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Thread: Safe to swim???

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    Safe to swim???

    My husband is the president of our HOA, and our community pool management company said that the pool is safe to swim in even though the pump has been down since Tuesday. The chlorine levels are off the chart - not surprising as he informed us he has been shocking it every morning to try to keep the pool open. The water is very cloudy. The ph levels appear to be in the normal range based on the test kit we purchased from the local hardware store. I guess the bottom line is how do we tell if the pool is safe to swim in or if we should close it down.

    Thank you.
    Community Pool, IG, Plaster

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Safe to swim???

    Welcome to tfp, msce2

    Our guidelines for safe swimming (generally focused on residential pools) are:

    1. FC levels above the minimum normal level and below the shocking level for the pool's cya concentration. [Do you know your pool's cya level?] These levels can be found here: Chlorine/cya chart.

    2. ph between 7.2-7.8

    3. Pool bottom clearly visible.

    4. This one is somewhat debated/optional, but I do not like to swim when CC>0.5 ppm since forms of CC can cause eye and skin irritation.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Re: Safe to swim???

    Thank you for the quick response. The only test I was able to find at the hardware store - the closest walmart is 45min one way - had chlorine/bromine/ph levels. CL was bright yellow so it's above the 5.0/BR above the 11.0. Ph appears to be in the 7.2 to 7.8 range. The water is pretty cloudy but you can still see your feet at the bottom. The only instructions we were given - close the pool if you can't see the bottom anymore. I assumed that was for drowning purposes. However I think I will keep my kids out of it until the pump is repaired.
    Community Pool, IG, Plaster

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    linen's Avatar
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    Re: Safe to swim???

    Quote Originally Posted by msce2
    However I think I will keep my kids out of it until the pump is repaired.
    Good call. I really failed to address the pump issue. Adding chemicals without proper circulation is also a unsafe condition. In a small pool you might be able to get-by by brushing the pool when adding, but a larger pool would be difficult to mix properly, and you would not be able to ensure appropriate sanitizer levels though out the pool during swimming.

    I would shut the pool down until the pump is repaired, and the chemical levels are properly balanced again. Also, you should have a better test kit for maintaining that semi-public pool then you have. See Pool Kits compared for an appropriate test kit.
    TFP Expert who uses Pool School and my TF100 test kit along with PoolMath for my: Round 11K gallon AGP with deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft solar panels (and solar cover!), Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected) and a Rubadub hot tub (chlorine). The SLAM process is not finished until: 1. CC < 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT < 1.0 ppm and, 3. The water is crystal clear.

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    Re: Safe to swim???

    Quote Originally Posted by linen
    I would shut the pool down until the pump is repaired, and the chemical levels are properly balanced again. Also, you should have a better test kit for maintaining that semi-public pool then you have. See Pool Kits compared for an appropriate test kit.
    I second the shut down and getting your own good test kit.

    Welcome to the forum
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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    Mod Squad Bama Rambler's Avatar
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    Re: Safe to swim???

    You need to find out if you fall under the public pool rules.

    I also agree with the others. The pool should be closed if the equipment isn't operating.

    The HOA should have a good test kit.
    Dave J. TFP Moderator
    24' x 52" Round AGP. 2hp/¼hp SPL Power-Flo 2-speed pump. 200sqft Waterway Cartridge Filter. 45MHP2(3GPD) Stenner Peristaltic Pump
    Pool School ----- Pool Math ----- TF-Test Kit

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