Pls help me before I screw something up :)

samyournot

Member
Nov 28, 2009
9
My pump stopped working the other day. When I flip the switch, it hums, but the motor doesn't start.

I searched the forum and found several relevant posts. The general advice seemed to be to remove the pump lid and basket, clear any debris from around the impeller and make sure that it can spin freely. If that doesn't fix the problem, the next most likely culprit is the start capacitor.

Well, I checked for debris and made sure my impeller could spin freely. That didn't fix the problem, so I moved on to the capacitor. I attempted to access the start capacitor by removing the end cap on the rear of the motor. I loosened four "screws" that turned out to be rods that run pretty much the entire length of the motor.

Here's where things got a little complicated.

First of all, the motor is too close to the wall of my house to pull the rods all the way out. So I can't get the end cap off completely.

Second of all, even though I can't get the cap off completely, I don't see anything back there that looks like a capacitor.

Thirdly, since things weren't going to so well, I decided to abort the whole operation and do some more research. Problem is, I can't get the cap back on. It won't slide easily into place. I can't see or feel what's blocking it. And I sure don't want to force it.

So ... it appears that I'll need to detach the motor from the rest of the pump in order to continue servicing it. This bring me (finally!) to my question. What's the easiest (least error-prone) way to do that?

Take a look at this picture. Should I remove the four bolts that secure the motor to the motor back plate? Or should I remove the eight bolts that attach the motor back plate to the pump body?

[attachment=2:1xzparz2]Picture1.jpg[/attachment:1xzparz2]

Maybe it doesn't make much difference, but I wasn't planning on disassembling my whole pump and I don't want parts spilling out everywhere.

Also ... can anyone tell me where the start capacitor is located on this motor?

Thanks in advance.

Equipment list:
Pump: Jandy Stealth SHPM2.5
Motor: AO Smith O-193995-07
 

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:wave: Welcome :wave:

I am pretty sure you have to take the 8 bolts out (not the 4 on the motor). This will then give you access to the impeller which must be unscrewed (have to grab the shaft at the back of the motor and use a start wrench to spin the impeller) before you can remove the 4 bolts on the motor to fully remove the motor.

That said, you do not have to full disassemble it to get to the caps. You may have to remove the 8 bolts and then hopefully have enough room behind the motor to slide the impeller free. If not ... you should got have some strong words with the installer.

I have only seen the start caps in the motor shaft cover. There is a second cap in the large hump on the side, but that is usually for efficiency I believe.
 
we were talking about where the pipes connect to the pump. but you also have to remove the bolts from the equipment pad as well.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone ;)
 
Ok ... I got the pump and motor off the equipment pad. I got the end cap off and got a good look inside.

Here's what the motor looks like without the end cap:
[attachment=0:cglnuelg]2012-06-30_09-12-53_704 (Medium).jpg[/attachment:cglnuelg]

Here's what the inside of the end cap looks like:
[attachment=1:cglnuelg]2012-06-30_08-21-32_880 (Medium).jpg[/attachment:cglnuelg]

I can't find a product manual for this specific motor, so I'm not entirely sure what its start capacitor would look like. It's not that black plastic thingy at the top of the end cap (with the blue and yellow wires), is it?

The closest thing I could find to a product manual is this document: http://www.aosmithmotors.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=588.

According to this section, the Type code on my motor ("CX") indicates that it's a permanent split capacitor.

Type: This is a code for the electrical design of the
motor. For example, A. O. Smith uses “CX” to identify
its PSC switchless design. Other codes are “CS”
for capacitor start; “SP” for split phase and “UAK”
for capacitor start/capacitor run. Be sure to check
with your dealer or distributor, because each
manufacturer’s type codes are different.

And, according to this section, the permanent split capacitor design does not have a start capacitor.

Permanent Split Capacitor. This design does
not have a start switch and is often referred to
as a “switchless” motor. It uses a run capacitor
that remains in the circuit at all times. The PSC
design has significantly less starting torque
than the capacitor start design.
Motor Types

So, here's what I'm thinking:
1. This motor doesn't have a start capacitor. I should just reassemble the end cap, 'cause there's nothing to be done there.

2. I should replace the run capacitor (which is mounted on top of the motor housing).

What do you guys think? Is that a reasonable plan of action?
 

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