i am fighting chlorine to stay up...i went through a 40lb bucket in about a month or so....someone please help...my phosphates i brought down from 2500 to near zero...any replys greatly appreciated
Chlorine won't stay up
- Thread starter rubberboots
- Start date
Well, you ain't gonna like it, but...
Can you post a complete set of test results?
I'd bet large sums and give long odds that you are suffering from super high CYA levels, which has rendered your chlorine ineffective, and algae is starting to take hold. Right now the pool is probably not as clear as it should be. It should be green, but you spent umpteen dollars on phosphate removers which keeps it from growing out of control.
What you need first is education. Start in
Then you need test results.
Then you can come up with a plan of attack that will get you clear water with the least amount of wasted time and money.
Can you post a complete set of test results?
I'd bet large sums and give long odds that you are suffering from super high CYA levels, which has rendered your chlorine ineffective, and algae is starting to take hold. Right now the pool is probably not as clear as it should be. It should be green, but you spent umpteen dollars on phosphate removers which keeps it from growing out of control.
What you need first is education. Start in
Then you need test results.
Then you can come up with a plan of attack that will get you clear water with the least amount of wasted time and money.
Do everything Richard said, but make sure to read Pool School TWICE! The 2nd time I read it I picked up some info that I had missed on the first read.
Tell me if am reading this correctly..
Bucket meant you are using solid pucks of CL. Did you know you also added have added 4-20 pounds of CYA/Stabilizer/conditioner to your pool with the one bucket and this is making your CL even less effective
Your Chlorine is not keeping your pool clean and you are fighting algae every week
Your pool is in the blazing sun because you live in Bakersfield and the sun is eating all of your chlorine
The guy at the pool store said you need a phosphate remover, and algaecide and your TDS is out of range. You added them and now your phosphate is 0 but your pool doesn't look any better
You have spent WAY to much at the pool $tore and you need a better answer
Congratulations, you have made the first step to solving these problems. The only issue is, to get to where you want to be... you need to take control of the testing of your pool and not allow the pool store to tell you what you need. To do this, you need a high quality test kit.
The pool school has all the details.
If you can, complete your profile and your signature with your equipment and pool details. It helps us to help you.
Bucket meant you are using solid pucks of CL. Did you know you also added have added 4-20 pounds of CYA/Stabilizer/conditioner to your pool with the one bucket and this is making your CL even less effective
Your Chlorine is not keeping your pool clean and you are fighting algae every week
Your pool is in the blazing sun because you live in Bakersfield and the sun is eating all of your chlorine
The guy at the pool store said you need a phosphate remover, and algaecide and your TDS is out of range. You added them and now your phosphate is 0 but your pool doesn't look any better
You have spent WAY to much at the pool $tore and you need a better answer
Congratulations, you have made the first step to solving these problems. The only issue is, to get to where you want to be... you need to take control of the testing of your pool and not allow the pool store to tell you what you need. To do this, you need a high quality test kit.
The pool school has all the details.
If you can, complete your profile and your signature with your equipment and pool details. It helps us to help you.
no...it was a bucket of shock...water is clear...im brushing about every other day CYA is 90
Can you post a set of test results?
CYA at 90 is very difficult to manage, and you'll need to maintain a minimum FC level of 7ppm or higher (12 is your target high) to have any effective chlorine in your pool.
40-50 is the recommended CYA level, you could perhaps get away with a little more, up to maybe 60ppm if you're in full sun all day.
So, to lower your CYA level, you'll need to drain roughly 40% of your water. Pool Calculator will help you determine how much to drain.
All this is in Pool School, so do take a few read thorughs there. Additionally, shocking your pool is not a one time event, nor is it a product. Shocking is a process, that requires maintaining shock level throughout the entire process. To do that, you'll need a FAS-DPD test kit that can test higher than 5ppm, and also test for Total Chlorine.
If you've got any testing ability right now, go ahead and provide us what you can. And then have a drink of something soothing and start reading Pool School. It'll make what we say far more understandable.
Welcome btw :~}
CYA at 90 is very difficult to manage, and you'll need to maintain a minimum FC level of 7ppm or higher (12 is your target high) to have any effective chlorine in your pool.
40-50 is the recommended CYA level, you could perhaps get away with a little more, up to maybe 60ppm if you're in full sun all day.
So, to lower your CYA level, you'll need to drain roughly 40% of your water. Pool Calculator will help you determine how much to drain.
All this is in Pool School, so do take a few read thorughs there. Additionally, shocking your pool is not a one time event, nor is it a product. Shocking is a process, that requires maintaining shock level throughout the entire process. To do that, you'll need a FAS-DPD test kit that can test higher than 5ppm, and also test for Total Chlorine.
If you've got any testing ability right now, go ahead and provide us what you can. And then have a drink of something soothing and start reading Pool School. It'll make what we say far more understandable.
Welcome btw :~}
How was the test done to get your 90CYA reading? Computer, drops in a tube with a slide handle, or a tube with a black dot on the bottom.
drop tester...im sure thats why im fighting it...just bought a new bucket of shock...ill be draining soon...i dont want to waste chemical
FAC...1
TAC...1
CH...300
CYA...90
TA...80
pH...7.4
COPPER...0
IRON...0
PHOSPHATES...100
FAC...1
TAC...1
CH...300
CYA...90
TA...80
pH...7.4
COPPER...0
IRON...0
PHOSPHATES...100
That's good to hear they used a drop test. The others are not reliable enough.
While you are draining it, you can order a test kit with the FAS-DPD powder based CL test (not the Leslies DPD tester that is not a suitable replacement) like the one I show below. If I were you, I would see if I could trade-in the bucket of shock for jugs of liquid chlorinator. The shock powder frequently includes CYA in it... unless it is Cal-Hypo.
What type of pool do you have?
What type of filter are you using?
While you are draining it, you can order a test kit with the FAS-DPD powder based CL test (not the Leslies DPD tester that is not a suitable replacement) like the one I show below. If I were you, I would see if I could trade-in the bucket of shock for jugs of liquid chlorinator. The shock powder frequently includes CYA in it... unless it is Cal-Hypo.
What type of pool do you have?
What type of filter are you using?
where can i get cal hypo...free forn gunite or plaster 20,000 maybe a little less with spa...jandy cl 340 cartridge
Can get cal~hypo about anywhere. Pool store, walmart...
What are the ingredients of the shock product you have there?
Pool school making any sense yet?
What are the ingredients of the shock product you have there?
Pool school making any sense yet?
i have been learning the pool for the last 2 years...its home depot shock...how do you put your pool info at the bottom of every message
You go to the "User Control Panel" in the top left. Profile and signature are the two you need.
When Frog asked you about "Pool School", she meant the one in the top right corner of this page.
In it you learn about the different types of chlorine and why to choose one over the other (I chose liquid chlorine like most here)
You also learn "shock" is not a bag or bucket you buy at the store. It is a carefully monitored process of bringing your Free Chlorine (FC) up to a "shock" level to kill algae and drive off the bad smelling CC that make your pool cloudy.
I hope you find this useful.
When Frog asked you about "Pool School", she meant the one in the top right corner of this page.
In it you learn about the different types of chlorine and why to choose one over the other (I chose liquid chlorine like most here)
You also learn "shock" is not a bag or bucket you buy at the store. It is a carefully monitored process of bringing your Free Chlorine (FC) up to a "shock" level to kill algae and drive off the bad smelling CC that make your pool cloudy.
I hope you find this useful.
Do you see the white button at the top right of every page here? Thats pool school. Youre going to find the answers to most of your questions there. And it will not exactly be anything like you've learned the past two years.
Do take the time to read pool school. We're here if you need is, but without the knowledge you can find there, and a readiness to do things differently, you will not understand how this works.
it does work. It works beautifully. Every darn time. You want?
Edit: in your user profile, see the signature link on the left side of the user control panel. Add your into there.
Do take the time to read pool school. We're here if you need is, but without the knowledge you can find there, and a readiness to do things differently, you will not understand how this works.
it does work. It works beautifully. Every darn time. You want?
Edit: in your user profile, see the signature link on the left side of the user control panel. Add your into there.
Hi rubberboots and welcome to TFP! 
Well, I really can't add much other than how important a good test kit is.
A TF-100 is the best value going, get the XL option if you have been fighting algae, with will give you some extra in the kit for more tests.
This is the Snap-On tool of the trade here, without good reliable test results pool care will be much harder to understand, fix and maintain.
Home of the TF-100 kits:
http://tftestkits.net/splash-page.html
West Coast supplier:
http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/poolsupp ... TF-100.htm
Chuck
Well, I really can't add much other than how important a good test kit is.
A TF-100 is the best value going, get the XL option if you have been fighting algae, with will give you some extra in the kit for more tests.
This is the Snap-On tool of the trade here, without good reliable test results pool care will be much harder to understand, fix and maintain.
Home of the TF-100 kits:
http://tftestkits.net/splash-page.html
West Coast supplier:
http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/poolsupp ... TF-100.htm
Chuck
I'm sure we're all wondering if you're with us here, or if you're discounting what you've been told and will continue to ask questions that can be answered in Pool School.
We don't get paid to help you. If you want our help, we need you to educate yourself so you know what we're talking about. Otherwise, there are many other people here at TFP who we can better dedicate our unpaid help towards.
What's happening today with your pool?
We don't get paid to help you. If you want our help, we need you to educate yourself so you know what we're talking about. Otherwise, there are many other people here at TFP who we can better dedicate our unpaid help towards.
What's happening today with your pool?
