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Thread: TA and pH - new pool owner

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Dallas, Texas
    Posts
    48

    TA and pH - new pool owner

    Hello all,

    I have had my pool about two months now. I am in Texas and my pool is a SWG that is in sun all day until about 7:45PM.
    My question is well many, but I will stick with the pH TA relationship. I am ordering the Taylor K-2006 test kit that I have read about on here many time, but right now I am using the Stanley that the PB gave me. My stats as of 6PM yesterday evening are

    FC = 2.0 (which says ideal on my kit)
    Combined Chlorine = was the same after the 2-3 minutes they tell me to wait
    PH = 7.6 (my tester stinks and the 7.6 and 7.8 color bars have gotten water in them so it is hard to match)
    Acid Demand Test = it took 2 drops to get it to 7.2 and the book says don't count the drop that takes it to 7.2, so 1 drop which calls for 1 pint of muriatic acid at that level.
    TA = 90 (it took 9 drops to get the blue water in the test vial to a clear and 10 drops to get to a yellowish color, so I am guessing between 90-100)

    So, my question is my PB says my water looks great and it does look clear to me too, but what the heck do I know...LOL. I am worried that by having to add muriatic once a week that my TA will continue to lower and lower. I don't know if that is true or not. I can maintain my PH with the muriatic but am getting nervous because I have seen the TA drop as I have added muriatic (maybe it has nothing to do with that, I don't know). Let me explain, when we started the pool my TA was 170 ish and it has dropped over the two months as I have added muriatic to maintain PH. So I don't know if the TA will level out and not drop any more or if it even relates to PH.

    Also, I am not able to test CYA yet until my Taylor arrives. My PB tested it two weeks ago and said it was about 20 so I added some stabalizer granules (about 4 lbs based on his recommendation) shorly after that but haven't been able to test it since. I am thinking that is why I stay at 2.0 FC on almost every check. I run my pumps/filter/SWG from 10AM to 6PM every day. My SWG is at 95%.

    On last question (guess I lied about having one question up at the top...LOL). I had a bout with those little bugs (boatman/backswimmers). I read on here and elsewhere about Biogaurd and bought and used Biogaurd Back-Up and it took care of them. My question is do I need to maintain the 4oz per week of back up or if my FC was higher would it eliminate the algae that they are liking thus eliminating them / keep them away. Are the bugs there because my FC is too low or is algaecide just something that pools require. I would love to use as little chemicals as possible.

    Sorry for the rambling on my first post but I am a newbie...LOL
    IG, Gunitie/Plaster (darker blue "lagoon" color), Jandy 1400 SWG (with inline chlorinator option), Jandy AquaLink System w/ 2 HP pump motor, 20,000-23,000 gals, spillway from spa to pool runs when pump is on, waterfall feature and bubbler on tanning ledge, pool is in full sun all day (Dallas Texas), Polaris automatic cleaner, Taylor K-2006 test kit

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Dallas, Texas
    Posts
    48

    Re: TA and pH - new pool owner

    Sorry forgot to add. It is an IG pool with a cartridge filter about 18-20,000 gallons really not sure cause it is a free form pool. I used the length x width of a rectangular pool and followed that formula. It is gunite/plaster.
    IG, Gunitie/Plaster (darker blue "lagoon" color), Jandy 1400 SWG (with inline chlorinator option), Jandy AquaLink System w/ 2 HP pump motor, 20,000-23,000 gals, spillway from spa to pool runs when pump is on, waterfall feature and bubbler on tanning ledge, pool is in full sun all day (Dallas Texas), Polaris automatic cleaner, Taylor K-2006 test kit

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    4,052

    Re: TA and pH - new pool owner

    2 ppm FC is a bit low.

    Continually adding muriatic acid will lower your TA. You can bring it back up with baking soda.

    Getting your CYA up to around 70 will allow you to more easily maintain your FC of 3-4 ppm, and you may be able to do so even if you lower the output of the SWG.

    Using borates has run bugs off for some, me included. It should also make it easier for you to hold your pH more easily. This thread has more info on that.
    so-you-want-to-add-borates-to-your-pool-why-and-how-t4921.html
    Built in 1957 44,000 gallon in-ground, Wet Edge Primera Stone in Sky Blue, Intelliflo VF Pump, 600 lb. Pentair Triton II TR-100 Sand Filter, CircuPool RG 60 Plus SWG, TF-100 test kit
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  4. Back To Top    #4

    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Dallas, Texas
    Posts
    48

    Re: TA and pH - new pool owner

    Thanks Robbie...I am ordering the Taylor now.
    IG, Gunitie/Plaster (darker blue "lagoon" color), Jandy 1400 SWG (with inline chlorinator option), Jandy AquaLink System w/ 2 HP pump motor, 20,000-23,000 gals, spillway from spa to pool runs when pump is on, waterfall feature and bubbler on tanning ledge, pool is in full sun all day (Dallas Texas), Polaris automatic cleaner, Taylor K-2006 test kit

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