Hayward pump hums then stops after long rain

Jump to latest Follow Reply
C

crumley

0
May 24, 2011
30
Austin, TX
This week we had a crazy amount of rain. The area of my yard where the pool equipment is was flooded due to heavy rain in a short period. I heard the pump trying to come on and then going off about 10 seconds later. I turned off the breaker and let it rest until the area was more dry and then pump was able to turn on and function properly for a few hours until it cycled off (although it sounded odd).

A day later (and much drier) the pump comes on but turns off after about 10 seconds of humming. It sounds like the motor is really straining and slows down as it starts to prime. See video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnoA7VQnOUc

The squeeks at the end of the video are actually birds chirping and not the pump. =)

I opened the basket and checked the impeller for any obstructions but it was clear.

Any idea what is going on? Anything else to check before looking for someone to service it?

Pool is 10k gallon, sand filter, chlorine.
Pump: Hayward Tristar 1.5 HP, 220V.

[attachment=0:3m178h6q]IMG_2240.jpg[/attachment:3m178h6q]
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2240.jpg
    IMG_2240.jpg
    247.6 KB · Views: 111
Interesting about the valves.... After the rain stopped and the pump started working I was backwashing the system and accidentally set one of the controls from pool/spa/spillover to spillover and the valves started switching... and I immediately set it back to pool but perhaps the valves didn't go back to normal... Unfortunately I have no idea how the valves should be set or how to reset them.

Attached are some pictures. Maybe they help?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2212.jpg
    IMG_2212.jpg
    217.5 KB · Views: 108
  • IMG_2228.jpg
    IMG_2228.jpg
    196.9 KB · Views: 105
  • IMG_2222.jpg
    IMG_2222.jpg
    246.2 KB · Views: 105
Given that the valves are open and there are several suction lines available does it still seem possible this is a suction line clog?

I will try to stick a garden hose in the line on the pump side to see if that helps. Any other suggestions are welcome!
 
Right now there are 3 paths for the water to be sucked from the pool. IF there was a suction side clog it would have to be after all the Jandy valves.

What happens when in spa mode? Does the motor sound different?
 
Spa mode has the same issue (and similar sound).

I just stuck a garden hose with wet towel into the line on the pump side and closed all valves and had the water back up into the pump... then opened one valve at a time and watched the water go back down. Seems like water is able to flow.

Just to verify the problem isn't on the filter side I opened a water spigot that is on the filter side and water starts to shoot out but dies out as the pump stops.
 
I am going to ask a question, mostly out of ignorance as I don't have these or any automation.

Is it possible the automation is closing that jandy valve in the suction line after the pump starts running?
Could it close that valve without any external indication?

I don't know ANYTHING about these but computers do weird things.
 
When the controls change the valves I can see the handle moving until it hits its desired position. The valves have not changed position since I took that picture (besides my manual experiment with the hose).

Could I try running the pump with the cover off to see if it spins? Or is that going to cause more problems than its worth?
 
OK. let me get this straight. The pump starts and then slows down and stops (turns off?). With the suction on either the pool or spa. Water shoots out the spigot above the pump and slows down and stops with the pump.

Seems like something is wrong with the motor. There does not seem to be a suction block (the pump basket is empty right?). And if it was a pressure side block, you would still have pressure coming out of the spigot. You said you checked the impeller.

Is there air in the pump basket the whole time?

You could try turning it on with the cover off, do not leave it on for more than a minute or so with no water in it. That would see if the motor keeps spinning.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You have it correct. The pump starts OK, starts pulling water into the basket (but still mostly air), starts slow down until there is just a hum, and then clicks off despite the controls still sending it voltage. The motor casing also gets hot to the touch.

Pump basket is empty (clean), impeller is not blocked and I can spin it with my finger (with power off =) )... spigot doesn't shoot water but for a few seconds before the pump stops.

I just tried opening the basket and turning on the pump. It sounds good at first but after a bit longer (20 seconds or so) it starts slowing down and eventually stops.
 
ohhh... you have an air leak in addition to it not being able to keep suction. I listened to the video and know the sound changes. If you have an airleak, it completely possible that you lose prime due to the air leak.

Solve your air leak first and the water prime loss may be fixed at the same time. The air leak could build within the pump strainer and lose prime. I don't know the mechanics but above ground pumps are designed to be self priming (I think they spin faster to create the prime to create a vacuum and vent the trapped air when they can draw water).

Above Ground pool motors/pumps are designed to be below water level and cannot pump if they have a full basket of air. You myust "burp" out the air before starting the pump or they go dry.

Now that I type all of this...is it possible yuo have an Above Ground Pump installed on an in-ground pool --or-- the self priming feature of your current pump is not working correctly?

I hope this helps... I am not a pump-geek.
 
IG pool pumps do not change speeds when they prime ... you pump is for an IG pool.

I think your motor is bad ... but I do not know the reasons. It has a safety thermal switch that turns the pump off if it overheats. Now that you say it gets hot and clicks off, that is likely what is happening. What is odd is that it is overheating in that short a period of time ... which makes me think that something inside must be bad. Sometimes the overheating is due to a bad capacitor. And some motors have 2, a start capacitor and a run capacitor. I am wondering if your run capacitor is bad ... since it is able to start and then dies. Although looking at your pump I think it only has 1 ... it would be located in the back of the motor. I am not exactly sure how to test if it is bad or not.

Have you considered just replacing the motor with a new 2-speed motor that would use the same pump?
 
Simple, but not cheap... sure is nice to have the pool swimmable though. =)

Opted for another single speed as installer claimed it would be a lot more work to install a two speed. Perhaps he was referring to installing the switch?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply