Swimming in Green/Cloudy Water

[poolgranny]

Since we have set our pool up in 2007, when opening the pool in the spring (starting in 2008) it has been a swampy green mess. We only covered it one year, and then the cover ripped and it was as bad as not covering it so haven't done it since. It had all kinds of debris, etc. in it. It took awhile to clear it out and we ended up emptying most of the water out. But it is so difficult to get all the water out, that even when refilled it turns into a green swamp minus the dead leaves, debris, etc (as much as possible). We start shocking (without really knowing numbers etc. as I have always used strips) and putting in recommended chemicals from pool store.

We have used the pool with the greenish water, cloudy water in the afternoons. I figure if we can swim in our lakes, creeks, etc. with algae and who knows what else it can't be much different.

I plan on getting the 100 test kit, probably next month (teachers get paid once a month around here). I anticipate a better opening next year as I plan on ordering a new winter cover and trying the forums closing section in pool school so am keeping my fingers crossed for next spring.

But can anyone tell me why one shouldn't swim in the pool that cloudy or dingy green?

I shock the pool in the evening/early morning and do not allow anyone in the pool when adding chemicals etc. unless I am sure that the levels are within limits that won't hurt skin, eyes, etc.

 

[anonapersona]

Ear infections, snot from kids who blow their noses in the pool, fecal matter from poorly wiped bottoms, dead frogs and worms in the pool, bird poop. All these lead to bacterial infections, also some viral infections.

Cloudy water is not safe for swimmers. Search this forum for the story of the dead person at the bottom of a public swimming pool, swimmers did not notice the body and swam for a few days over the corpse.

A friend tells me that they are advised not to feed the ducks in the lake for fear of flesh eating bacteria from massive duck poop. I think that lady from Georgia got that from jumping into a lake and getting a small cut somewhere.

Enough of scaring you. It is just so easy to have a clean, clear, sparkling pool -- you just need to test the water daily and add what the water needs. That's all. You need a good test kit first. Then bleach, maybe muriatic acid, maybe baking soda, maybe a few other things that are easy to get in various places. Keep the leaves cleared out, brush the walls, run the filter. Not much work and so much fun -- if it is clean and sanitary.

 

[poolgranny]

I will use this year as an example. We drained our pool in mid-May. We were able to get the water level down to about a foot or 18 inches of water. I wanted it drained further so we purchased a sump pump that could be used to lower the water even further. We drained it down till it stopped emptying the water, and then switched to a shop vac to empty even further. Had very little water left in the pool. This process took a couple of days. We then swept and scooped all the leaves and debris from the pool. We then used a broom (specially used only in the pool) to "sweep" it some more and scooped out the smaller stuff that we swept up. Then we started the filling process. It takes 2 to 3 days of running our water 24/7 (we have terrible water pressure). After the pool is filled I added 3 chlorine tabs to the two floating containers in the pool for a total of 6 3" pucks in the water. I also added 6 bags of shock. You could see the water going from dark green to a lighter green. I run the pump and filter as much as possible (normally 24/7) but our pump (purchased new this year) kept running dry and was a pain in the rear so was afraid to run it when I was at work. Once the stuff is settled and I can get in to brush and vacuum, I did that. I kept shocking it and checking it with the test strips. We would be able to see into the pool, but once we were in it -- the water would turn a milky green again. I would keep the filter backwashed as needed and vacuum regularly. I kept the chlorine tabs in both floating chlorinators with 3 to 4 pucks at all times. Between the time I filled the pool and a week and half a go I used all of the bags of shock I had, plua 12 bottles of liquid bleach (6 percent). Last week I purchased 10 bottle of liquid pool shock so will switch to it.

My water is finally clear. I was relying on test strips (from Menards/6 way) and then I purchased the test kit in my sig line from our local pool store. I know part of the reason my water was clearer sooner was that I didn't have more accurate information to base my regiment on.

After I have shocked the pool with plenty of chlorine either in the forum of shock and pucks, I haven't really seen a need to keep out of the pool. We don't have a frog problem, the filter is running and skimmer is working so any dead bugs are dumped morning and evening from skimmer basket. Never had a problem with other dead vermin. As far as swimming in a pool with a dead body for a few days, I keep constant head count of the grandkids as some of them use floaties and it is imperative that head count is kept constantly to ensure that an accident such as that doesn't happen and since it is only family in the pool it isn't that difficult to keep head count.

 

[Richard320]

High levels of bacteria.
A lake or river at least has some flow and exchange. What you're describing is more like one of those stagnant catfish ponds.

 

[anonapersona]

Sorry, but I am horrified. (I could certainly say more, but won't go there.)

Please, please, there is a BETTER way to do this.

If you were to test the water and maintain the pool, you would not have to drain and refill each year, risking the pool . I spend about $15 a week in swim season on pool chemicals. My water is so clean that I would drink it with no problems.

For example, at this point, you ought to test pH, FC, and CYA levels at a minimum. pH is important for skin and eye comfort, at extremes it damages pool equipment. FC is sanitation, not just algae but bacteria and viruses. CYA protects the FC and keeps some in reserve to keep sanitation up even when some child blows his nose into the pool or farts.

The other things we test for help you to maintain the pool without scaling or pitting or cloudiness from improper CH levels. Knowing TA tells you how to adjust pH correctly so as to not over or under shoot the comfort zone or damage equipment.

Please, read the posts in this forum, look at the photos of our pools. Our TFP members have beautiful pools. And it is EASY to keep our kids safe and healthy. And it is likely cheaper than what you are currently doing as once the pool is clean, the chlorine demand is less on a daily basis. On a long term basis, you may do damage to the pool itself with the draining each year.

 

[poolgranny]

I have learned alot on this forum and have read the Pool School section several times. I am already changing the way I do things so these changes are already being incorporated into my routine of how I take care of the pool. I have changed to bottle bleach instead of the bag shock.

I am testing chlorine level and ph daily instead of randomly. This has helped.

My water is no longer cloudy or green. I have been reading up on winter covers and truly hope with one pulled tight we can skip the draining and refilling in the spring. The one year we used a winter cover (it came with the pool and so who knows how old it was) it ended up getting lots of holes in it and it let stuff into the pool. I was discouraged and so thought if they did that why bother? I now believe that the cover was dry rotted and the reason it tore like it did.

I really enjoy this forum and all of its helpful member. I am really wanting to learn as much as I can and for me I need to know the whys as well (always the kid part of me that if I have to do something I want to know why).

 

[Mona]

good luck! It sounds like you are on your way. Our winter cover has the cinch wire, but I also start keeping my bleach bottles end of July. When I close the pool I fill them with water and tie them to the cover. It gets windy here and it keeps the cover from riding up.

 

[anonapersona]

I have learned alot on this forum and have read the Pool School section several times. I am already changing the way I do things so these changes are already being incorporated into my routine of how I take care of the pool. -----
My water is no longer cloudy or green.

Yay! We are so happy you are here!

 

[poolgranny]

I hope you don't mind a question or two on the winter cover.

I live in Missouri and depending upon the winter we get very little snow to lots of snow and ice. Our pool is oval shaped. How do we keep the cover from dipping into the pool water. We have a lot of trees in our yard and in the fall leaves of course fall making for a big mess. What is the best way to overcome these obstacles?

 

[savdoc2]

I am in NW MO. We left the cover off one year because we thought the same thing you did - too much work cleaning off the cover and then dropping a bunch of leaves and dirty water in the pool. NEVER again. After that year I found this http://www.pooltreesystem.com/above%20ground%20pool.htm I created my own version of it - which you should be able to do something similar on an oval pool. I love this system and it has made opening so much easier.

 

[Suziqzer]

Keep at it ... !! It does get easier as you work on it and understand the balance better. It is so much more fun and refreshing to swim when the water is crystal clear

 

[Maxxheadroom]

I am in NW MO. We left the cover off one year because we thought the same thing you did - too much work cleaning off the cover and then dropping a bunch of leaves and dirty water in the pool. NEVER again. After that year I found this http://www.pooltreesystem.com/above%20ground%20pool.htm I created my own version of it - which you should be able to do something similar on an oval pool. I love this system and it has made opening so much easier.

Wow, what a simple yet very effective way of dealing with a cover over winter! I was going to build a PVC stand to prop my cover up this winter, but this is so simple!!! Thanks for sharing!

 

[poolgranny]

What did you use for the "balls"? I was thinking that maybe the big exercise balls might work but not sure. Anyone else tried them?

I think we are going to try something similar to the suggestion so that water will drain off.

 

[savdoc2]

We used a fitness ball. It was blown up 3 winters ago and remains full of air.

 

[danpik]

I hope you don't mind a question or two on the winter cover.

I live in Missouri and depending upon the winter we get very little snow to lots of snow and ice. Our pool is oval shaped. How do we keep the cover from dipping into the pool water. We have a lot of trees in our yard and in the fall leaves of course fall making for a big mess. What is the best way to overcome these obstacles?

Here in western NY we have many of the same conditions. I use a plastic 55 gallon drum for a cover float. bought it from a local hardware store in town that sells them for $10.00. Had it for 10 years nor and works fine. As for debris, I just use my skimmer net to remove the accumulation every couple of days. I also pump most of the water off of the cover and clean out all of the debris prior to the snow fall. In the spring I have very little stuff on the cover.

 

[poolgranny]

Thanks guys you are awesome!!