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Thread: First test with Taylor K-2006

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    First test with Taylor K-2006

    Ok, got my kit and was finally able to do a test. I've been adding Clorox for the past couple of days now at a rate of about 1.5 jugs (182oz jugs) per night. On my 'stick' test (not worth junk) That was showing chlorine in the pool each night at somewhere around a 10. So here's the full set of numbers

    FC .4 (this was taken at the very end of the day before adding chlorine for the night)
    CC .6
    PH 7.0
    TA 170
    CH 70
    CYA insane - using the Taylor kit it was covered at about the 1.8ml marking. The stick test was showing it at about 150. I like that the Leslie's guys never bothered to point out to me that this was a problem. I'm well aware of the need to replace the water, my schedule just hasn't allowed. I am set to swap out about 1/3 of the water next Thursday.

    So other than the CYA problem, I can see with the CC it still must have a little something in the water. The water IS clear now, and at least I have some sort of PH thanks to no longer pumping in tabs and shock. Other than a shock until the OCLT shows I'm clear and changing out the water for the CYA, is there anything I'm missing.
    Neil

    22,000 gallon vinyl in ground (17ft x 33ft) built in 1996, Pentair Whisperflo 1HP [2007] running into a Pentair Sand Dollar SD80 (75 GPM flow) [2007] and Rheem 266A Digital Gas Heater [2013], Liquidator [2013], full sun. And a UDS.

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: First test with Taylor K-2006

    You gotta get some chlorine in there now, before it turns green on you! Just for argument, if your CYA is 150, FC should be no lower than 11. That's going to take a bunch of bleach. If it turns out that you've only lost 2 or 3 ppm in 24 hours, you should be fine until you can swap out some water. You'll still need to replenish the bleach to stay above 11. If the water is clear right now, don't be surprised if CC drops to nothing. And if it does, you get to avoid the shock process altother and can get on with balancing chemicals after the refill.

    At those levels, a 10 ml sample is good enough for testing FC. Each drop counts as .5 then. Saves reagent.

    To get a better idea of CYA, dilute your pool water 50/50 with tap water and repeat the CYA test. Don't forget to pour the sample back into the mixing bottle and take another reading. It takes practice. When you get several that match, that's your number. Double it, and that's your CYA level. Be sure to use that level when determining your target FC.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Re: First test with Taylor K-2006

    I just retested water after adding the chlorine over an hour ago. FC is a 7 and CC is existent but less than .5. I'm out of Clorox so I'll have to head to the store tomorrow. I'll check the FC again first thing tomorrow AM.

    As for the CYA, I did the dilute 50/50 and (gulp) STILL didn't get to 100. In fact, I didn't get half way to 100 in the tube. That sucks.
    Neil

    22,000 gallon vinyl in ground (17ft x 33ft) built in 1996, Pentair Whisperflo 1HP [2007] running into a Pentair Sand Dollar SD80 (75 GPM flow) [2007] and Rheem 266A Digital Gas Heater [2013], Liquidator [2013], full sun. And a UDS.

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