Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward customer

Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

jblizzle said:
UnderWaterVanya said:
jblizzle said:
Remember the mallet trick when you go to put this contraption together to help get you snug :goodjob:

What trick is that? Still new to this and I have a similar filter.

See my first post in this thread.


:goodjob: Sorry I missed it somehow when I was skimming back. Thanks!
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

In a pinch (when I could not find my mallet), I used a regular hammer and a block of wood to cushion the blow.
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

The other thing to remember is that you don't have to crank down on it until the bones in your knuckels crack.

The steel band that goes around the tank is what is holding the pressure. It keeps the top from popping off of the base. The bolt and nut just serves to keep the band around the unit and seated correctly in order to compress the seal. If you make sure the band is seated correctly (i.e. the mallet trick) all you need to do is snug up the nut and bolt, you don't have to torque the life out of it.


-dave
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

I had the same problem today with my Hayward C-3000 Filter Housing. After cleaning my four cartridge filters, I could not tighten the big stainless steel band that secured the lid. One of the 2 brass sleeve nuts stripped out that is pictured in earlier posts of this thread. AND, Hayward has no replacement part. What to do?
I found a regular stainless steel nut in my junk box just the right thread and used it in place of the bad brass sleeve nut.
I could not use the big coil spring which helps prevent over tightening but left about a 1/4 inch gap between the clamp ends. Also, the other side of my clamp still has the original parts including the big coil spring. Proper tension (tightening) is very important.
I did NOT go searching at my local hardware store for a threaded sleeve.
Be sure to follow this thread from the beginning for photos.
Hope this helps others with this or similar problems.
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

I had the same problem with my DEX2400J clamp assembly. The threads inside the brass sleeve/nut stripped. Since the threads on the bolt were still good, I replaced the brass sleeve with a metric hex nut which I bought at Home Depot. The size of the metric hex nut is M8-1.0. Good Luck - jbrucker
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

danpik said:
unfortunatly I can not help you with the parts you need but, I can offer some advice when dealing with sticky, stubborn threaded components. first of all, WD-40 is one of the worst lubricants known to man. The basic makup of this product is about 90% kerosene and 10% light oil.
I read this today when catching up on this post and just couldn't let the WD-40 comment go. No matter whether WD-40 is one of the best or worst lubricants may be up for debate, but the basic make up of it isn't 90% kerosene. In fact, it has no kerosene.

From the company web site: "What does WD-40 Multi-Use Product contain?
While the ingredients in WD-40 Multi-Use Product are secret, we can tell you what it does NOT contain. WD-40 Multi-Use Product does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, graphite, or chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs)."
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

Another with a stripped "nut-in-molded-handle".

The male threads were good, so I used a mil-spec castle nut and washer (don't ask).
The nut, unfortunately, needs to be threaded up about 2", and must be completely removed to open an ancient Sta-Rite filter.

Here's what I have to add:
find a deep socket to reach the 2" to the nut and a speed-driver (the crank-type) wrench. Takes about 15 seconds to run through those 2".
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

Since Hayward doesn't offer a fix for the broken/stripped bolt and clamp on their old DE filters other then to buy a new filter ($600) I had to come up with my own fix. it's pretty easy to get the old bolt out, just bend the metal and twist out the T bolt and the attached sleeve. Bend the sleeve that's around the T part of the bolt until the bolt comes out. Save the spring and thick SS washers. Here's the fix and it cost around $6. Buy a 6"- 5/16" stainless carriage bolt and grind or cut two opposite sides of the round head flush with the square part under the head. Slide the old sleeve back on and bend back (as much as possible) into place. Bend the metal on the filter clamp a little more and re-install the bolt. The bolt should slide through the other side of the of the filter clamp. Re-install washers and spring. Then get a 5/16" barrel nut (more threads) that fits the bolt. Couldn't find a SS one but also didn't look that hard. Also added a couple of regular 5/16" SS washers for the heck of it. The Hayward barrel nuts are available (pretty expensive) and then you would have to make sure your bolt thread pattern was the same. But I'm totally fine with my way. Good luck.
 

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Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

hbaker. Just found your post on stripped nut. I now have the same problem and the thread didn't answer how you might have solved the problemm Thanks for your kind attention. I live in dallas jack1944
 
Re: Stripped Hayward Nut / Newly Disgruntled Hayward custome

hbaker. Just found your post on stripped nut. I now have the same problem and the thread didn't answer how you might have solved the problemm Thanks for your kind attention. I live in dallas jack1944
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!
They have not logged in since Dec 2012 ... so I am not sure you will get an answer from them
 
I had the same problem yesterday and called two pool supply places. A local pool supply store, All Clear just says that the part is obsolete and to just replace the whole filter. I called another local company, Best Pool Supply and they told me they could "re-tap" the threads and provide new sleeve nuts. Sure enough they gave me 2 new sleeve nuts and re-threaded the bolts for $60.00. Now I'm back in business. I'm in North Cal, but hopefully there are other local stores in your area that provide the same service.
 
In case anybody is interested, I had to buy a new clamp assembly from Amazon. You have to search long and hard to find the part number, but even though it is listed for a different filter, it works. The part number is [h=1]Hayward DEX2421JKIT DE and Cartridge Filter Clamp and Seal Kit[/h]
 
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