pool store test

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-solo30-

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Jul 13, 2012
9
NC
Hi im new here posting but read alot of you guys stuff and still trying to learn. My ? is i put my pool up and while waiting for my salt in pool to dissolve I got the dreaded green water since temp were near 100 when i got to put my pool up. Ok after fighting the green finally got my pool water to clear but still had some combined chlorine since I had a chlorine smell so I tried to super shock it last nite added 4lbs of tricolor hope that got me there to the breakpoint but I just have test strips and cheap drop kit from wally world (I know going to order Taylor kit but funds are low right now :shock:) so not sure I hit the mark any ways I took my pool water to my local pool store and had them to analyze my water but was confused with the results my test strips about 11am this morn had my FC at over 10 my TC at over 10, cya 50ppm, alk @ 80ppm Ph around 7.8 ok now i took a sample to my pool store and here are my results. (took sample about 2:30 this evening to pool store)
FC 0.7ppm
TC 0.9ppm
CC 0.3PPM
PH 6.8
Hardness 130ppm
ALK 0ppm
CYA 10ppm
Copper 0.16ppm (salt gen has copper)
Iron 0.06ppm
Borate 80ppm
Salt 4000ppm (dont under stand this one since I added correct amount at startup and have pumped to waste several times look like it would be low ?)
would like to note that pool store uses a electronic water analyzer and prints results out of computer. My ? is if I should trust there results since I have such a big diffidence from my strips they did not try to sell me a bunch of stuff just some baking soda for my ph and alk
 
What size pool?
What does the cheap Wally world chlorine test show you?
Did you use any other chemicals other then the 4 lbs tri chlor?
When we know that we can get better idea of you cya

But not much can be done until you get a better test kit
Maybe the tf50 from tftestkits.com might fit budget
Without a good test kit you can and probably will spend more on chemicals then the cost of kit and still not solve your cc issue

In the mean time read and reread pool school
Shocking is not a one time addition of chems it is a process.
 
my pool is an 20ft round above ground 9440 gallons, well it hard to tell the wally world ph and fc test only goes to 5 on the fc and ph read low yes i used 5 1lb bag of dichlor the week before added one a day for 5 days thinking i was shocking which i wasent getting my chlorine levels up high enuff read the pool school on shocking and decided to add the 4 1lb bags of the trichlor last nite maybe i did not add enuff since i really had no way of knowing my CC levels and how much i had to raise my chlorine to get the break point. still smells a little like chlorine so I took my water to my pool store and had them to check untill funds can come for a good test kit (I get paid next week lol) but there test showed nothing like i would have expected i tested with my strips and the cheapo drop test before i left and had total diff results then my pool store did. should i trust there test or stay with my test strips because if you look at there test it does not look that bad they used an electronic test i previously post what my test shown and what there test showed just wonder why the big diff in the test and which one to trust till i can afford a good test kit myself
 
Sad fact is you can't trust either until you have your own good test kit
The "cheapo drop ph test will be accurate so you can adjust your ph

You can use pool calculator to figure what your cya roughly is by useing the effects tab

I would run the numbers but kind of hard on my iPod right now

You can add a specuc amount if chlorine and test an hour later to see if your test strips match your predicted outcome
 
You don't need the full TF100 test kit. It's nice... but you have most of what you need already.

You can buy the refill reagents now, because you've got all the tools you need in your HTH kit except the tiny little scoop.

At TFTestkits.net you can either buy TFTestkits reagents, which are of larger quantities, or you can buy the Taylor reagents which are a bit cheaper (~$3 each). TFTestkits are a better value though.

You need:
R-0870
R-0871
R-0003
R-0013 (CYA reagent)
blue tiny scoop ($.15)

Add these reagents to your kit, and you're good to go.
 
ok just got my TF100 test kit in today(awesome kit btw) had to wait until after church to test water if i done right here the number I got
FC- 40PPM been high like this for at least a week and 1/2 just now got test to read that high i shocked it a week and 1/2 ago i did not know how much to put in so i added a little more then i should i guess :)
CC- 1
TT- 41 ?
TA- 190
CH- 170PPM
CYA- 45-50 ISH
PH- 8.2 Added muratic acid two days ago and it dropped to 7.4 but now has jumped back up
now where do i go from here ?
 
-solo30- said:
ok just got my TF100 test kit in today(awesome kit btw) had to wait until after church to test water if i done right here the number I got
FC- 40PPM been high like this for at least a week and 1/2 just now got test to read that high i shocked it a week and 1/2 ago i did not know how much to put in so i added a little more then i should i guess :)
CC- 1
TT- 41 ?
TA- 190
CH- 170PPM
CYA- 45-50 ISH
PH- 8.2 Added muratic acid two days ago and it dropped to 7.4 but now has jumped back up
now where do i go from here ?
Click to expand...
With FC that high, your pH reading is suspect. One thing's for sure - you don't need to add any more bleach right now. And I'd turn down the saltwater generator, too. Save your reagents, there's no point testing anything but FC & CC with the FAS-DPD setup (powder and R-0871 drops) until the water is clear, there's no more CC, and you can pass an overnight loss test
 

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