TF-100 chemicals and CH question

Cajun

0
Dec 16, 2011
124
Prosper, Texas
First big thanks to all. I have been using the BBB method for 3 months and the water looks great. I'm almost to a point where I could add chemicals without even taking measurements just by looking at the pool and knowing what I added last. I always try to guess before testing.

I do have a question about chemicals for the test kit. At first I was testing weekly but now it's every 10-14 days between testing (asside from daily or every other day OTO and PH test). When I test I was testing everything. I am needing to order more r-0010, r-0012 and r-0013. Just curious as to why the kit had fewer test for CH and CYA than the other ones. Should I be testing these less often?

Also I have been testing my neighbors pool and I converted them over the bbb method as well. Their CH was over 500 but now it's around 470. Everything I read says they will need to drain but is that really the case or will this drop over time? Also how bad is this level, what are the downsides of it being this high. (her pool is inground chlorine and plaster)

TIA
 
Just curious as to why the kit had fewer test for CH and CYA than the other ones. Should I be testing these less often?
Yes. CYA and CH are both reasonably stable and I suggest testing them only 4-6 times during a swim season.

We try to keep the chemistry in sensible quantities to control the cost. The R-0010 is a pretty good example.....it's a fairly expensive reagent so we put it in .5oz bottles but that is still enough to perform the CH test 16+ times.

CYA (R-0013) is not so expensive but you use a good bit of it on most every test (1/2 oz) so the 8 oz of CYA gives you enough for around 15 or so tests.
 
CH doesn't go down unless you drain and refill it with lower CH water.

I use a 10 ml sample, as it saves reagent, and with my numbers, 25ppm is good enough resolution. Your 500 is out of the ideal range, but it is do-able. Those of us in hard water areas can only dream of 200 readings - - since the water out the tap is above that. My CH is around 800, and as long as I keep TA and pH down, there's no scaling.
 
Hi Cajun, :)
When I test for CYA the very first time I use the directions for the fill lines on the bottle.
You never need R-0013 that much again once you get CYA up. I use the 10ml line in the vial with pool water then add up to the 20ml line with R-0013 for a 50/50 mix. This will save some reagent, as this will be enough to get to 40 ppm of CYA on the tube.

Chuck
 
Thanks duraleigh I'll be ordering more from you next month but good to know about the timeframes for testing.

Richard so you are basically using 8 drops of R-0010 and 2 drops of R-0011L? I assume that's what you are saying just reducing all the numbers in proportion to the reduced pool water in the sample.

chuck good point I never really though it of that way but as long as its a 50/50 mix you just need enough to get to 40 ppm. Thanks for the tip.
 
Cajun said:
Thanks duraleigh I'll be ordering more from you next month but good to know about the timeframes for testing.

Richard so you are basically using 8 drops of R-0010 and 2 drops of R-0011L? I assume that's what you are saying just reducing all the numbers in proportion to the reduced pool water in the sample.

chuck good point I never really though it of that way but as long as its a 50/50 mix you just need enough to get to 40 ppm. Thanks for the tip.
Nope. As it says in the extended directions
If you expect that your CH level is extremely high, you can do the test so that each drop is 25, instead of 10, to speed up the process and save on reagent usage. Use 10 ml of pool water, 10 drops of R-0010, 3 drops of R-0011L, and multiply the number of drops of R-0012 by 25 to get your CH level.
Although I use 5 droips of R-0011L because it makes the color more vivid. I haven't seen any difference in results with the extra indicator.
 
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