New and need help!

[macker36]

First, I'd like to say what a great resource this site is- Thank you!

After reading the recommendations here, I just got myself a Taylor test kit.

I've just completed my first test, please take a look at my readings and any suggestions are welcomed.

Pool is 2 years old (this is my first year).
Up until now I've just being using basic OTO / ph test kit. While Using that Ive had low chlorine level and high ph. Numerous trips to pool store have just had me coming home with, phosphate def, Ph decreaser, powder shock etc (as recommended by pool store!) hence why I've decided to take charge! (With your help that is

Here are my results:

TA: 120ppm
PH: 7.9
FC: 1.4 ppm
CC: .6 ppm
CYA: ?? The water did not turn cloudy??

Ps
If you think my numbers don't make sense please let me know and I can retest.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Bama Rambler]

The first thing I'd do is adjust the pH to about 7.2 then I'd add some CYA to get to about 30 ppm. Once that's in there I'd start the shock process.

Also, you can use the 10 ml sample for FC/CC instead of the 25 ml sample. It'll save you reagent.

 

[Thinkly]

Does your test kit test for cya?

 

[macker36]

Hi Thinkly.... Yes, it does but I couldn't ger a reading. Water ever turned cloudy. I'll try decrease PH like Bama suggested

 

[BoDarville]

macker36:

I would try testing the CYA again. That test can be a bit subjective to get a good reading. For example, I ran a CYA test and got 40 ppm. I immediately took the same sample of water to the pool store just for grins. They came up with 80 ppm. I learned to trust my results over the pool store's.

The most accurate results are usually obtained by holding the CYA view tube outdoors with your back to the sun while holding the view tube at about waist level, shaded from the direct sun. The combination of bright indirect light provides the most accurate viewing. If sunlight is not available, find the brightest artificial light you can. Looking down into the view tube, slowly pour the mixture from the mixing bottle into the view tube. Continue pouring until all traces of the black dot at the bottom of the view tube completely disappear. If you fill the view tube all the way and you still see the black dot clearly, then your CYA is at or near zero. If the black dot is viewable but partially obscured, then your CYA is higher than zero but less than the lowest level on your view tube (usually 20 or 30 ppm). If either of these cases are true, I would get the CYA up to 30 ppm as Bama suggested before starting the shock process.

Here's the link to the complete extended test kit directions: http://www.troublefreepool.com/extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html

 

[macker36]

BoDarville, I will try the test again..thanks for the tip. I haven't added CYA before. What's the best way to add it? Instructions on tub say add to skimmer, guy at store says in a sock.?.

 

[duraleigh]

Macker,

If the solution stayed clear and you followed the directions for the CYA test, it simply means you have no CYA. Since you haven't added any before, that would seem to be an accurate test.

 

[macker36]

I just did again to make sure and it stayed completely clear. What's the best way to add? Thanks

 

[YippeeSkippy]

I just did again to make sure and it stayed completely clear. What's the best way to add? Thanks

I found the way I had most confidence in was to pour the desired amount into a pool skimmer sock or one of my husband's athletic socks. Tied it (knotted) it closed and then just hung it from a short section of pool noodle (toy) and let it float around. Making an "x" shape out of two short pieces of noodle and hanging the sock from the center point will ensure that it won't be able to just float into the wall and remain against it.
I give the bag a little squeeze now and then while swimming by. It dissolves in about 2 days.
I am cautious about adding CYA, always leaning towards adding *too little* rather than too much, since it is a problem to remove. Don't forget that it takes a week or so to register on your tests, although you can assume it is in there and take it into consideration when planning your chlorine shock levels.

 

[BoDarville]

macker36:

Thanks for retesting. Worth verifying IMHO, especially on that particular test along with the fact that it is much easier to add CYA than to get rid of it if you add too much (as YippeeSkippy pointed out).

I use the sock in the skimmer method. Others have hung/suspended the CYA-loaded sock into the water in front of one of the return jets. Either method works. Giving the sock an occasional squeeze will help speed things up with either method.

 

[macker36]

Ok, I got PH to 7.2 and I've put some CYA in a sock...I'll update you I guess when it dissolves a bit.
Thanks!

 

[macker36]

I notice the PH is up again. Do I just use PH decreaser again to bring it down? Ill check CYA later

 

[Butterfly]

I notice the PH is up again. Do I just use PH decreaser again to bring it down? Ill check CYA later

When pH hits 7.8, lower it to 7.2.

Don't test pH when FC is above 10 because it will read a false high.

Don't test CYA until after about a week after it is dissolved. You might just be wasting reagents if you do. Keep a log of how much CYA you add.

 

[macker36]

Here's an update of my results after adding CYA (1.5kg/ 2.2lbs):

CYA:30 ppm
PH: 7.5
FC: .8 ppm
CC: .2 ppm

Suggestions for next step?? Am I ready for shock process? (I'll have to read how to do that in pool school)

Thanks

 

[yeggim]

Here's an update of my results after adding CYA (1.5kg/ 2.2lbs):

CYA:30 ppm
PH: 7.5
FC: .8 ppm
CC: .2 ppm

Suggestions for next step?? Am I ready for shock process? (I'll have to read how to do that in pool school)

Thanks

First off, stop using the 25 ml sample when testing. Use the the 10 ml sample where each drop of R-0871 reagent equals .5 ppm of FC. The large 25 ml sample where each drop equals .2 is using two and a half times more reagent. You will deplete your supply of reagent quickly during the shock process. If you are the mad scientist type and have plenty of R-0871 on hand, continue. :-D

By all means read Pool School. You're set to start shocking.

Your shock number for CYA of 30 is 12 ppm of Chlorine. You must hold your Chlorine there till you pass the OCLT test and your water is crystal clear.

Shocking isn't a one time thing. You must hold your shock level as best you can with frequent testing and adding enough bleach to stay there. Don't be afraid to overshoot your 12 ppm mark. That number is the minimum shock number. If you can't be there to add chlorine when needed, take it up higher to 15 or 20 ppm. This way you can stay ahead of the algae etc. and hopefully be at or near shock level when you get home. Don't go crazy as too much chlorine can fade a vinyl liner but 15 or 20 ppm will be fine.

 

[macker36]

Thanks yeggim, I'll use the 10 ml sample from now on....no, I'm not the mad scientist type, just the inexperienced type
How much liquid chlorine would you suggest to get to those levels based upon the size of my pool?
Is it best to not let anyone swim in pool during the shocking process?

 

[Butterfly]

Thanks yeggim, I'll use the 10 ml sample from now on....no, I'm not the mad scientist type, just the inexperienced type
How much liquid chlorine would you suggest to get to those levels based upon the size of my pool?
Is it best to not let anyone swim in pool during the shocking process?

Yes, it is best not to swim during the shock process.

You can use the PoolCalculator.Com to calculate the doses for you.

Here are the directions for shocking: pool-school/shocking_your_pool

Post back with any questions.

 

[yeggim]

Thanks yeggim, I'll use the 10 ml sample from now on....no, I'm not the mad scientist type, just the inexperienced type
How much liquid chlorine would you suggest to get to those levels based upon the size of my pool?
Is it best to not let anyone swim in pool during the shocking process?

Like Butterfly says, swimming is not a good idea during the shock process. Nobody swims till the water is properly sanitized and clear. I don't let anyone in the pool while shocking but I myself will get in and brush the pool. I have an old pair of shorts just for shocking. Brushing will accelerate the kill rate of algae by breaking that slime barrier and exposing it to the Chlorine. You can brush standing topside too.

Take a look at PoolCalc. The folks that run this place and created the PoolCalc should get the Nobel Prize for Economics and Fun. Not only are we able to enjoy more time in our pools headache free but are able to do so at a much lower cost.

Go to PoolCalc and fill in your present test results. At the bottom in Suggested Goal Levels put TroubleFreePool.com, Vinyl and Bleach as your choices in the drop down boxes.

I see you're not sure as to the volume of your pool. We can go with 15,000 gallons for now. Put that at the top of the Calc in "Size". If you added any bleach in the last hour or two, test and put that result in the "Now" box in the "FC" section. Next put your "Target" number right next to it. Don't forget to put your other test results in the "Now" boxes, especially your CYA number. So, if you have 2 ppm of Chlorine "Now" and you put in 13 in the "Target" the Calc should read "Add 342 ounces of 6% bleach. Make sure you put 6 in the % box if using six percent bleach. If you are using a different strength of liquid Chlorine you would put that particular percentage in the box. There's 10% and 12.5% Chlorine sold at pool stores and Walmart etc.

 

[macker36]

I used the pool calculator (thanks for the tip
When I put in FC as .8 and target as 12, it says I need to use approx 12x5 liter jugs, sounds like a lot to (probably because I had no clue about it until I came to this website) Just want to see if it sounds about right.
Any idea how long it would take to drop back to level for swimming. (2 young kids here, that I'll have to keep out of pool )

 

[yeggim]

I used the pool calculator (thanks for the tip
When I put in FC as .8 and target as 12, it says I need to use approx 12x5 liter jugs, sounds like a lot to (probably because I had no clue about it until I came to this website) Just want to see if it sounds about right.
Any idea how long it would take to drop back to level for swimming. (2 young kids here, that I'll have to keep out of pool )

You don't let it come down to you pass the OCLT test and your water is crystal clear.

The OCLT test is a way to determine if you still need to stay in shocking mode. There's two criteria to the OCLT test and water clarity is the third.

• 1

You lose only 1 ppm or less of Chlorine overnight.

• 2

You have only 0.5 Combined Chlorine or less.

• 3

And last but not least, your water must be clear. Not somewhat clear but truly clear.

Let's get a baseline here. What does your water look like? A pic would be very helpful. The OCLT test is a near foolproof way to determine if anything is growing in your pool. There's only two things that eat Chlorine. Sun light and organics. You test after sundown to rule out sunlight. You test again before the sun hits the pool to rule out organics. If you lose more then 1 ppm of Chlorine between sundown and sunup, that means that something organic is in the pool consuming Chlorine.