Frustrated with Cloudy water and ph level

[GreatCanadian]

I just want to give you some input on your filtering. I'm no expert so you can take this with a grain of salt!! I have used the pump/filter system that you have there. I too have quite a few kids that swim in my pool (neighbors) along with my own two children. With that much traffic, that pump and filter cannot keep up. I would certainly recommend the sand filter in the link posted above. However, the pictured filter I believe is the 1600 gph filter, so you might wanna be sure before ordering. That being said, the 2650 gph sand filter normally comes with a 16" sand filter, and the one pictured is (I think) a 14 inch. My pool is 8000 gallons and I have the 2650 gph pump and 16" filter. A buddy of mine has the same size pool as me and he has the 1600 gph pump and 14" sand filter system. His works absolutely fine. If money is an issue, get the cheaper. I have another friend with the same pool as me, and he has an even smaller sand filter. His water is sparkling as well. The only difference you will find is you may have to backwash a little more often with a smaller filter. So in summary, the stock pump/filter that comes with any of the Intex pools is not sufficient to clear a pool with a high bather load. I think your pool just might clear up with a sand filter. I had trouble with the multiport valve on my pool this year soon after setting up my pool. So I was running only the stock pump and cartridge filter. My water was testing for good chlorine levels, but just would not come clear. After getting my sand filter up and running again, my water was sparkling again within a couple of days. So I think your best investment at this time would be to buy a sand filter.

You also asked about a salt water generator. You don't need one. It's just another way to add chlorine. It's nice and convenient, but not necessary especially if you're around every day to add bleach to your pool. It's something that you can get down the road when funds allow. But spring for the sand filter as soon as you can.

GC

 

[linen]

However, the pictured filter I believe is the 1600 gph filter, so you might wanna be sure before ordering.

Someone confirmed with intex within that last week that they no longer have a split shell for the intex and it is now one molded piece. The picture is the same as some that are on intex's site of the new shell.

 

[GreatCanadian]

Thanks. I did not know that!! Mine is the split-shell.

 

[CUTiger78]

Re: I'd prefer it to stay around the suggested 7.5 level

You should keep all your questions in the same string so that you don't get confused by what might appear to be conflicting answers.
Topics merged. JasonLion

In your original string, one of the posters came back and said he didn't intend for you to quit shocking, just quit using trichlor to shock your pool.

Good luck!

 

[ummhasan]

Re: I'd prefer it to stay around the suggested 7.5 level

Ok thanks for the merge. I didnt realize I was posting in a wrong way.

Thanks for telling me about the stop shocking. So what else should I shock with?

You should keep all your questions in the same string so that you don't get confused by what might appear to be conflicting answers.
Topics merged. JasonLion

In your original string, one of the posters came back and said he didn't intend for you to quit shocking, just quit using trichlor to shock your pool.

Good luck!

 

[frogabog]

If you have one pump, you only need two cartridge filters. One in the pump, one sprayed out with a garden hose and then soaked in a soup of dishWASHER degergent. Like Cascade. Then, rinse the souped cartridge out and swap for the dirty one, rinse that one and soak in the soup. If you can afford bulk filters... you can afford a test kit.

Additionally, now that you have the HTH kit, you only need the FAS-DPD test and extra CYA reagent, both are sold at TFTestkits.net at the most reasonable price available anywhere. I believe you can get everything you need for the price of four double packs of cartridges by the way...

 

[linen]

So what else should I shock with?

We prefer bleach/liquid chlorine.

 

[ummhasan]

If you are adding Chlorine (aka liquid sanitizer, bleach... same stuff , different names and strengths) and your numbers are going down over night, that mean you have organics in your pool (algae). Liquid chlorine is the most cost and time effective method for killing the organics and it alone will not make your water clear. Chlorine will make your water a cloudy, blue/white/grey color when all of the organics are dead and bleached out. Your filter or vacuuming to waste and replacing with good water are the only two ways your water will be clear. If your filter is getting plugged up...good, it means it is catching the junk and filtering it out of the water. When your pressures rise and your water flow slows through the filter, it is time to clean the filter.

Thanks, thats makes things less confusing and helps me understand whats going on. I appreciate your time! I am actually changing and cleaing the filter cartridge DAILY because it really gets very yucky daily - i mean the gray slime yucky stuff! I'll keep that up then and keep vacuuming daily.

Your comment about the Poolcalulator is saying you need to add stabilizer, it only says that if you set a goal for yourself that is higher than your current reading (ie you have 30 and your goal is set to 40). I don't know your CYA but I would not use any more powdered or solid products, I would also stop using algaecide or any type.

my CYA is 30 - i understood from reading here in the pool school that for vinyl it should be 50 - maybe i misunderstood. As for the algaecide, i didnt realize we should not use that. i've been putting it in and actually, i just poured some more in yesterday since i read that cloudiness is a sign of alge and I just purchased a new bottle today. I'm glad it was only about $6.

You test kit needs to be upgraded, if you are only using the OTO (yellow cap dropper bottle) you will see orange test results at shock levels of chlorine. The problem is you need to get your chlorine to the 10-15 ppm levels and this is beyond the OTO's range of accurate measurement. The TF100 includes the FAS_DPD CL test that will let you accurately measure CL levels required to shock a pool to kill the algae.

Ok, that makes sense. Is it possible to just purchase the FAS_DPD chemical and use it with my kit? My husband will NOT agree for me to purchase the expensive test kit - especially because i'm talking him into purchasing the sand filter and tonight he has agreed! I don't earn money myself so it's totally up to him.

Read your Pool School, it sounds like you are making progress but you are missing the understanding of why you are using chlorine (and chlorine only) along with a good filter to get your pool cleaned up and clear.

I've been reading - maybe it doesnt seem like it - but i have been reading and i did read through all the 'basics' before i ever posted. I will keep reading and again, thanks!

 

[ummhasan]

Your post is VERY helpful - thanks and we are going to go ahead and purchase that 2650 in the link.

I just want to give you some input on your filtering. I'm no expert so you can take this with a grain of salt!! I have used the pump/filter system that you have there. I too have quite a few kids that swim in my pool (neighbors) along with my own two children. With that much traffic, that pump and filter cannot keep up. I would certainly recommend the sand filter in the link posted above. However, the pictured filter I believe is the 1600 gph filter, so you might wanna be sure before ordering. That being said, the 2650 gph sand filter normally comes with a 16" sand filter, and the one pictured is (I think) a 14 inch. My pool is 8000 gallons and I have the 2650 gph pump and 16" filter. A buddy of mine has the same size pool as me and he has the 1600 gph pump and 14" sand filter system. His works absolutely fine. If money is an issue, get the cheaper. I have another friend with the same pool as me, and he has an even smaller sand filter. His water is sparkling as well. The only difference you will find is you may have to backwash a little more often with a smaller filter. So in summary, the stock pump/filter that comes with any of the Intex pools is not sufficient to clear a pool with a high bather load. I think your pool just might clear up with a sand filter. I had trouble with the multiport valve on my pool this year soon after setting up my pool. So I was running only the stock pump and cartridge filter. My water was testing for good chlorine levels, but just would not come clear. After getting my sand filter up and running again, my water was sparkling again within a couple of days. So I think your best investment at this time would be to buy a sand filter.

You also asked about a salt water generator. You don't need one. It's just another way to add chlorine. It's nice and convenient, but not necessary especially if you're around every day to add bleach to your pool. It's something that you can get down the road when funds allow. But spring for the sand filter as soon as you can.

GC

 

[ummhasan]

If you have one pump, you only need two cartridge filters. One in the pump, one sprayed out with a garden hose and then soaked in a soup of dishWASHER degergent. Like Cascade. Then, rinse the souped cartridge out and swap for the dirty one, rinse that one and soak in the soup. If you can afford bulk filters... you can afford a test kit.

Ok, thats what i did after it was suggested eariler. I actually did the 'soup' yesterday and it worked wonders on my filter. The bulk filters were only about $23 (not $70 like the kit and I did purchase the HTH test kit about 4 days ago for $23).

Additionally, now that you have the HTH kit, you only need the FAS-DPD test and extra CYA reagent, both are sold at TFTestkits.net at the most reasonable price available anywhere. I believe you can get everything you need for the price of four double packs of cartridges by the way...

Great! I just asked if i can just buy the FAS DPD test in my 2nd to last post - thats very helpful! I will do that asap.

 

[ummhasan]

Frogabog - do I ONLY need the tirating regnant or do i need everything that comes in the FAS/DPD kit?

 

[frogabog]

You need only the powder R-R0870, R-0871 titrating agent, R-0003 DPD reagent. Plus more R-0013 Cyanuric Acid Reagent. And a scoop.

Technically, you've got the cylinder from the HTH kit and a cya mixing bottle and cylinder, so you don't need to buy the whole FAS-DPD kit here FAS/DPD Chlorine & CC's test. You'll want to calculate costs of single items vs that kit but the CYA reagent is a sweet deal on a LOT of reagent for testing so do add that.

The single item tests are here http://tftestkits.net/Single-Item-Tests-c6/?

 

[frogabog]

The CYA refill is here. http://tftestkits.net/R-0013-CYA-Refill-8-0z-p52.html

You don't need a cylinder. I just realized the CYA test on the single tests page is a full kit, sorry. The refill is far cheaper.

 

[ummhasan]

thanks - i've just added all to cart - it comes to $27.15 which is close to the kit price BUT, since i'll be also getting an 8oz bottle of CYA refill and a larger size #3 reagent I suppose its worth the price - sooo.......i guess i'll have to go ahead and do that. i appreciate yours and everyone's help.

 

[ummhasan]

Ok, so i've ordered the new sand pump/filter - whoo hooo and after 3 days of daily filter cleaning/changing and vacuuming, my water is beginning to clear up!

 

[frogabog]

Looking good, I can see the fake tiles! Keep on filtering and maintaining chlorine at shock level. You'll be armed with everything you need soon, Dave gets these orders out likity-split like.

Don't give up on your cartridge filter 100% though. The sand filter is a better filter, but it is also a coarser filter media so it could pass fine particles. While clearing the pool with the new sand filter, try running the cartridge filter over the side with the skimmer full time to take advantage of the filter media in the cartridge. With the sand filter going it'll keep the tiny stuff suspended and give the skimmer pump a chance to catch it without having to deal with the bulk of the larger particle filtering.

I can't do without a skimmer full time so I'm keeping the cartridge filter all season. I ran the sand filter for about 20 hours yesterday overnight and have turned it off now. The water was nice and clear by about 8 hours into the first run of the sand filter. But my water was also just a little cloudy from being officially started up only a few days ago. Filtering a recent algae bloom takes a little more work, so don't expect a miracle from the sand filter alone (and also not on a schedule - run 24/7 while clearing algae cloudies).

 

[ummhasan]

ok, so do you mean to actually put the cartridge INTO the skimmer bucket once i get the sand filter/pump? Of do you mean keep them Both connected - how would i do that? I have the over the wall skimmer thing that I also use to power the vacuum.

I always run the pump i have now 24/7 and have NEVER turned it off since opening. Should I run the sand filter on a schedule after it clears? If so, how many hours is good to keep it running and keep it off and what do you all recommend as the best time to have it on/off.

As for the chemicals, i havnt ordered those yet but hope to do that today. With shipping its over $30 and I do have a Leslies nearby so i'm considering going to see if I can save there with the same chemicals before the online purchase since i have to go out today anyway.

 

[frogabog]

Ahhh... you've got one of those new fangled pumps attached to a through wall skimmer, correct? Hmmmm...

In that case, were it me and only because I'm a skimmer nut that doesn't want to power a big pump all day... I'd cut new holes in the pool and install the sand filter on the opposite side of the skimmer.

You can look at the link in my sig for an idea of how I'm doing this. I have hoses going over the top to a simple skimmer that is inside my pool. No through wall skimmer yet. The sand filter and SWG are connected through the walls of the pool separately.

The sand filter should be run on a schedule, yes. After you're finished clearing the pool.

Leslies has none of the chemicals you want. They'll look at you strange if you ask, and then try to sell you a Taylor K-2005 and tell you it's a K-2006. Then, when you get home and tell us what you got in your kit... we'll tell you to take it back because it's not what you want and they'll give you problems about returning it. This actually happens, frequently.

If you can call around to pool stores, you might find them on the shelf. I'd suggest calling the other stores available, and maybe even the ones that cater to the industry professionals. From my experience however, the prices are higher and in the end shipping is a wash.

That being said, I'm probably going to buy my one refill that I need locally because I can't put enough on an order to make it a wash.

 

[linen]

My perspective...don't cut anymore holes then necessary and instead ditch the old filter and only run the sand filter. It should skim adequately even on a schedule and probably better than your old filter. For sure it will filter the water better than the old filter.

 

[frogabog]

Most pools can get by without full time skimming I assume. Mine sits under a couple of leaky old plum trees that could have been planted in 1932 for all I know. That's the only place we can put a pool, under these trees. Probably should have clarified why I would use both in case it didn't apply.