lime green pool

Jun 25, 2012
17
Help! My pool is lime green. It is a 16 x 40 ft IG pool - TC 2.5; FC 2.5; pH 7.8; Total Alkalinity 130; Calc 450, stabilizer 55.
Started out one week ago- pool was cloudy and I took a sample to the pool store. They had me add 1 qt phosphate remover, 3 lbs shock, and 2 bottles of clarifier. Pool turned green. Went back and they told me to add 12 lbs of chlorine which I did. No change. Went to another pool store. They had me add 12 lbs alkalinity increaser and then a clarifier. No change. Went back again. Had me add 3 bottles of metal stain remover and keep the filter running. No change.

????
 
When you say lime green, please be more specific. Is it clear and you can see the bottom, but has an emerald color? Or is it green and cloudy and you can't see anything?

Have you read Pool School (top right corner of every page) yet? If not, please do. It will help with the discussion that is going to follow.
 
Can't find the test kit - took it to another, more reputable pool store and they ran the water again and said it had 0 0 chlorine in the pool! Don't know how if I put in all of that stuff. Anyway, they recommended 6 lbs of shock and some algae remover, which I added. Will shock again tonight and see what happens.
 
Do yourself a favor and order one of the recommended test kits. The fav around here is the TF100, link in my sig. That will put you in control of your pool. They have excellent service and fast shipping.

Next, read Pool School. It may take a little time to get a handle on it, but we will be here to help.

The only thing we suggest that you use to shock your pool is plain unscented household bleach/liquid chlorine. They are the same thing, sodium hypochlorite. It is just that one is stronger than the other.

Based on your posts, it looks like you have added a couple things that your pool did not need or the side effect of the addition is problematic. So, for now, keep the pH about 7.4ish and use bleach/liquid chlorine to sanitize and shock.

Post a full set of test results when you get them. We need to see:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CYA
CH

If you haven't already found it, the PoolCalculator.com will help you with every dose calculation for your pool.

A pic of your pool would be helpful, too.

We have lots of folks around here ready and able to help. Welcome to the forum :wave:
 
Welcome to tfp, mccartc :wave:

Sounds like you have spent a lot of money at the pool store without much success :(

As mentioned, get an appropriate kit, that will give you the tool you need so you are not just following the pool store's expensive and ineffective advice.
 
Will order the test kit and head for the grocery store. I've read Pool School, but I confess to not understanding half of what I've read in spite of being a rather thoroughly educated person. Hubby took care of the pool for years, and then went and died on me.
I don't understand why you say I'm not shocking the pool. The packages of 'shock' I'm using are chlorine. Can you explain further? Sorry to be so dense.
 

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Shock is the "marketing" name for a bag of powered chlorine. This is not what we calling "shocking your pool"

"Shocking" your pool is the process of raising (and keeping) the chlorine level in your pool to a point where it kills the algae. The important thing is to keep the chlorine level high enough to get all of the algae and other stuff out of your pool. Your filter is then used to filter this dead algae and other debris out of your water so it is clear and sparkly.

What is the correct chlorine level? It's a big IT DEPENDS. It depends on your level of stabilizer (aka CYA) in your water. The higher the stabilizer, the higher the chlorine level required to kill the algae. Read the Pool School and focus on getting the algae dead. You will know all of your algae is dead when you pass the OCLT, it's all in the pool school.

Test and post your results here. some one will help you get the levels sorted out.
 
I was going to ask about your FC and CC levels but your CYA =100 and this is not good. CYA in excess of 100 will make your pool very hard to shock and manage. The other issue is the CYA test is not accurate above 100ppm. I would suggest you retest the CYA with 1/2 half tap water and 1/2 pool and the reagent. The number you get will be half the actual value in the pool. So, if your CYA is really 100, the retest will show 50. If your retest shows 75, you really have about 150 ppm.

Post your new CYA value here and someone will be along. If you really have CYA in the 100+ range, you are a good candidate to drain some of your water. If you need to drain some water, you want to do this before you add ANY chemicals or they are just wasted down the drain.
 
mccartc said:
but I'm not sure how to get the FC and CC levels on this test kit.
You can't. See the test kit link in my sig.

mccartc said:
ok adding the half tap water, and then the reagent, it came up to somewhere around 45.
Just to make sure you did this right...please explain, did you just dilute your pool water 50/50 with tap water, then added an equal amount(to the 50/50 mix) of the reagent.
 
Yep, thats right :goodjob:

So your cya level is 2X45= 90 ppm.

I would do a partial drain/refill to get down around 50 ppm (44% drain/refill). Depending on pool surface and your water table, you may want to do this in steps.

Could you post your pool and equipment details in your sig. It makes us more efficient helping you.
 
If you take photos of the filter, motor, valves and piping and the labels on each of them... and any other "unknowns" and someone here is likely to recognize them and help you to better understand what you have..
 

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