Need help with my green pool!

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Gfamily

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Jul 15, 2012
13
Would appreciate any help and assistance I can get

Hi, I am new to this website and forum and would appreciate any help and assistance I can get. I am not sensitive so if I'm really messing up my pool please tell me. The following is the information that was needed for my pool:

Tracy, ca
Cartridge filter
IG
Plaster

About 11-15 yrs old

About 13000 gallons

The following are my test results for my pool:
FC-.86ppm
No CC present
Ph-7.0
TA-80 ppm
CH-380 ppm
CYA-110 ppm

Thank you for any help!
 
Hi, I am new to this forum and need some help fixing my pool. Please dont be afraid to hurt my feelings I'm not sensitive I just need to know how to fix my pool. The following are the results my tests:

FC-.86ppm
No CC present
Ph-7.0
TA-80 ppm
CH-380 ppm
CYA-110 ppm

Thank you
 
OK, I can be blunt.

#1, I recommend replacing at least half the water in your pool to lower your CYA to the 40-50 range. A CYA of 110 make is very hard to manage your chlorine levels, especially if you get an algae bloom.
#2 Order a test kit, like the TF100, to be able to trust your results. In general, most here do not trust pool store testing that does not involve testing using reagents. Computer based testing ferquently is wildly inaccurate and is focused on selling you chemicals. In addition, most PS employees do not understand the CYA/Chlorine relationship.
#3 read the Pool School. The link is on the upper left corner of this page. The first concept to understand, at least in my opinion, is the relationship between CYA/stabilizer/conditioner and chlorine its effects on shocking a pool to kill algae and other organics.
#4 Add liquid chlorine/bleach to your pool immediately to kill and prevent algae.
#5 Add your information to your profile and signature so people know where you are, what type of pool you have, the type of pump and filter you have. Like mine.
#6 Stop going to the pool store if you feel they do not have your best interests in mind and can be trust.... or if they tell you liquid chlorine is the worst thing for your pool.

Oh... I forgot.. what does your water look like? clear, cloudy, milky, swampy?
 
techguy said:
OK, I can be blunt.

#1, I recommend replacing at least half the water in your pool to lower your CYA to the 40-50 range. A CYA of 110 make is very hard to manage your chlorine levels, especially if you get an algae bloom.
#2 Order a test kit, like the TF100, to be able to trust your results. In general, most here do not trust pool store testing that does not involve testing using reagents. Computer based testing ferquently is wildly inaccurate and is focused on selling you chemicals. In addition, most PS employees do not understand the CYA/Chlorine relationship.
#3 read the Pool School. The link is on the upper right corner of this page. The first concept to understand, at least in my opinion, is the relationship between CYA/stabilizer/conditioner and chlorine its effects on shocking a pool to kill algae and other organics.
#4 Add liquid chlorine/bleach to your pool immediately to kill and prevent algae.
#5 Add your information to your profile and signature so people know where you are, what type of pool you have, the type of pump and filter you have. Like mine.
#6 Stop going to the pool store if you feel they do not have your best interests in mind and can be trust.... or if they tell you liquid chlorine is the worst thing for your pool.

Oh... I forgot.. what does your water look like? clear, cloudy, milky, swampy?
Click to expand...
Hi Gfamily and welcome to TFP! :)
I corrected the (very small) mistake from Techguy. :wink:
The advise is right on. :goodjob:
Get a proper test test and we can help you have a perfect pool!
Test kits here:
http://tftestkits.net/splash-page.html

The preferred kit of choice is the TF-100 and if you have a ugly green pool :oops: get the XL option, this would be very helpful in the long run for testing without running out of reagents clearing up your pool.
More info on test kits here:
pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison
Once you have your kit follow instructions here:
what-we-need-to-know-to-answer-your-questions-t10341.html

I know this can be a little overwhelming at first but will become so elementary soon. :cheers:

Chuck
 
Re: Would appreciate any help and assistance I can get

Welcome to TFP.

The first thing you need to do is get some chlorine in there. Add about 1½ large jugs of bleach.
Then you need to drain about 50% of your water.

While you're doing that you need to order a good test kit and read all you can in Pool School.

How do you normally chlorinate your pool?
 
Re: Would appreciate any help and assistance I can get

Off to with you!

Your days of puck chlorination are over. You need to lose about half your water and refill it.

The single best thing you can do is get a proper test kit. They ain't cheap, but I bet it will be less than one trip to the pool store. And the pool store almost certainly won't have the kit you need. Skip the headache and go to http://www.poolsupplyworld.com/poolsupp ... TF-100.htm

It's the new west coast distributor, just outside Sacratomato, so you'll have it quick.
 
Ok thanks techguy! My pool is cloudy and turning green. I have the Taylor K-2006 test kit, is that comparable with the TF-100? It comes with reagents.

Thanks for the input greatly appreciated!
 

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If you have the CL test that uses a powder, you are good to go with your test kit.

Have you tested your pool with your kit? I see the first posting included a two decimal value that indicates its a pool store computer of unknown accuracy. teh reagent based tests, when done carefully, are much more accurate but show either 0.2 ppm or 0.5 resolution which is great for what we are doing. The reslution difference are dependent on using different sized sample volumes. 0.5 ppm is sufficient for most of our needs.

The CYA test can be challenging at first. The pool school has detailed instructions and the sample can be poured back into the squeeze bottle to re-test several times until you get a consistent answer. If you test and get a CYA value close to 100 ppm, the value may be much higher than 100ppm and you should consider doing a 50/50 test and doubling the results. To do the dilution test, mix pool water with bottled or distilled water 50/50 in the squeeze bottle before adding the CYA solution. When you do this, you double the results you get. If the test reads about 50ppm, it is really around 100ppm. If the dilute test comes back at 75, your cya is closer to 150.

A pool with CYA 100+ is very difficult to maintain clear and sparkly.
 
There is sooo much to learn in life and I feel the first step is to learn what you don't know.

I have learned so much just reading the postings here... and formulating answers to help people.

Glad I was helpful.
 
Gfamily said:
Ok thanks techguy! My pool is cloudy and turning green. I have the Taylor K-2006 test kit, is that comparable with the TF-100? It comes with reagents.

Thanks for the input greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...
The Taylor K-2006 is fine but how did you get a .86 number for your FC? The FAS-DPD test for FC is in multibles of .2 for the large sample and .5 for the small sample. Do you have the FAS-DPD test in your kit? It's the one with the powder that turns the sample pink.
 
I have the FAS-DPD. I got the results when I multiplied the number of drops needed from the R-0871 reagent to change water from pink to colorless (43) with the drop equivalence found in step 1 which was 1 drop= 0.2 ppm. Sounds like I did it wrong
 
OK... well test results or not, like in Pool School: You need to :shaking2: SHOCK! your pool

Shock Your Pool LINK

You should adjust your PH before shocking IF your FC is less than 10FC based on your test kit's PH tester.

So... short answer.... pour in some bleach and get your pump running.
 

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