New pool, first test results....a little help please

[ducker]

Hi everyone, just setup a new Intex 16x48 5000 gallon pool (no SWG) Saturday and had the water tested today at a local pool store. I also got a HTH 6 way kit and tested just to see how close it came to the pool store analysis. It was pretty close for the items it tested with the exception of FC and CC which is not covered by the kit.

After reading many topics as well as pool school I'd like to try the BBB method. I plugged the numbers into the pool calculator and added 36oz of 6% bleach tonight but I have not made any other changes. I'm unsure if I should make all recommended changes at once or work on one number at a time until it is within range and them work on another.

So is it ok to add chlorine, baking soda etc.. per the pool calculator recommendation at once and then retest later to see where the numbers fall? If anyone has any suggestions on the best way to get my numbers balanced other than just do what the calculator says please post it up. If I'm using the BBB method and need to lower pH should I use muriatic acid per the calculator or is there another product that goes with BBB?

Thanks for any info

FC - .5
CC - 1.2
pH - 7.8
TA - 47
CYA - 10

 

[linen]

Welcome to tfp, ducker

If your CC measurement is right (pool stores can be unreliable), you need to do the shocking process.

To do that you first need to raise your TA a little. I would raise it to 70 ppm by adding 22 ounces by volume of baking soda (per poolcalculator.com and 5300 gallons for you pool).

Is ph from the strips or pool store? Then I would lower your ph to 7.2 ppm by adding 10 ounces of 31.45% Muriatic Acid (again I calculated using poolcalculator).

Next, I would raise your cya up to 30 ppm.

Then you will be ready to do the shocking process.

 

[wetchem]

FC - .5
CC - 1.2
pH - 7.8
TA - 47
CYA - 10

Hello... and welcome...

The pool store... well... not a lot of people place stock in those results.
Drop your pH to 7.2 by adding the acid... then increase your FC to shock levels and hold FC at that level until the process is compleated.... more:

- Get us some pictures of where you're at now!


- get a good test kit. Test Kits Compared You will need it. If you go with the TF-100, you might consider the the "XL Option" depending on how bad things are in the pool... only the first tests will tell, unless you're a person that spins the test-tubes like I do for a living, add the spin stir option too... you wont regret it! I have the TF-100...
the HTH 6way will work in a pinch; however, it will not work for what we need to do to get your pool to sparkle

- While you're waiting for your test kit: Read pool school (link in my sig and upper right corner)... personally, I started with Definitions and Abbreviations so that I could understand what I was being told and so that I could use the correct terms... will make things a lot easier for you to follow. Next I think you will be sent to How to Shock Your Pool... it's a process not a product.
I'd read both of these twice.... but then... I can be a little slow in the uptake
- IF there is any garbage in the pool, get as much of that junk out of your pool as you can... I'd take the stuff to waste... you're going to have enough going thru your filter during the "cure" for your sick pool. Scoop it, vacuum, what ever, just get as much as you can physically remove out of the pool as you can - even if you're doing it "blind."

- re-read the How to Shock Your Pool... it's a process not a product.

- When you start the Shock process... Set aside some time to do this.... it will take time... it will take effort... it will take patience.... ::

- price the liquid chlorine which is roughly twice the concentration of the bleach... It would be the only thing I would purchase from the pool store (and only then if it's cheaper there) unless someone here mentions otherwise. Often the local hardware store will cary the stuff too.

I would also get a sample of your feed water... with your test kit, run a full set of tests (except CYA, it more than likely will be zero) and post here when you get them... I'd also take a look at getting your feed water tested for metals.

Finally, before mods and the experts get here - I can not stress enough, take heart, you are not alone and the people here are here to help :!:

-wc

 

[wetchem]

Linen... even with the cut and past you beat me to the punch... I'm just getting too old and slow to type

I'm going to have to add the cya recomendation to my knowledge...
-wc

 

[ducker]

All numbers posted are from the pool store analysis but my HTH 6 way test was very close if not the same.

Thanks linen and wetchem, I'll get started raising TA and lowering pH then raising CYA to get ready for the shocking process.

The water doesn't look bad yet, just a slight green tint. I do have a good test kit ordered, just have to make due until it shows up.