help with test kit and readouts please

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denice75

0
Jul 3, 2012
8
:? patience please this is all new to me

pool capacity: 15100gallons
inground - plaster
two way test kit reads pH @ 7.8 to 8.2 / FC @ ? assume at minimum 5 because OTO test is darker orange than color scale on test vial
region: Austin, TX
Sand Filter
Automatic CHLORINE dispenser now set to 1 with TRICLOR

problem is that the test hasnt changed in two weeks at least, the color on the scale is always the same for both pH and Chlorine - two days ago I added 4oz Muriatic Acid although the color on the test looked more crisp and vivid it was still the same outcome - I am reading past post and going with suggestions from PoolCalculator with TFP suggested outcome - I have never done any of this before and hope to use the BBB system. Also do I need to turn the water softener off to add water to the pool? Our water is extremely hard and calcifies everything badly - HELP - :shock:
 
If your PH is very high the test is going to look that color until you get it in range. So with the pump running add acid, wait 30min, test, add acid, wait 30 min, test, etc. etc. until you start getting a response in the test.

Your chlorine level does not appear to change because you are adding roughly the amount the pool uses everyday thru the feeder. If you take the trichlor out of the feeder you'll see the chlorine level come down over a few days.

Is the pool new? Or just new to you?

If you are going to manage this pool yourself you will eventually need a decent test kit. Have a read through the pool school articles to get a sense of the various parameters that are important to pool chemistry. It'll be a little overwhelming at first - but hang in there you'll get it with time.
 
to clarify I add "Muriatic Acid" & do I add 4oz at a time as the pool calculator said??? The pool is new to me, my partner was taking care of it but poorly and I stepped in, we just moved here.. I read through the pool school articles & am admittedly overwhelmed but breathing through it. What tests are necessary vs. not in your opp.?
Thanks Mucho!
 
The tests you need are FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, CYA. Best test kit for the money is the TF100 from http://tftestkits.net.

The amount of acid you need to lower pH varies with the TA; that's why a full set of tests is important. For that matter, your pH reading is questionable given the very high FC you show. And despite the high FC, without knowing the CYA level, there's no way to know if even that high level is high enough!

Stop reading, break out the plastic, and order the right test kit. You'll have it before the weekend if you order it now, most likely. Then go pull those pucks so FC goes down enough to get an accurate pH reading. Armed with the facts, the pool calculator, and some help here, you can have a crystal clear pool in a very short time. I'm talking clear enough to toss a quarter in the deep in and call heads or tails from the deck!
 
Hi Richard320, we are awaiting a TF100 test kit, in the meantime the chlorinator is off. As chance may have it we have had rain everyday for the last week requiring the pool to be backwashed twice so far and more rain to come, thank heavens! When I have tested the water the chlorine is on its way to being in balance so thats exciting to at least see some result however minimal~ will keep you posted as to how we progress once the kit arrives. Thanks again for your help~
 
the tf100 test arrived and here are the results:
FC - 10
TC - 10
CYA - 100
TA - 400
CH - 500
pH - 8.2 / Cl - 5 / Br - 10
the poolcalculator recommends 47oz Muriatic Acid & it says to lower CYA I need to replace 50% of my water? is there no way around this as we are in a drought????
also any advice on how to add the Muriatic Acid - all at once in the same place or around the pool in small amounts for example??
 
You can add muriatic by pouring it into the pool slowly directly in front of a return. It'll quickly mix. I you haven't used it before, stay upwind from any fumes....it'll take your breath.

If you absolutely cannot drain and refill, you must keep your chlorine up around 10ppm all the time. Stop using the pucks and switch to bleach.

Those are really your only choices and the drain/refill is the preferred one. You will have to stop using the pucks in either case.

Your first job is to get your pH down to around 7.4 with the muriatic. Then, read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School
 
Denise ..according to your test results your cya could be higher than 100 because I'm pretty sure that test only goes up to 100. Re test the cya using 50% pool water and 50% tap water and double the results and post it please. I suggest a drain and refill to get your cya down to 50 or so.......Mike
 

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YAY we have a pH of 7.2 and CL of 10! Thanks for all of your help friends~ I couldn't have done it without you
Mike I checked the CYA 3 times it was at least 120 then 100 then 110 but not with half tapwater- we aren't wanting to drain half the pool and refill bc of the drought the last 3 years - any other suggestions?
 
Denise
Trying to manage a pool with such a high cya reading can get expensive even.using the BBB method I think it would almost be a wash with draining half the pool water and replacing it vs the cost of bleach to maintain the proper fc levels at that cya. A pool with a cya of around 50 ppm is so cheap to maintain and a perfectly balanced pool is what we all strive for. If there is anyway to do the partial drain and refill you won't be sorry ,your life will be much.easier......Mike
 
Re: help with test kit and readouts please - update

today these are my test results
CL 0
BR 0
pH 7.6
FC 0
CC 0
TC 0
TA 280
CH 660
CYA 120/130

poolcalc recommends 3qts bleach / 1c7oz Muri. Acid / drain half and refill with tap water
other sites say CYA is not a bother if under 150 and clear water - even TFP site said draining is dangerous and can collapse the pool so with conflicting oppinions even within the same site we are deciding for now to not drain, thanks for all of your help. Sara
 
Other sites ignore the Chlorine/CYA relationship. You can have clear water and 150 CYA, but once algae comes its almost impossible to get rid of it, so those sites would recommend dumping copper-based algaecides in and thus cause pool staining because of metals.

You need bleach, immediately.
 
Even HTC suggests that a level of 100 is high and needs a drain. One of the main issues over 100 is that testing is inaccurate with all tests. It easily could be 220 or more. Just can't tell. Have you started using only bleach, or are pucks still in the pool?
http://www.hthpools.com/Docs/HTH_Pool_Care_Guide.pdf

As for draining.... 
A 100% drain isn't always safe. There are several risks. What we suggest is draining in steps. Start by draining a foot or two.....then refill. Drain a foot or two again....then refill. Keep doing this until your CYA level is lowered to 40.  At the rate you're going once you hit troubles with algae you're going to be dumping in hundreds of dollars worth or products to have a sub-par looking pool.
 
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