Came home today from work and my pump was not running. I went to look at it, flipped the switch off and back on and nothing. Felt the pump and it was very hot, I couldn't keep my hand on it for longer than 4 to 5 secs. We had a storm today and I know that that there were power issues in my area, which from what I have read could have lead to it over heating. I have read that some pool pumps power off when getting to hot, does anyone know if all pool pumps are designed this way. I have a very old pump and it has been running like a champ 20 to 24hrs per day for the last month with no issues.
Pump hot to touch and will not power on.
- Thread starter epxroot
- Start date
Most motors have a thermal device in the windings which will open the circuit when the temperature gets too high. This is purely a safety device designed to prevent destruction and fire, it should never trigger unless something is wrong. Way wrong.
Low voltage could cause overheating, but be sure to make sure that the impeller isn't blocked with some debris, verify that the motor shaft turns easily, and check the capacitor.
Low voltage could cause overheating, but be sure to make sure that the impeller isn't blocked with some debris, verify that the motor shaft turns easily, and check the capacitor.
Well, after it has cooled off a bit the motor just hums when I flip the switch, before it didn't do anything. What do you mean "check the capacitor"?
wetchem
0
If it has a thermal protection, and as hot as you say it is (like OUCH!!!):
For the pump at the hotel when this would happen, kids always plugging either the returns or the intakes with stuff:
Remove power to the pump either at the pump if there's a switch or at the breaker (we had to do this at the breaker)... some thermal protection circuits require the removal of power to rest. I don't know if yours will; however, usually it's a simple thing to do.
You will need to wait at least 1/2 hour... the body of the motor should be fairly cool to the touch - you should be able to keep your hand on the motor for a fairly long time.
If it is on a GFCI or simular circuit, double check that the protection is reset (Motel's was built in to the breaker, resets with the breaker reset, I don't know if that's universal with all breaker based protection)
I've seen in other applications that the motor may have a breaker that requires a reset... I don't know about pool pumps; however, worth a look.
I noticed that you don't have the manufucture make/model listed - that information will help those that know more than I to help answer your questions.
Once you've waited at least 1/2 hour, then return things to normal. Hopfully you're back in business!
You said that there was storm... brown-outs are very hard on motors, and computers, and will cause some motors to over-heat quickly as they're not moving enough to keep the cooling working.
-wc
[EDIT]
capacitor... note: this is not my video... just one I Googled: pool pump capacitor check
For the pump at the hotel when this would happen, kids always plugging either the returns or the intakes with stuff:
Remove power to the pump either at the pump if there's a switch or at the breaker (we had to do this at the breaker)... some thermal protection circuits require the removal of power to rest. I don't know if yours will; however, usually it's a simple thing to do.
You will need to wait at least 1/2 hour... the body of the motor should be fairly cool to the touch - you should be able to keep your hand on the motor for a fairly long time.
If it is on a GFCI or simular circuit, double check that the protection is reset (Motel's was built in to the breaker, resets with the breaker reset, I don't know if that's universal with all breaker based protection)
I've seen in other applications that the motor may have a breaker that requires a reset... I don't know about pool pumps; however, worth a look.
I noticed that you don't have the manufucture make/model listed - that information will help those that know more than I to help answer your questions.
Once you've waited at least 1/2 hour, then return things to normal. Hopfully you're back in business!
You said that there was storm... brown-outs are very hard on motors, and computers, and will cause some motors to over-heat quickly as they're not moving enough to keep the cooling working.
-wc
[EDIT]
Sounds like something blocking the impeler.epxroot said:
capacitor... note: this is not my video... just one I Googled: pool pump capacitor check
wetchem
0
Something to note... in the video, he simply touches the capcitor to discharge... what that's ok, when I used to work in an appliance repair shop, we had a shorting strap with two leads. We'd cover the capcitor, hook one lead to ground, hook to one side of the capcitor... the the second lead to the other post of the capcitor then the final connection to ground. For the large capcitors (tvs etc) we'd leave them hooked this way for at least 5 minutes. We'd then take the two ground clips and clip them togeither leaving the strap connected to the capcitor. Then proceed to remove it from the circuit for testing.
This may not be needed for pool pumps; however, a safety thing we did in the shop (that was like mid 80's when I was doing that... wow, when did I get that old?)
-wc
This may not be needed for pool pumps; however, a safety thing we did in the shop (that was like mid 80's when I was doing that... wow, when did I get that old?)
-wc
Thanks for all the info wetchem! I tried spinning the impeller, it spins but not too easily, is that normal, or should it spin pretty freely by hand?
wetchem
0
Thinking about the pumps in the lab equipment... normally it doesn't take too much force to get them to turn, the rotation feels smooth while being turned, and most will spin just a little bit on their own if you put a lot of force into turning them... we've circulating waterbaths that use fairly small motors. As for a larger one for a pool, I would expect that you should have something along the same experence... hopefully someone here will have more information for you on that.epxroot said:
- Should note:
Some capcitors have a polarity marking on them ... although the video states that it is not an issue, if you have a DC motor or DC ciruit it does matter. IN any case.. if your capacitor does have a polarity marking on it make sure to replace in the same manner manner. It may not matter in an AC circuit; however, it wont hurt in an AC circuit... connecting backwards in a DC... that can be an issue
-wc
It is very hard to turn by hand. I notice that when I turn the pump on the impeller begins to spin and stops, but in the opposite direction I am turning it. If I try to turn in the direction it tries to spin, it just unscrews.
wetchem
0
Left hand thread in the shaft... not unusual. It should turn easily in either direction If there's enough binding to allow you to easily unscrew the impeller then more than likely the moter bearings have failed. Check for a grease fitting somewhere on the motor... may not be one...If there is a lube point, then you need to look to see if it's oil or grease. Pots are normally oil. Fittings are normally grease. Usually there will be an indication as to which and type of oil/grease to use on the motor. If the bearings are sealed.... I've rarely been able to repair the motor. You can try to force some white lithium or maybe moly into the bearing caseing... once in awhile I could get a motor to limp along of a few days until the new one would come in at the shop. 10 years on a sealed bearing motor is fairly good!epxroot said:
(note I edited my last post)
-wc
I think you are right, wetchem. I think the bearings have failed. I think I am going to take the pump in to the pool supply store tomorrow and have them replace the motor in it. I think the motor is $190, so not too bad.
wetchem
0
Sorry I couldn't give you a better answer.
Sometimes the motor bearings can be changed out... would be cheaper than a whole new motor/pump...
You might also call around to the industrial suppliers. Sometimes they will do a core exchange for a motor... once gain cheaper than a new pump.
IN anycase... once you pull the motor... check that the impler turns freely... it should either be sitting there lose with no support or if on a shaft, it shouldn't bind when you try to turn it.
Sometimes the motor bearings can be changed out... would be cheaper than a whole new motor/pump...
You might also call around to the industrial suppliers. Sometimes they will do a core exchange for a motor... once gain cheaper than a new pump.
IN anycase... once you pull the motor... check that the impler turns freely... it should either be sitting there lose with no support or if on a shaft, it shouldn't bind when you try to turn it.
No need to apologize wetchem, you had a lot of good information. I bought a new motor put it in this morning and fired it up (I didn't know they ran that queit lol) and all is working as it should. I have noticed one issue though. I kicked my pump on around 12:30 or 1:00pm today. I checke don it about a half an hour ago and the motor was running pretty hot near the impeller, and as I moved my hand back towards the end of the motor is was more cool. How hot are these things supposed to run? It is running great and has been for around 5hrs now.
The "Motor" part of the motor (and consequently the copper / electricity that produces the heat) is up at the front (closer to the impeller), and it is kind of acting like a flow through fan for the air for cooling.
wetchem
0
I wouldn't think the impeller casing should be hot... the pool water should be acting like an iternal cooling line; however, that's based on experience with lab pumps that are much smaller. The motors can get fairly warm; however, the impeller sections take on the temp of the water flowing thru them. The HUGE pumps in the plant have cooling lines for the shafts and seals... now those can get a tad warm; however, that's also usually due to the product moving thru them - but if that seal water goes out, the shaft and the seals get hot and fail.
If you're talking about the motor body then they can run fairly hot... double check that any vents are clear.
I know that my little pool pump (see sig) is fairly cool when running.
I'd personally double check that the impeller is turning freely and that there is good flow thru the pump... hopefully someone that knows your make and model will be able to answer.
I simply don't know anymore... best wishes.
- wc
If you're talking about the motor body then they can run fairly hot... double check that any vents are clear.
I know that my little pool pump (see sig) is fairly cool when running.
I'd personally double check that the impeller is turning freely and that there is good flow thru the pump... hopefully someone that knows your make and model will be able to answer.
I simply don't know anymore... best wishes.
- wc
It's a replace motor on a sta rite pump. The motor is an Emerson 3/4 hp, Model# C55CXKLR-5005. It has been running pretty hot since I posted my last reply. Still seems to be running fine. I can feel the hot air blowing out from the pump from it's ventilation, but it is hot to the touch.
- May 28, 2009
- 35
This exact thing happened to me after a power outage on Saturday. Kinda creepy that youre experiencing the same exact thing I have. I will check the listed solutions and update with any findings that may help us out!
I would like to expand on Ivodjambov"s post.
Please confirm that power is OFF to the pump. Safety first.
Please use caution when handling the electrical wiring before discharging the capacitor. Capacitors can hold an electrical charge even with the power disconnected from the pump.
To dicharge the capacitor, using a plastic handled screw driver, place the blade of the screwdriver in contact with both terminals of the capacitor. DO NOT touch the metal shaft or blade of the screwdriver when discharging the capacitor. It is not uncommon to see an arc of electricty and hear a "snap" as the capacitor discharges.
Please confirm that power is OFF to the pump. Safety first.
Please use caution when handling the electrical wiring before discharging the capacitor. Capacitors can hold an electrical charge even with the power disconnected from the pump.
To dicharge the capacitor, using a plastic handled screw driver, place the blade of the screwdriver in contact with both terminals of the capacitor. DO NOT touch the metal shaft or blade of the screwdriver when discharging the capacitor. It is not uncommon to see an arc of electricty and hear a "snap" as the capacitor discharges.