I am new to the Sws. We have a 14x42 intel pool with the Sws. Just a few days ago the walls became slimy where the sum doesn't hit. I tested the pool today and I have a reading of 0 FC and a PH of 7.2 my salt water level is reading 2260 ppm. The Sws runs for 1 hr and we have boosted it twice! Should I add more salt? Can I add liquid chlorine? Do I add algaecide? I have a three way tester do I need to test something else? No quite sure what to do. I have read so many different things ..... Thanks! :-D
New Sws owner/ slimy pool walls/ low fc
- Thread starter Mjbjlemu
- Start date
Welcome to tfp, Mjbjlemu 
What does your water look like?
With no chlorine in your pool you are at risk for getting algae...as you have found out (the slimy stuff most likely).
You will need to do the shocking process. During shocking leave your swg (saltwater chlorine generator) portion of your system off and just use bleach/liquid chlorine to raise and hold the chlorine level above you FC shocking level.
Test kits: to do the shocking process most efficiently you will benefit from a approapriate test kit. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison I prefer the TF-100, most bang for buck.
What does your water look like?
With no chlorine in your pool you are at risk for getting algae...as you have found out (the slimy stuff most likely).
You will need to do the shocking process. During shocking leave your swg (saltwater chlorine generator) portion of your system off and just use bleach/liquid chlorine to raise and hold the chlorine level above you FC shocking level.
Test kits: to do the shocking process most efficiently you will benefit from a approapriate test kit. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison I prefer the TF-100, most bang for buck.
No, algaecide is best used to prevent algae and is generally not needed when proper chlorine levels are maintained.Mjbjlemu said:
Welcome to TFP!!!
To add to what linen said ...
You need to follow the shock process. To do that correctly you need a good test kit.
To start the process, you need a CYA level of around 30ppm CYA to protect the FC from the sun.
When you finish the process, you need to raise your CYA up around 70-80ppm, get your salt level in range, and then likely be running your SWG for a LOT longer than 1 hour.
While waiting, read through Pool School (button at the upper right of the page) a few times.
To add to what linen said ...
You need to follow the shock process. To do that correctly you need a good test kit.
To start the process, you need a CYA level of around 30ppm CYA to protect the FC from the sun.
When you finish the process, you need to raise your CYA up around 70-80ppm, get your salt level in range, and then likely be running your SWG for a LOT longer than 1 hour.
While waiting, read through Pool School (button at the upper right of the page) a few times.
After you go through the Shocking Process as linen pointed out you need to run the SWCG more than what you are.
On mine I run mine 3 hours a day with a CYA level of 50, I know this is below the recommended cYA level but for now my pool stays clear and maintains a FC level of 9 ppm.
Your salt level is also below the Intex recommended amount.
On mine I run mine 3 hours a day with a CYA level of 50, I know this is below the recommended cYA level but for now my pool stays clear and maintains a FC level of 9 ppm.
Your salt level is also below the Intex recommended amount.