's been 2 weeks and so far, no flow problems. I'm sure having said that, I'll get home later and it'll show no flow. Anyway, so far so good.
Updating my question, which may help you- I did my experiment that I mentioned above. One pad was definitely 1-2 degrees warmer than the other (by instant read thermometer). I had the sensor is a bucket of water. Twenty seconds or so after I started pushing water past it with my hand in the bucket, the flow light came on. So, I played around with ways to make the sensor feel "increased" flow across it. Perhaps the turbulence of that side port area in the cell doesn't agree with it. I took a short piece of flexible garden hose and wedged it into the cell so it picks up the direct flow into the cell and aims a stream right at the sensor buttons. It's been 2 weeks and so far, no flow problems. I'm sure having said that, I'll get home later and it'll show no flow. Anyway, so far so good.
Thanks so much for posting this response. I've replaced just about every part in my Aquapure 1400 system myself including a number of tri-sensors over the years. Until now I have never had this problem of no flow but also no error codes. I recently replaced my tri-sensor and the system would be working fine, and then bam - no flow. One of the best installs has been the iAquaLink upgrade which allows me to monitor my system from my phone anywhere I happen to be.
My system was installed @2006. In this picture you can see the daughter board which is inline from the sensor to the rear board. The flow light that you can see was on but no flow sensed on the LCD display and the flow light off. At the top left of the board you can see the little block with "CAL" written by it. On the left of the block is a small white button that I pressed with the system running for 12 seconds. There was some blinking of the flow light but after about 10 seconds my flow was restored and the cell active again.
The second picture is my status screen from my iPhone.
itsnorm, this absolutely worked for me. So easy too. Thank you for your post. Cheers!!
So i have no idea what you are talking about referring to the "calibration" button. Does not exist that I can find. So probably a different model unless I have truly gone blind.
PCL1400C, Zodiac R0467600 board and the R0467400, the R0467600 has H-temp, L-temp and salinity buttons