IC60 reading high salt

[tcm]

I have an IC60 controlled by the Easytouch controller. The IC60 is saying that my pool salt is 4500ppm. But when I test the salt with the Taylor salt test I get 2800ppm. (same three test in a row). According to Taylor test I should be adding salt, and acorrding to the IC60 I should be lowering salt????? Now What????

Pool Numbers
Temp - 89F
FC - 4.5
CC - 0
PH - 7.8
TA - 60
CH - 280
CYA - 50
Salt - ?????

 

[charlesr]

First post after lurking for 5 months.

My IC40 is currently saying 4400, Taylor test of 3400. Current pool numbers:

Temp - 83F
FC - 7.5
CC - 0
PH - 7.8
TA - 70
CH - 320
CYA - 70
Borate = 50
Salt - 3400

Incorrect readings really fluctuated with water temp. When water was 52 deg in late winter, IC40 was reading 1800 and not generating chlorine. Bad bongos when you want to use an integrated hot tub. When I asked the pool builder/maintenance (still under warranty) said CYA needed to be over 80. I am skeptical.

So...like you, interested in hearing from the forum.

 

[zea3]

I have an IC60 controlled by the Easytouch controller. The IC60 is saying that my pool salt is 4500ppm. But when I test the salt with the Taylor salt test I get 2800ppm. (same three test in a row). According to Taylor test I should be adding salt, and acorrding to the IC60 I should be lowering salt????? Now What????

Pool Numbers
Temp - 89F
FC - 4.5
CC - 0
PH - 7.8
TA - 60
CH - 280
CYA - 50
Salt - ?????

I think in your case I would take a sample to a pool store for a 3rd opinion and see if it agrees with either test. Did you recently add salt or have a lot of fresh water dilution due to heavy rain? Have you cleaned the cell lately?

 

[charlesr]

In my case, pool store test for salt = 3500 yesterday. They also said chlorine was 5 but not FAS-DPD test.

 

[tcm]

Wow! Did you actually just reccomend I go to the pool store to test my water??? No thanks, they haven't gotten results anywhere near where my TF100 test kit results have been in the past. As for Salt additions, I haven't added any salt since starting the pool up last spring. We have actually had quite a bit of rain this spring, Which leads me to believe my test results not the IC60. I did not clean the cell but did open it up to inspect it and can't see any evidence of scaling.

Problem I have is if my test is correct and I add salt, the IC60 will then think I am above 4500ppm and stop working. I was wondering if there was a way to calibrate the IC 60 ?

 

[BillH]

The IC 60 will still operate above 4500 ppm, it was just give you a warning on the IC60 that you are high (it's in the manual). I know because I am having the same problem, my IC 60 was reading 4600 and my test were coming in around 3500 ppm. I did take mine to three different pool supply houses and the ones with good equipment validated my 3500 (one guy used a test strip or something to come up with a number). As far as I know, there is no calibration on the IC60, as I have been reading and no mention anywhere. Good luck, sorry I can't be more helpful.

 

[Steve737]

Having the same problem with my ic 40. Talked to pentair at least 5 times and the are telling me it either my posfates or my other numbers while within recomended ranges for the ic40/60 they are just not tight enough to keep the warning from triggering. They also said there are no adjustments on the newer units. Mine is still producing chlorine. I'm holding right at 4ppm. Anyone else heard the same thing? Steve

 

[tltmom]

Also having same problem with ic40. Pentair techs similarly unable to help.
I have a Taylor salt drop test that reads 600-800 ppm lower than the diagnostic on the easy touch. Test strips read even lower, so I quit using them altogether. I noticed as the temp of the pool water has increased, the ic40 seems to read a higher and higher salt level. Fortunately, the ic40 does produce chlorine now. so I've decided to not worry for now.

 

[Steve737]

That's what I've been doing as well. If I clean the cell it will usually shows a low enough level that the high salt won't come on but after a day it's back on. Also my cell is very clean. I can't see any scaling. When I clean with an acid solution I get just a bit of bubbling for about 5 min. I have an intelli ph system and I swear it keeps the cell from building any scaling. Time will tell if it shortens the life of the cell :?: Steve

 

[tcm]

Ignoring it would be fine but my question is, that my salt test only shows 2800ppm and the cell is saying 4500ppm. Is the cell producing the proper amount of chlorine at 2800ppm and what if it drops lower. Should I add salt to get it up to the recomended 3400ppm and not worry about the high salt warning on the cell? I have noticed that I have to run the cell at 80% to maintain 4ppm chlorine this year, last year I only ran it at 50%. Just wondering if the actuall lower salt levels are producing less than optimal chlorine?

 

[Steve737]

I think I would maintain the salt at the recomended level. I think that's 3400ppm. The way I think of it is it's not reading the actual salt level. Some of the experts want to chime in? Steve

 

[tltmom]

I was re reading this thread, as I'm still seeing the salt readings on my ic40 jump all over the place. In fact, the high salt light is flashing and my ET diagnostic reads 4500. My taylor kit reads 3800. I assumed the et readings are climbing due to the fact that the water temp is now about 95 degrees.
A thought for the OP - any chance your taylor salt kit needs fresh reagents? That could help explain the discrepancy.

 

[tcm]

I was re reading this thread, as I'm still seeing the salt readings on my ic40 jump all over the place. In fact, the high salt light is flashing and my ET diagnostic reads 4500. My taylor kit reads 3800. I assumed the et readings are climbing due to the fact that the water temp is now about 95 degrees.
A thought for the OP - any chance your taylor salt kit needs fresh reagents? That could help explain the discrepancy.

Don't think the reagents are bad but they were bought last summer. The 2800 reading seams like it would be right to me because last year when I added the salt to the pool salt was brought up to 3400ppm. I haven't added any salt since, and we have had quite a lot of rain this spring. Plus I have backwashed at least six or seven times since then. If anything I would have expected my salt to have been diluted lower then 2800.

 

[MattM]

Seeing a similiar problem here, but am unsure of cause --- Had a low FC event so shocked the pool (FC20-24 @ 50 CYA Shock, Normally 7-9FC), while shocking noticed that the SWG switched from normal operating mode to "high salt"...it said salt is 5400 today when it said it was 3500 yesterday and my tests show 3400. I do remember seeing the false high salt light come on once before last week....SWG is 7 months old (IC60). So either shock causes salt reading to inflate or SWG was reading salt incorrectly and not generating FC causing me to need to shock.

Our water and weather is relatively hot too.... constant 87-90 degrees in pool, air temps 75-80 for last several weeks. Yes, in socal - we call 80 degrees air temp hot if there isn't an offsetting coastal breeze.