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Thread: First test with Taylor K-2006

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    First test with Taylor K-2006

    These are my first test results with Taylor-K2006

    AG 30' round, approx 23000 gallons
    Hayward 1.5 hp pump/Cartridge Filter
    Temp 68F
    pressure at 11 on startup
    TA 100
    PH 7.2
    CH 160
    FC 14
    CC 6
    CYA over 100 if I did it right

    We started about a week ago with green sludge and a new Hayward 1.5 hp pump and cartridge filter. Since we didn't have the good test kit until yesterday, we have been winging it with BBC and an Aquachem CH/PH and strips. We have vac'd and brushed some but not as much as we'd like due to the fact we have only a partial deck and haven't had the time to spend with it (since I have to move a step stool around). I plan on spending some time on the brushing today. The pump runs continuously and we have tried to be as diligent as possible cleaning the filter and running/cleaning Rover.

    The pool is now an aqua color and you can actually see the white top of Rover at the bottom. When I pulled the water for testing it looked pretty clear in the container but it's not crystal. I'm trying not to be too concerned about the CYA right now because of everything we've gone through in the last week.

    Where should I go from here?
    AG 30' round
    Hayward 1.5 hp/cartridge filter
    Nashville, TN

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    One thing I see, with your CYA at 100, your shock level should be at 25, so you need to get that number up
    27' Round AG, 17,200 gallons, sand filter

  3. Back To Top    #3
    Butterfly's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    South Carolina
    Welcome to TFP

    Just in case you haven't read it, here is Jason's Sticky on clearing a green pool:

    You can use Jason's calculator to add the proper amounts to shock - link in my signature.

    More help will be on the way!
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

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  4. Back To Top    #4
    JasonLion's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Silver Spring, MD
    You should double check the CYA reading and if it is really over 100 you need to bring it down. The big issue is the murky water can make CYA read higher than it actually is. So you probably need to wait till the water is clear to get a reliable test.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  5. Back To Top    #5
    Thanks everyone! I did read the stickie and play with the pool calculator before I started and trying to do everything it says. I was confused on the recommended amounts (thought it was just SWG) but I've got that now. I wanted to make sure the CYA wasn't zero and figured I'd wait until the water cleared to check it again. I'm afraid my reagents are going to be gone before I even get the water clear.

    I'm not sure I'm reading the chlorine right. I added 2.9 182oz jugs of Clorox (to bring it from 14 to 25) at 3 p.m. I tested it at 3:30 for 1 drop = 0.2 ppm and quit after 32 drops. I thought it was skyrocket and I had pulled a bad sample from a place I had poured in the bleach without letting it circulate long enough.

    I waited until 6 p.m. to test again. This time I used 1 drop = 0.5 ppm (hoping to save on the drops). I put in 18 drops to get FC and 2 to get CC.

    Now I'm questioning...Is that 9.0 FC, 1 CC? If so, I did my original calc wrong (apparently 7 drops x .2ppm) and I should have been raising from 1.4 to 25...Oohhhh....I need to buy Clorox stock. If not, then my FC is 90?????!!!!!

    If someone can explain how to read the chlorine number I'll just start from the last test. I'm glad I'm not a chemist. I would have been fired already.
    AG 30' round
    Hayward 1.5 hp/cartridge filter
    Nashville, TN

  6. Back To Top    #6

    In the Industry
    duraleigh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Sebring, Florida

    Below are instructions for the FAS/DPD test in my kit. The test is identical to the one in the Taylor kit but may be worded a little differently to help's worth a try.

    Chlorine Drop test - If you need to a) measure Chlorine levels accurately or b) higher than 5ppm or c) test for Combined Chloramines…perform the Chlorine Drop Test. (FAS/DPD)
    1. Rinse and fill the “Chlorine only” graduated cylinder to the 10mL mark
    2. Add ONE heaping scoop of the R-870 powder and swirl to mix. (It may not all dissolve….don’t worry) The solution will turn pink.
    3. Next, carefully add R-871 solution one drop at a time. Count each drop and swirl until the solution turns back to clear. Multiply the number of drops you added times .5 (14 drops X .5 = 7ppm)
    4. Record your results as FC (free chlorine)
    5. To test for Combined Chloramines, add 5 drops of R-0003 to the solution and swirl. If it remains clear, you have no CC’s. If it returns back to pink, add R-0871 as before, counting and swirling between each drop. Once the solution returns clear, multiply the added drops times .5 again…..this will be your CC reading. Record it. The total of FC and CC should be recorded as TC (total chlorine)
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  7. Back To Top    #7
    Great. Thank You! I calc'd it wrong first time (x2 instead of x.2). I'll start with my last good read and go from there.
    AG 30' round
    Hayward 1.5 hp/cartridge filter
    Nashville, TN

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