what to do -shocking with high TA

[3spawns]

I have been shocking for about two weeks (1 week of shocking using the TF-100). Reason for shocking is my pool water is milky. I still have not passed my OCLT as of yet. My numbers are
FC 30
CC .5
CH 220
Ph 7.8
CYA 60 ( I had added to get my CYA to 70 (will be a week tomorrow when I added it) - so I have been using a shock of 28. Should I just go with 60 instead of the goal of 70? Will one more day make a difference of 10?
TA 540 it starts out a blue green color and turns yellow with the drops.
So my question is do I keep shocking or address the high TA while shocking?

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome to TFP!!!

Sounds like you did a lot of reading before your first post

You can not address the TA while shocking. The only way to lower the TA is by adding acid which also lowers pH (see the article in Pool School).

But, the pH test is not valid when the FC > 10ppm ... so you would have no way to ensure you did not get the pH WAY too low.

 

[3spawns]

Yes I did do a lot of reading (pool School and searching other post). I just could not find anything for a TA that high. So I will continue to shock. Is it safe to swim with TA that high? I read that it is okay to swim up to shock level with clear water. So with having milky water does that nix swimming? The kids are going crazy (I have not been letting them swim) and temp here has been 100+.

 

[jblizzle]

Hard to really say if it is safe or not due to the cloudy water. If you are not passing the OCLT also, then something in the water is still consuming the FC and I would say it is not safe.

If the CC were zero and you had been passing the OCLT for while, but the water was cloudy, I might say it was probably safe if the FC was below shock level ... just because the filter you have may take a long time to clear the pool if it is undersized.

Have you reviewed extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html to see if maybe your TA test procedure was a little off?

 

[3spawns]

Afraid you were going to say that.
We do plan on getting a better filter for next year. Any recommendations for a pool our size?
Yes, I did go and check out the extended testing thread and TA testing seems legit but CH might me off because I was getting purple instead of blue (and I did the 2 drops of r-0012 before adding the r-0011L). By in the post it said 5 so might have to redo that test.
Thank you for the help. Great site for newbie pool owners (who bought a pool because it was so hot and now can't use the pool because of shocking). I will not give up because I am the little engine that can.

 

[jblizzle]

Your pool size is right around the edge where we would say the fastest cheapest option might be to drain, clean, refill and start over. That is still an option if the water is not clearing, and likely would be cheaper than continuing to add bleach.

You could be swimming by tomorrow ... just a thought. Water are your water rates? Might only be $20-$40 to refill and start over.

 

[JasonLion]

The high TA is not, in and of it's self, a problem. The problem is that high TA tends to drive up the PH, and really high TA will drive up the PH quickly. If the PH gets too high the chlorine will not be as effective as it otherwise would be and you start to run significant chances of getting calcium scaling.

TA as high as you are reporting poses a real dilemma. You have been shocking for two weeks, so the PH has likely gone up too high. But if you stop shocking in order to lower FC and allow the PH to be measured you could let the algae get started again and lose the ground you have gained so far. That does make the complete water replacement jblizzle suggested a little more attractive. If you don't go that route, it might be worth letting FC go down to below 18 long enough to adjust the PH down to around 7.4, least you have more serious problems than just algae.

 

[3spawns]

Starting fresh is becoming more and more attractive. Do I do a complete drain and refill or part?
My only problem is I know I do not have enough stabilizer to get CYA up to where it needs to be and our only source of pool supplies is wal-mart. And they were out of just about everything. My only other option would be to order online and wait however many days to get some shipped. Oh, the dilemmas. :/

 

[jblizzle]

A full drain and then cleaning of the pool and then a fill would ensure that the "nasties" were all out. A partial drain may not get enough out.

How much CYA to you have left?

Did Walmart have any granular dichlor? as that could be used to start raising the FC and the CYA.

 

[3spawns]

Okay, I am ready to drain. Now I just got to convince the husband.
As far as CYA I have 28 oz of the stabilizer left. But I have an SWG and need at least 37oz to get it to 60. Do you think what I have left will possibly work?

 

[jblizzle]

What you have left should get you to about 52ppm ... a bit below the recommend 70-80ppm for SWG pools.

Like I said you could start with dichlor if you are careful to add more CYA (if Walmart is out) before starting the SWG.

When it is drained wash everything with soap and water and a brush. Rinse it really well. And then fill it up. Get the CYA added and use bleach (or dichlor) to keep the FC level reasonable until you can get the SWG going.

 

[3spawns]

Draining.................
After cleaning with soap and water and while we are filling with new water is it okay to add the salt while filling? Than when should I test levels? After filling and running SWG or can I do it midway?
This pool better sparkle like a diamond!

 

[jblizzle]

Should be fine to add the salt. Once the pool is circulating get the CYA in and add some bleach to keep the FC above the minimum ... maybe actually shoot for shock level overnight while the salt is mixing to make sure all is dead.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone