# Thread: Testing with T100

1. ## Testing with T100

Well I just used our new T100 kit and I must admit I am a bit overwhelmed

It all seemed easy reading before I did the testing

Please tell me What you all think.
We use dichloro & trichloro

FC=.25
CC=.1
TC=.35? I believe? / .25+.1=.35? is that how it is done?
PH= 6.8
TA=100
CH=230
CYA=75-80

2. ## Re: Testing with T100

Okay I need to edit a little..it is the TF-100 test kit. not T100
Upon plugging numbers into the pool calculator, some things became more obvious..
1- I added to the (Cyanuric acid ) only 3-5 days ago.
2- I have been going back and forth with the PH and TA for a week now slowly trying to get our PH higher.
3- Pool is in strong sunlight 10-11 hours a day
4-I have had to add a lot of well water this year because of drought, we almost never have to add water here in the north east.
5-the pool looks GREAT, I am just not sure about the TF-100 numbers

3. ## Re: Testing with T100

Good Afternoon H969:

Your math is correct: FC + CC = TC. Given your numbers, FC is very low for your CYA level. I would also stop using dichlor/trichlor since both add CYA and yours is right on the edge of high. I would switch to bleach / liquid chlorine immediately. Otherwise, you are looking at a partial drain & refill to get CYA down. Also, do not add any more stabilizer (CYA). The target FC is 9 given a CYA of 80, per Chlorine CYA Chart.

pH is low. I would increase that ASAP to be within the range of 7.2 - 7.8. Increase pH by using Washing Soda, Soda Ash, or Borates. Note that Washing Soda is not the same as Baking Soda.

Use the Pool Calculator for dosing amounts for your pool. Input 28,000 as the amount of gallons along with your current readings. In the target section, input FC target of 9 and pH target of 7.5. Your other numbers look fine. FC and pH are the primary items that need to be adjusted, given your numbers. Adjusting your pH takes priority over TA right now. Regarding CYA, you are right on the edge. If you are planning a trip in the near future and you are forced to use pucks while you are gone and if no one will be there to manually dose with bleach / liquid chlorine, then I would do a partial drain & refill now to get CYA between 30 - 50.

Check the links in my signature and become familiar with the relationship between CYA and FC level. Forget forever the traditional wisdom of maintaining a FC level between 1 - 3 ppm. That's asking for an algae bloom.

4. ## Re: Testing with T100

How do you get a fraction of .25 of FC ?
One drop=0.5 in my kit.

5. ## Re: Testing with T100

How do you get a fraction of .25 of FC ?
One drop=0.5 in my kit.
Yeah, you can't get .25 or .1 like you report if you are using a 10ml sample. Review that match and multiply the # of drops by .5.....it does get a lot easier the more you do it.

6. ## Re: Testing with T100

You all are great!!
I had my decimal in the wrong place, that was messing with my head

So now we have this....
FC 12.5
CC 1.0
TC 13.5 so this is high, right?
TA 100 is low, should be 120?
CH 230
CYA 75 is too high, and I need to go to liquid chlorine.

Because of the drought and adding water and it was eating up the Trichlor & Dichlor and I had no way of testing for the CYA ( Having lost my Synergy distributor ) I thought I had to add on the CYA ( or after reading here, it has built up over the years ) but by adding I did not help myself, but I was just flying by the seat of my pants..

7. ## Re: Testing with T100

What does the water look like? Your CC level of 1parts shows something is consuming some of your chlorine. I would suggest shocking to kill it off.

Raise your FC level to 21 and keep it there. Check often and raise the level back up to 21. You should see the 1CC drop quickly if I'd guess. Your other levels look somewhat good (no more Pucks). Your CYA level could be lowered to about 50 (unless you've got a SWG) but I myself wouldnt drain just to lower it at this point. Unless your pool is very green and you see yourself needing alot of chlorine to stay at the 21CYA level.

8. ## Re: Testing with T100

The water is clear, but turning green every couple hours, ( if I put the Pucks in, when I take them out it gets crystal clear again ) but I am fighting Iron, from all the well water i had to pump in, where I live I almost never have to put water ( maybe once a year, for the last 35 years ) and when I do The Iron out stuff I used to get was all out and I had to try a new kind...

9. ## Re: Testing with T100

If you're seeing green at all you need to shock. Quit using pucks or powder shock. You're right there on needing to drain. Use only liquid from here on our. Shocking will be at a high FC level(all will be ok...) but after that youre FC level will be easy to keep. Read pool school on shocking and get ready for a new pool.

10. ## Re: Testing with T100

If it's only turning green after you add chlorine it's most likely the iron turning it green. The bottom line is that you need more sequestrant.

11. ## Re: Testing with T100

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler
If it's only turning green after you add chlorine it's most likely the iron turning it green. The bottom line is that you need more sequestrant.
Thats exactly what I thought and did, so that it was fine after the added sequestrant, thank you for reading the full post!
Past experiance and using a new sequestrant, plus learning the BBB Method with the new TF-100 had me overwhelmed for a couple day's

I have a sample of water I took this am before the sun came up on the pool as I am atempting the OCLT, (You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & You have .5ppm CC's or less) & your water is clear.
Thanks again to everybody here for all the great help!!!

Wish me luck!!!

12. ## Re: Testing with T100

Good luck. But you won't really need it. You'll have this thing under control in no time.

13. ## Re: Testing with T100

Ok so here is my OCLT results...
Last night/ Today 8am
FC 29 / 23
CC .5 / 0
TC 29.5 / 23
Crystal clear/ Crystal clear

So that means I have to shock some more? Correct? Because of the 6 point drop in the FC?

Edit: PH 7.8
TA 120
CH 180
CYA 78

14. ## Re: Testing with T100

Was the sun on the pool this morning? If it wasn't, just keep it at shock level. If it was you need to keep it at shock level and make sure the sun isn't on the pool at either testing time.

15. ## Re: Testing with T100

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler
Was the sun on the pool this morning? If it wasn't, just keep it at shock level. If it was you need to keep it at shock level and make sure the sun isn't on the pool at either testing time.
Okay yes that's what I ment, I got called out to work so I did nothing But we have to do what we have to do!
Thanks for the help Bama Rambler I am so almost there!!!

16. ## Re: Testing with T100

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler
Was the sun on the pool this morning? If it wasn't, just keep it at shock level. If it was you need to keep it at shock level and make sure the sun isn't on the pool at either testing time.
I took a sample before the sun hit it and then tested like 5 hours later and those were the results, it dropped by 6 points and when I checked at 6:30 tonight it dropped another 6 points to FC 17 but this time the CC was .5 it just barely turned pink after the five drops, but I pumped well water into the pool for an one and a half hours also sooo... I don't know, I Just brought it back up to FC 35.5 and will check again in the morning

17. ## Re: Testing with T100

If you held the sample for 5 hours before testing the test is invalid. The FC and CC can change if you hold a sample that long before testing it.

Just hold it at shock level and test it tonight and again in the morning. I know how life can get in the way of things.

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