Cloudy/muddy water problem.

Jul 19, 2012
34
Well, this is my second year using the bbb method, and it has worked quiet well, until now. I went on a vacation to another state for a week, and somehow the pump got unplugged. And from that, algae started to grow. So, after i got back, i started working on getting rid of the algae. I stopped using bleach, and am using shock, because in my area it is cheaper then bleach. So after about two weeks, the algae was almost gone, but the water was incredibly cloudy. (I also bought a chlorine tablet to keep the chlorine up, witch i should have done before i left.) Now, as i was taking out the filter to clean it (cartridge) when i pulled it out, mud looking water came out with it! I don't know if it is dirt, or something else, (dead algae maybe???) And, as i was cleaning the filter, milk coloured water came out. Now, this filter was two weeks old, and for me, a two week old filter has a brown colour to it. This one was pure white! Plus, the pool doesn't seem to be improving. Can someone tell me what this white looking stuff is, why my pool is cloudy, and not getting better. Also, what am i doing wrong????

P.S. after i got back no one was allowed to swim in it, so not as much strain on the pump and filter, plus it looks a little scarry swimming in...
 

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Welcome to tfp, The Pool Nerd :wave:

The Pool Nerd said:
I stopped using bleach, and am using shock, because in my area it is cheaper then bleach.
What is in the "shock" (take a look at the label)?

The Pool Nerd said:
I don't know if it is dirt, or something else, (dead algae maybe???)
Likely dead algae or possibly calcium build up if you have been using cal-hypo (or have high calcium hardness for another reason).

Make sure you review the shocking process. On tpf, shocking a pool is not a product labeled "shock" but instead is a process of raising your chlorine level to a high level (depending on your cya level) and holding it there until the criteria in the link above are met.
 
linen said:
Welcome to tfp, The Pool Nerd :wave:

The Pool Nerd said:
I stopped using bleach, and am using shock, because in my area it is cheaper then bleach.
What is in the "shock" (take a look at the label)?

[quote="The Pool Nerd":3tku0tth] I don't know if it is dirt, or something else, (dead algae maybe???)
Likely dead algae or possibly calcium build up if you have been using cal-hypo (or have high calcium hardness for another reason).

Make sure you review the shocking process. On tpf, shocking a pool is not a product labeled "shock" but instead is a process of raising your chlorine level to a high level (depending on your cya level) and holding it there until the criteria in the link above are met.[/quote:3tku0tth]
I don't use cal-hypo, only muradic acid ( I always have high alk. and PH.) Pool Shock and swim, and the cya acid/stabilizer. But, looking at the main ingredients in the shock, Calcium Hypochlorite... So i guess i am using cal-hypo. Hm. Should i stop using it? I don't want to buy bleach, it is fairly expensive where i live...
 
The Pool Nerd said:
But, looking at the main ingredients in the shock, Calcium Hypochlorite... So i guess i am using cal-hypo. Hm. Should i stop using it?
It depends on what your CH level and other test results are. Please post a full set of test results: FC, CC, ph, TA, CH, and cya. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/what-we-need-to-know-to-answer-your-questions-t10341.html

The Pool Nerd said:
I don't want to buy bleach, it is fairly expensive where i live...
Where do you live and how much is it? Another option is liquid chlorine (high concentration bleach) typically at 10 or 12.5% sodium hypochlorite (verse 6% sodium hypochlorite in bleach).
 
ok, here we go
CYA:25ppm
Total Chlorine:5ppm
sorry, don't have free chlorine or combined chlorine tests.
pH:8.2
Alk:200ppm
Total Hardness: um, when i added the hardness indicator, it turned yellow/transparent.
 

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The Pool Nerd said:
Total Hardness: um, when i added the hardness indicator, it turned yellow/transparent.
As I understand it, the HTH CH test (that is the one you have?) has more trouble with interferants. As you add drops, the color will probably turn to green, indicating your CH level.
 
Assuming your CH level is high, it is not surprising at your high ph and higher TA levels, that you are getting calcium buildup and potential clouding in your pool/filter. First thing to do is to drop the ph level down to 7.2-7.4 and attempt to keep it there.
 
linen said:
The Pool Nerd said:
Total Hardness: um, when i added the hardness indicator, it turned yellow/transparent.
As I understand it, the HTH CH test (that is the one you have?) has more trouble with interferants. As you add drops, the color will probably turn to green, indicating your CH level.
I have the HtH 6 way test kit. Test total chlorine, bromine,pH, total alk., total hardness, cya.
 
linen said:
Assuming your CH level is high, it is not surprising at your high ph and higher TA levels, that you are getting calcium buildup and potential clouding in your pool/filter. First thing to do is to drop the ph level down to 7.2-7.4 and attempt to keep it there.
The thing is, no matter how much acid i add, it always remains up. It was like that last year to. And i used bleach then. ounce, i added half a gallon of acid, (yes, i know, very bad idea) checked it next week, it lowered it by about 5 ppm. And it is a 15 ft by 4 ft round pool
 
Make sure your FC (or in your case TC) level is always below 10 ppm when testing the ph since FC above 10 ppm makes the ph inaccurate and causes it to read high. When testing ph, do it before adding chlorine to the pool.
 
linen said:
Make sure your FC (or in your case TC) level is always below 10 ppm when testing the ph since FC above 10 ppm makes the ph inaccurate and causes it to read high. When testing ph, do it before adding chlorine to the pool.
ok, I'll keep that in mind. my test only goes up to 5ppm though...
 
The Pool Nerd said:
ok, I'll keep that in mind. my test only goes up to 5ppm though...
Speaking of which, when are you going to get a big boy kit :mrgreen:

I have experimented with the OTO test and when my FAS-DPD FC chlorine test is indicating 10...testing with the OTO and getting deep yellow could still be confused with 5 on it's scale.
 
How big is the pool? It is hard to say how much is too much acid not knowing the size. With FC > 10ppm (not sure what you are at if your test only goes to 5ppm) the pH will read artificially high. But, if the FC < 10ppm and the pH reads 8.2 ... that could mean it is ANYTHING > 8.2ppm. It may take a LOT of acid to get it down into range. That is your first step.

Also, are you SURE that the amount of FC that is added by the cal-hypo is actually cheaper than the 6% bleach? Give us the prices and quantities of each and we can tell you which will add the FC for the cheapest cost.

Oh yeah ... I too have to recommend investing in one of the recommended test kits so you can sure of your pool's chemical levels.
 
linen said:
The Pool Nerd said:
ok, I'll keep that in mind. my test only goes up to 5ppm though...
Speaking of which, when are you going to get a big boy kit :mrgreen:

I have experimented with the OTO test and when my FAS-DPD FC chlorine test is indicating 10...testing with the OTO and getting deep yellow could still be confused with 5 on it's scale.
I don't want to spend bunches of money, after all, i am not near rich.
 

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