Frustrated with Cloudy water and ph level

[Coastal Carolina]

Just a little tip from me........if you take your filters (I have 3 so I can always have one in use while the other is soaking) and put them in a bucket and let them sit overnight with a solution of dishwasher (Cascade) detergent, it helps to loosen the grime and grease on them. Then rinse well with water hose and let dry in sun. I have been using the same filters for 2 years and my water, along with BBB, is crystal clear. I KNOW I have saved alot of money not buying those dang filters!

 

[ummhasan]

Wow! Thanks Coastal Carolina! Thats for SURE a money saver. I sooo appreciate that tip! I've been rinsing them with water and putting them back - BUT, after it gets too yucky i put a new one in.

tech guy - thanks for your input too! The filters i was going to purchase in bulk are the exact name brand intex filters i buy 2 at a time for 10 bucks at walmart or kmart so i dont think they would be any different but i'm going to take up Coastal Carolina's idea and see how it works for me.

I think - the only factor that I have that maybe many of you dont (and i'm only guessing here), is that I have 6 kids who swim daily all day in my pool and thier friends come over to swim at least 1x week so thats a LOT of dirty kids in my pool - even though they spray off with the hose before getting in, its still feeling like over 100 degrees here and the kids a super sweaty!

So, i'm attaching some more pics here - the filter, the ph/cl test, the hoses, the alkaline test, and the cya test. Hopefully, that will give me a little more input.

FYI - yesterday, I had 19 kids in the pool for at least 4 hours. After they got out, I put the last 1/2 bag of shock plus (trichlor) in, about 1/4 bottle of sanitizer (liquid bleach 10%), and changed the filter to a brand new one. The pictures i'm including of the water are this morning after i vacuumed the pool. I'm also adding a little more (maybe 1 - 2 inches) of water today due to splash out yesterday and the water getting below the out-spout.

Alkalinity after 9 drops:

Alkalinity after 10 drops: (i did this to show the very first 'red' color and if there are any deeper red after adding more)

I added an additional 10 drops - 1 at a time - to see if the pinkish color I was 'thinking' was red would actually turn red but as you can see this is as red as it gets:

 

[ummhasan]

Any more suggestions with the new pics?

 

[Bama Rambler]

Looks like your CYA is about 20 ppm, FC is above 5 ppm, TA is 100.

I would keep the FC up and keep the pump running until it's clear. And next time you're going to ahve lots of people in the pool raise the FC a few ppm before they get in and again after they get out.

 

[JasonLion]

You aren't looking for any specific red, just something in the red/pink family. You add drops until it starts to turn red, then continue as long as it gets more red with each drop. If you add a drop and the color doesn't turn the sample any more red, you are done and the final drop doesn't count.

 

[techguy]

I found with my filter, the filter cleaner at HomeDepot helps get my DE filter fingers clean. It is a clear yellow liquid in a spraybottle with a bunch of warnings but it clean out the oils and loosens the debris. It's abotle 8-10 dollars but it doesn't take much.

 

[ummhasan]

Thanks again for all the replies! So, based on my CYA I should be adding some stabilizer according to the pool calculator.

Thanks again techguy for your suggestion - i'll buy some and see which method i like best.

Bama, that's precisely what i did. I raised the CL up before they came and as soon as they got out, I shocked with trichlor and added some additional CL. I also vacuumed 3x over.

Jason, thanks for clarifying that.

So, basicly, other than hardness and CYA, my water is good and safe it just needs some more filtering and constant daily CL additions until clear - is that correct? Should I keep people out of the pool until its clear?

Also, I found this filter on Craigslist - is it worth $175 and a good switch from what i've got?

Krystal Clear Deluxe Saltwater System (MODEL 8110)

 

[ummhasan]

Someone suggested a filter eariler in the post but I cant find the post again. When i searched it it cost like $300 bucks though. I searched intex site and seem that the model 8110 (without the additional filter housing) cost new $169 and the one with the filter housing attached is $269. Then, i checked out walmart and found yet another option the Intex Krystal Clear 1,600 Gallon Sand Filter

Can you all tell me what the BEST option for the BEST 'reasonable' price would be to replace my Wet Set Krystal Clear Model 51 filter-pump - if in fact it is a weak and not worthy pump. I really need to stay under $200 bucks if were going to buy another pump/filter (hoping to go to sand and salt). Since I have 6 kids and were just a 'normal middle class' family, money is always an issue! We own a used car dealership and scooter repair shop (together) and with the economy, we havnt been selling anything only making bits from scooter repairs in addition to just buying a house so that's where were at with what we can buy and not.

 

[linen]

As for intex filter products, the sand filters tend to do much better than their cartridge filters. The 1600 sand filter is decent, but usually you can get the 2650 sand filter for not much more and it is probably a better fit for your pool.

 

[ummhasan]

I'd prefer it to stay around the suggested 7.5 level

Thanks so much for this post! I have been broadcasting the Borax to raise my ph and in fact, i just added a little this morning given my ph was 7.2 and i'd prefer it to stay around the suggested 7.5 level. If I broadcasted instead of using the skimmer or the mix and dump method will it alter the reading? Is there anything I need to do now to correct that?

I know you posted on my other post so maybe your familiar with my cloudy water problem but I am also loosing chlorine over night but have shocked through 5 bags of 1ld trichlor and was told to stop shocking on this forum. Your article and a replier to my other post said that the trichlor shock is adding CYA to my water BUT My CYA is STILL (after all that shock) reading at about 30 ppm and the Pool Calculator says I need to ADD stabilizer!

Any ideas? (ta is right on, ph was fine but about 7.2, i'm adding CL DAILY about 1/4 a jug for my 18x48 intex metal frame pool - no swg, using 10% bleach).

Thanks

 

[ummhasan]

Thanks linen - that 2650 was the one i think that i found for $300. I'll keep looking for a better price. Also, i'm a little confused about the sand/salt thing. Are they two different things or one in the same? If I buy a sand filter do i also have to purchase a salt water pump or do they come together? I think the intex one is a saltwater AND sand system. Thanks again

 

[linen]

Re: BBB for Beginners

Thanks so much for this post! I have been broadcasting the Borax to raise my ph and in fact, i just added a little this morning given my ph was 7.2 and i'd prefer it to stay around the suggested 7.5 level. If I broadcasted instead of using the skimmer or the mix and dump method will it alter the reading? Is there anything I need to do now to correct that?

That should be fine, it you see it clumping anywhere give it a good brushing and that should break it up.

I know you posted on my other post

I will respond (and copy your question) there.

 

[linen]

From http://www.troublefreepool.com/post404326.html#p404326:

I am also loosing chlorine over night but have shocked through 5 bags of 1ld trichlor and was told to stop shocking on this forum. Your article and a replier to my other post said that the trichlor shock is adding CYA to my water BUT My CYA is STILL (after all that shock) reading at about 30 ppm and the Pool Calculator says I need to ADD stabilizer!

Any ideas? (ta is right on, ph was fine but about 7.2, i'm adding CL DAILY about 1/4 a jug for my 18x48 intex metal frame pool - no swg, using 10% bleach).

I am not seeing where you were told to stop the shocking process. However using trichlor to shock is adding cya to your pool, but since your cya is low, and if you keep track of how many pucks you are using, you can do it that way. It is not our preferred way since trichlor does three significant things at the same time...adds chlorine, adds cya, and lowers ph. Changing more than one thing at a time makes pool chemistry more complex.

 

[linen]

Thanks linen - that 2650 was the one i think that i found for $300. I'll keep looking for a better price. Also, i'm a little confused about the sand/salt thing. Are they two different things or one in the same? If I buy a sand filter do i also have to purchase a salt water pump or do they come together? I think the intex one is a saltwater AND sand system. Thanks again

You can get the 2650 for about 200 shipped: Here is one place: http://www.vminnovations.com/Product_5635/Intex-2650-GPH-Easy-Set-Sand-Pool-Filter-Pump-56671EG.html...it is also on amazon for just a little more.

 

[ummhasan]

Thanks linen - that 2650 was the one i think that i found for $300. I'll keep looking for a better price. Also, i'm a little confused about the sand/salt thing. Are they two different things or one in the same? If I buy a sand filter do i also have to purchase a salt water pump or do they come together? I think the intex one is a saltwater AND sand system. Thanks again

You can get the 2650 for about 200 shipped: Here is one place: http://www.vminnovations.com/Product_5635/Intex-2650-GPH-Easy-Set-Sand-Pool-Filter-Pump-56671EG.html...it is also on amazon for just a little more.

Great - Thanks!

 

[ummhasan]

Linen - here's where it was suggested.

Without a good test kit no one can advise at this point because we don't know your numbers. Also, for the time being, I would suggest NOT using any more of the "shock" product that you are using. It does contain dichlor and will be raising your CYA. Just use bleach to keep algae from getting started until you can get your water tested properly. Then you can begin to tackle your PH and so forth. You can't tell anything from those strips. They are worthless. Post back with information that harleysilo stated.

 

[ummhasan]

This is why i'm so confused as to what to and not to do! I understood eariler that my CYA must be really high do to using 5 bags of granular (not pucks) of trichlor shock in one week to try to clarify my water BUT, after purchasing the HTH liquid test kit it shows my CYA as being LOW not HIGH. Now everyone would agree that if it IS low then it's ok to keep shocking (but at the same time watching the PH), BUT - the question is WHY is the CYA still LOW after using 5 1b bags of granular trichlor (shock plus in the orange bags - that says it doesnt lower ph)?

From my testing, everything else is right on except the hardness (which to my understanding is ok to not be right on with vinyl).

What am i missing??? My water is still VERY cloudy, i'm loosing CL overnight (i'm adding about 1/4 of the bottle of liquid sanitizer 10% DAILY) - in the am the level is high like orange or dark yellow and by night time, its right in the middle of the test color, then I add a little more (due the cloudiness), then in the am (this morning to be exact) my CL was near zero (the test color was clear). I also kept the kids out of the pool all day yesterday to try and let it clear up.

What else am i missing, why is my water still cloudy? Why is my CL depleting so much (i know i have a LOT of direct sunlight)?

I'm so not trying to be a bug here - i just want to get this right.

Thanks

From http://www.troublefreepool.com/post404326.html#p404326:

I am also loosing chlorine over night but have shocked through 5 bags of 1ld trichlor and was told to stop shocking on this forum. Your article and a replier to my other post said that the trichlor shock is adding CYA to my water BUT My CYA is STILL (after all that shock) reading at about 30 ppm and the Pool Calculator says I need to ADD stabilizer!

Any ideas? (ta is right on, ph was fine but about 7.2, i'm adding CL DAILY about 1/4 a jug for my 18x48 intex metal frame pool - no swg, using 10% bleach).

I am not seeing where you were told to stop the shocking process. However using trichlor to shock is adding cya to your pool, but since your cya is low, and if you keep track of how many pucks you are using, you can do it that way. It is not our preferred way since trichlor does three significant things at the same time...adds chlorine, adds cya, and lowers ph. Changing more than one thing at a time makes pool chemistry more complex.

 

[ummhasan]

Re: BBB for Beginners

Great, thanks!

Thanks so much for this post! I have been broadcasting the Borax to raise my ph and in fact, i just added a little this morning given my ph was 7.2 and i'd prefer it to stay around the suggested 7.5 level. If I broadcasted instead of using the skimmer or the mix and dump method will it alter the reading? Is there anything I need to do now to correct that?

That should be fine, it you see it clumping anywhere give it a good brushing and that should break it up.

I know you posted on my other post

I will respond (and copy your question) there.

 

[techguy]

If you are adding Chlorine (aka liquid sanitizer, bleach... same stuff , different names and strengths) and your numbers are going down over night, that mean you have organics in your pool (algae). Liquid chlorine is the most cost and time effective method for killing the organics and it alone will not make your water clear. Chlorine will make your water a cloudy, blue/white/grey color when all of the organics are dead and bleached out. Your filter or vacuuming to waste and replacing with good water are the only two ways your water will be clear. If your filter is getting plugged up...good, it means it is catching the junk and filtering it out of the water. When your pressures rise and your water flow slows through the filter, it is time to clean the filter.

Your comment about the Poolcalulator is saying you need to add stabilizer, it only says that if you set a goal for yourself that is higher than your current reading (ie you have 30 and your goal is set to 40). I don't know your CYA but I would not use any more powdered or solid products, I would also stop using algaecide or any type.

You test kit needs to be upgraded, if you are only using the OTO (yellow cap dropper bottle) you will see orange test results at shock levels of chlorine. The problem is you need to get your chlorine to the 10-15 ppm levels and this is beyond the OTO's range of accurate measurement. The TF100 includes the FAS_DPD CL test that will let you accurately measure CL levels required to shock a pool to kill the algae.

Read your Pool School, it sounds like you are making progress but you are missing the understanding of why you are using chlorine (and chlorine only) along with a good filter to get your pool cleaned up and clear.

 

[Smykowski]

Also, for the time being, I would suggest NOT using any more of the "shock" product that you are using. It does contain dichlor and will be raising your CYA. Just use bleach to keep algae from getting started until you can get your water tested properly.

This doesn't mean stop the shocking process. This means stop putting bags of granulated chlorine that says the word "shock" on the label.

I think you're getting a little confused by terminology. Please reread "How to Shock Your Pool," "The ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry," and "How to Chlorinate Your Pool" in Pool School. Also, review this thread. I think that will help get everyone back to speaking the same language.