30 ppm FC with 80 ppm CYA has the same active chlorine level as 0.4 ppm FC with no CYA so less than found in indoor commercial/public pools. So while about 8 times higher than the normal non-shock target level for your SWG, it's not extraordinarily high and it won't be for months at a time. We've had hundreds if not thousands of people shock their pools when they have algae or similar problems (usually when first joining this forum) and none of them with vinyl pools has ever reported any fading from the shock process.Michaelandliz said:My other concern is I have a 3 year old daughter that swims daily, when I have shocked before to about 12FC following the companies guidelines it takes about 3 days for the FC to drop back to about 5. I could never let our Daughter swim in 30FC and I fear the pool would be closed for weeks while i wait for it to drop back down.
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My other concern is bleaching my lovely deep blue liner.
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My pool is clear but get a lot of dead algea dust on the bottom it has also been super hot here recently
Now, that said, you should add the chlorine slowly over a return flow in the deep end with the pump running and then lightly brush the wall and floor where you add it to ensure thorough mixing. Though this procedure is critically important when adding acid, it's also a good idea when adding chlorine as well.
If the dead algae is a yellow/mustard dust-like substance (that might look green on a blue vinyl background) and if it is mostly in the shady area of the pool, then you may have yellow/mustard algae which is harder to get rid of and has more extensive procedures. Are you able to scoop up any of the algae carefully with a net? If so and it looks green out of the water or if it is growing in sunny areas of the pool, then it's most likely green algae (I'm hoping that's all it is).