So I went to the pool calculator and put in FC 0, target FC 12 and it says I need to add 995oz of 6% bleach???
Hayward Chlorinator
- Thread starter ohajoh22
- Start date
ohajoh22 said:
Reasonable. It takes a lot fo chlorine to do aything with 40,000 gallons of water. Each gallon of bleach adds 1.5ppm of chlorine, so it's going to take around 8 gallons of bleach to get there.
You have a little misunderstanding of the difference in our meaning of the shock process and the pool stores meaning of shock. When we say to perform the shock process it means the you have to rapidly raise the FC and hold it at shock level for your CYA until you've completed the shock process. When the pool store says to shock the pool it just means to throw a product in the pool. So when you say "So does that mean I will have to keep shocking the pool?" the answer is no. You have to keep it at shock level until you pass the OCLT and unless something goes wrong you won't ever have to shock it again.ohajoh22 said:
Since you normally use pucks to chlorinate your pool we don't believe that your CYA is really 30.ohajoh22 said:
If you'll read through several of the threads here you'll see that you're not alone. You've been lucky up to now and it's finally caught up with you. This year is different than last and it's enough different to cause lots of problems for pools.ohajoh22 said:
I am sensing some confusion here.
here is what I see as a summary
You want to fix you Hayward chlorinator but the pool store told you it may be plugged...if your pucks are disappearing...it cannot be plugged as the pool water is dissolving them. If the pucks go into the body and they stay nearly solid pucks, then you may have a plugged chlorinator.
Pouring MA into the chlorinator body is likely to cause a MAJOR problem. You could kill someone with chlorine gas , especially in a confined space. The MA any and solid chlorine as likely to create a lot of heat and possibly cause damage to YOU or the equipment
This is MA and bleach together making a potentially lethal chlorine gas cloud (yellow)
youtu.be/4VQIAUqVsyI
here is what I see as a summary
You want to fix you Hayward chlorinator but the pool store told you it may be plugged...if your pucks are disappearing...it cannot be plugged as the pool water is dissolving them. If the pucks go into the body and they stay nearly solid pucks, then you may have a plugged chlorinator.
Pouring MA into the chlorinator body is likely to cause a MAJOR problem. You could kill someone with chlorine gas , especially in a confined space. The MA any and solid chlorine as likely to create a lot of heat and possibly cause damage to YOU or the equipment
This is MA and bleach together making a potentially lethal chlorine gas cloud (yellow)
youtu.be/4VQIAUqVsyI
Regular good old household bleach would be better than liquid chlorine form pool supply I'm assuming???
When I opened the chlorinator top last night to check the pucks, it was quite a strong smell coming out of there, so much I had to leave the shed and get fresh air. I dont recall that being the case either last year. Maybe I'll disconnect it tonight and check to see if I see and blockages, but I didn't think the acid trick was the way to go either, that's why I posted the question. Thanks to everyone for all the answers and help.
ohajoh22 said:
They are the same in different strengths. They are all chlorine gas dissolved in water.6% is half the strength if 12%. I buy based on price. Wal-Mart 6% is about 2.98 for 1.5 gallons. I got 12% at the pool for $15 plus deposit for 4 gallons which is about 50c less expensive per gallon when the strengths are equalized.
As to the chlorinator... Many here will suggest you leave it empty and ONLY use liquid chlorine. I ONLY use liquid... it less expensive and easier to manage and doesn't add CYA to my pool like most solid forms of CL do.
Have you realized yet that you have no way of testing a FC level to 12ppm to ensure that you keep it there?
Personally I would order a test kit and find out what the levels REALLY are in the pool before I start blindly adding stuff to the pool.
If your CYA is very high (as it possible given the amount of pucks it sounds like you use), then you could very well need to drain at least part of the pool.
If the CYA is some how low, you may have bacteria converting it to ammonia which will use up the FC very quickly ... this would likely show up as CC ... which you have not reported.
In either case ... continue with the pucks into the future is not sustainable. Sure it may work for a year or 2 and then BOOM the chlorine falls off the radar and you are in trouble. We have seen this time and time again on the forums. Until you read Pool School to learn about the pool's chemistry and have your own test kit ... it is all guess work.
Personally I would order a test kit and find out what the levels REALLY are in the pool before I start blindly adding stuff to the pool.
If your CYA is very high (as it possible given the amount of pucks it sounds like you use), then you could very well need to drain at least part of the pool.
If the CYA is some how low, you may have bacteria converting it to ammonia which will use up the FC very quickly ... this would likely show up as CC ... which you have not reported.
In either case ... continue with the pucks into the future is not sustainable. Sure it may work for a year or 2 and then BOOM the chlorine falls off the radar and you are in trouble. We have seen this time and time again on the forums. Until you read Pool School to learn about the pool's chemistry and have your own test kit ... it is all guess work.
I am going to pick up a FAS-DPD test kit tonight on my way home, and some bleach. I will test with test kit before I do everything as it is possible the pool store is incorrect. Believe me, I do not hold what they say to be true, I see the summer help and wonder how anyone listens to them, but i was in a bind, and had my wife take a bottle to be tested as I was away all weekend, and when I came home, the algae was back. One more quick thing, I notice when I have my solar cover on, I'm good, is that because the sun is not eating away the FC?? Also, most of my problems seem to be in deep end, not shallow???
If you actually find the FAS-DPD test locally, post up where ... there is about a 99.63% failure rate of finding it locally.
The cover likely protects more of the FC from the sun.
The cover likely protects more of the FC from the sun.
be sure you do NOT buy the DPD test kit. The FAS-DPD kit included a small tub of greyish powder and a small blue scoop. This single difference will make a world of difference in the quality of your testing.
you need this:
This is the Leslie's version of what you DO want. It is typically only stocked in the "commercial" Leslies stores. $74.99
This is the WRONG kit, $61.99 online
This is what I have $68.99 and many of the reagents are larger than any of the ones above.
you need this:
This is the Leslie's version of what you DO want. It is typically only stocked in the "commercial" Leslies stores. $74.99
This is the WRONG kit, $61.99 online
This is what I have $68.99 and many of the reagents are larger than any of the ones above.
I have a leslie's by me, and I'm going there tonight. I hope the have the commercial one, if not I saw on Amazon for $50, if not maybe I'll order form them online. If they do have, and I test tonight and bring my FC to 12 as per shock level by adding liquid bleach, should I perform OCLT tonight, or perhaps wait a day??
If you end up ordering online, consider the TF-100. It is the kit of choice by many here...most bang for buck and fast shipping.
No Leslie's around here have it. I would recommend the TF100 from tftestkits.net as it has much more of the reagents you need. Otherwise they also sell the K-2006 for $46 ... and supports this site.
Doing the OCLT will confirm whether there is something organic in the pool. Certainly need to verify the CYA before you know the correct shock FC level.
Doing the OCLT will confirm whether there is something organic in the pool. Certainly need to verify the CYA before you know the correct shock FC level.
Save yourself the inconvenience. If you order now...it will likely ship today and it will be there in a day or two. I am sure Next Day is an option. They ship from either the east or west cost depending on where you are.
I was lucky enough to be close to the West Coast shipping point (Rocklin, CA) that I walked in and got mine.
I was lucky enough to be close to the West Coast shipping point (Rocklin, CA) that I walked in and got mine.
Hayward had me remove cover to chlorinator and turn on system, body filled, then drained, so obviously no blockage. I went to Leslie's and got the DPD kit, I specifically asked for the FAS-DPD kit, but once again, I got screwed by the summer help!!!
I tested anyway last night, and my FC was 5, and my TC was somewhere between 4-5, so I did not add liquid chlorine. I did the OCLT test this AM, and got the same readings, so it's possible the sample originally tested by them was an error??? The CYA test, I think I screwed up so will try to see if I can get that right in the next few days, but I did notice a bunch of white / tan clumps of powder on the pool floor, which I assume was the undissolved powder shock from the previous night?? Why wouldn't it all dissolve??? This am after brushing them up last night, there was noticeably less, but they were more brown in color?? Is this a new problem???
Also, not putting much stock into this, but one of the more knowledgeable staff @ Leslie's said if my algae issue continues, bring in another sample and test for "Nitrates" ????????????
This same staff member (maybe manager) looked @ me incredulously when I told him one of hos employee's advise I clean my chlorinator with MA!!!!
I tested anyway last night, and my FC was 5, and my TC was somewhere between 4-5, so I did not add liquid chlorine. I did the OCLT test this AM, and got the same readings, so it's possible the sample originally tested by them was an error??? The CYA test, I think I screwed up so will try to see if I can get that right in the next few days, but I did notice a bunch of white / tan clumps of powder on the pool floor, which I assume was the undissolved powder shock from the previous night?? Why wouldn't it all dissolve??? This am after brushing them up last night, there was noticeably less, but they were more brown in color?? Is this a new problem???
Also, not putting much stock into this, but one of the more knowledgeable staff @ Leslie's said if my algae issue continues, bring in another sample and test for "Nitrates" ????????????
This same staff member (maybe manager) looked @ me incredulously when I told him one of hos employee's advise I clean my chlorinator with MA!!!!
Nitrates are nonsense. I think it's time to stop going to that store.ohajoh22 said:
You can do it our way or do it the pool store way, but if you try both, you will get nowhere.
Symkowski has said what I told someone last night. Leslie's or TFP, not both.
My suggestion, Return the DPD kit and order the TF100 and put that store in your rear view mirror.
My suggestion, Return the DPD kit and order the TF100 and put that store in your rear view mirror.
The dpd kit is not much better than a cheapo OTO chlorine test. I would buy a FAS-DPD kit.
Let us know what your cya is.
Ignore the nitrates, if you maintain a proper level of chlorine (need you cya to know what it is) then nitrates do not matter.
Let us know what your cya is.
Ignore the nitrates, if you maintain a proper level of chlorine (need you cya to know what it is) then nitrates do not matter.
Once you know your cya level, I would bring the pool close to the appropriate shock level and redo the test.ohajoh22 said:
Your pools FC is a constantly moving number since it is being used to sanitize and oxidize. It is also used up by the sun. That is why it is imperative to have an accurate test that you can do ofter when dealing with issues.ohajoh22 said:
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