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Thread: FC level while waiting for CYA, and will CYA decrease TA?

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    FC level while waiting for CYA, and will CYA decrease TA?

    I am wondering how often I should be monitoring my chlorine levels while I wait for CYA to do its thing. I just put it in a newly filled pool yesterday. What level should FC be? I can only find levels with CYA readings.

    And also, my TA is high. Should I worry about that right now, or could the CYA help to lower it?

    Probably for at least a day I will not be able to run my pump, in case that makes a difference.

    Here are test results today, I am mostly looking at how fast the chlorine is going away. It has been sunny most of the day.

    9:30 am - TC=5+, more like 7, pH=8.2+, CH = didn't test, TA=120

    11:30 pm- FC=1.5, CC=.5, pH=8.2, TA=110

    1:30 pm - TC=undetectable, pH=8.2

    Do I need to really stock up on chlorine to keep levels high for the next week, and then will I need to shock, so I will need even more before I will be able to be on maintenance dose clorox?

    Thanks
    18-20,000 gal?, sand filter, IG vinyl, 1 HP 2-speed pump

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: FC level while waiting for CYA, and will CYA decrease TA

    Quote Originally Posted by reluctantpoolmom
    I am wondering how often I should be monitoring my chlorine levels while I wait for CYA to do its thing. I just put it in a newly filled pool yesterday. What level should FC be? I can only find levels with CYA readings.
    A day after it has disappeared in the water assume it is in there and use your the target you were shooting at for your chlorine levels. Until then don't let FC drop below 1 ppm...keep it up around 3 ppm when you dose. Wait a week after adding the cya then test for it and adjust your FC levels to what you measure.

    Quote Originally Posted by reluctantpoolmom
    And also, my TA is high. Should I worry about that right now, or could the CYA help to lower it?
    cya will have little effect on TA. If you TA is high, then most likely you will often have to bring it down with Muriatic Acid. Lower ph to 7.2 whenever it gets to 7.8 and you TA will come down slowly.

    Quote Originally Posted by reluctantpoolmom
    Probably for at least a day I will not be able to run my pump, in case that makes a difference.
    Make sure you do a lot of mixing using a brush or swimmers after you add your chlorine (brush first then swimmers).

    Quote Originally Posted by reluctantpoolmom
    Here are test results today, I am mostly looking at how fast the chlorine is going away. It has been sunny most of the day.

    Quote Originally Posted by reluctantpoolmom
    Do I need to really stock up on chlorine to keep levels high for the next week, and then will I need to shock, so I will need even more before I will be able to be on maintenance dose clorox?
    What does you water look like? If you don't let the pool get algae, by being vigilant with keeping FC up, then you shouldn't' need to shock.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: FC level while waiting for CYA, and will CYA decrease TA

    [/quote]cya will have little effect on TA. If you TA is high, then most likely you will often have to bring it down with Muriatic Acid. Lower ph to 7.2 whenever it gets to 7.8 and you TA will come down slowly.

    OK. My TA was low, but then I added less than the amount that the calculator called for of baking soda and now it is high. Now that I think about it, I also added borax, so maybe the combo increased both pH and TA too much. The rain here is 6.8 or maybe quite a bit less sometimes, and it rains a lot, so maybe that will decrease it over time without having to add acid?? That brings up another question. What to do if it rains and the water level rises up too high? I already see it creeping up and we have only had a few quick showers.

    [/quote]Make sure you do a lot of mixing using a brush or swimmers after you add your chlorine (brush first then swimmers).

    i know we have a brush attachment, but I don't know what brushing means, and I don't know what swimmers are?

    Quote Originally Posted by reluctantpoolmom
    Here are test results today, I am mostly looking at how fast the chlorine is going away. It has been sunny most of the day.
    What does you water look like? If you don't let the pool get algae, by being vigilant with keeping FC up, then you shouldn't' need to shock.[/quote]

    OK, thanks. My water looks fine to me. I can see clearly down to the 8 1/2 ft deep end from in my house, it might be tinged a slight yellowish when looking through that much water (we have a brand new plain blue liner), but I don't know if that is just being persnickety.

    Yay! Maybe I can do this! The water is looking so nice right now that I really don't want to mess it up.
    18-20,000 gal?, sand filter, IG vinyl, 1 HP 2-speed pump

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: FC level while waiting for CYA, and will CYA decrease TA

    Quote Originally Posted by reluctantpoolmom
    OK. My TA was low, but then I added less than the amount that the calculator called for of baking soda and now it is high. Now that I think about it, I also added borax, so maybe the combo increased both pH and TA too much. The rain here is 6.8 or maybe quite a bit less sometimes, and it rains a lot, so maybe that will decrease it over time without having to add acid?? That brings up another question. What to do if it rains and the water level rises up too high? I already see it creeping up and we have only had a few quick showers.
    Borax does increase ph. Only time will tell if the rain does much to lower ph...make sure you test this fairly of tern (daily). Use borax to raise it, and Muriatic Acid to lower.

    High water levels can be drained from the pool by moving your filter valve to "waste" and pump it out.

    Quote Originally Posted by reluctantpoolmom
    i know we have a brush attachment, but I don't know what brushing means, and I don't know what swimmers are?
    If you have to add chemicals with the pump off (which we don't recommend but happens sometimes), then brush the walls of the pool (good to do anyways) to help mix the chlorine. By "swimmers" I meant people swimming. People swimming make good pool water mixers, but you should do the brushing step after adding chlorine, before having your people mixers do their job.

    Quote Originally Posted by reluctantpoolmom
    Yay! Maybe I can do this!
    You CAN do this
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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