Sta-Rite Dura-Glas 1HP replacement

[cschnurr]

I have a Sta-Rite Dura-Glas 1HP 220V which was installed with our new 96,000 litre pool 3 years ago. The pump ran about 10 hrs/day from May to September each year.

I have a STA-RITE Cristal-Flo Filter Sand Filter Model T-249BP-1. The system ran at about 10psi, and I backwashed around 15. We live in Ontario Canada, I disconnect it each fall and store it in the basement until spring. When connected, the pump is unsheltered.

Today, I decided to start preparing for pool season and pulled the pump out of storage. I took the clamp ring off to ensure the throat is clear, put some o-ring lubricant and put it back together. I primed it and plugged it in but it howled. I pulled the motor off, it or howls when plugged in by itself. I suspect its the bearings.

The only thing I can think of is that I am using a SWG and I have often let water spray directly onto the pad when backwashing. Could the exposure to salt water contribute to corrosoion?

Can these motors be serviced?
If so, should I to to a motor repair shop, or pool maintenance store?
If it can be serviced, should I replace the entire pump or just the motor?
If I replace just the motor, should I replace the seal too?

I appreciate any help you could provide.
Thanks

 

[cschnurr]

PUmp Failure- potential cause?

Another possible contributor to premature pump failure may be due to the fact that I have had water behind the liner in the deep end where the sloped wall meets the floor. The affected area has been about 6' wide x 3' deep and the liner 'floats' about 1" off the wall. (I have another thread discussing this @ http://www.troublefreepool.com/viewtopi ... highlight=)

I think this may be related because often when my Hayward Ultra passed over this area, it stalled and the filter pressure dropped, likely due to the liner being sucked into the opening and restricting the flow. I had occasionally noticed cavitation in the return lines. I imagine this could cause premature failure of the pump.

 

[JasonLion]

3 years old is very early for pump problems, even with the additional issues you mention. Sometimes the bearing lubricant settles to the bottom over the winter and it takes a minute or two for it to redistribute once the pump starts for the first time of the season. Sometimes the shaft is a bit stuck in the spring and needs to be freed up by hand before the pump will really get going.

Typically you would replace the motor while keeping the pump. If you replace the motor you should replace the shaft seal as well.

 

[HarryH3]

I replaced the bearings in my 2.5 HP pump motor last year. I just took the old ones to a shop that specializes in bearings and they matched up a new set for me. It was pretty easy. I also replaced the ceramic pump seal while everything was apart. It's all pretty easy if you're handy.

I think I'll do the same to my Polaris booster pump this year. I would rather do preventative maintenance on my schedule than have an unplanned failure at a time when I can't easily deal with it.

 

[cschnurr]

I enquired about the cost of replaceing the bearings and seals at a local pool store.asked at the pool store. They wanted $90. A local motor shop fixed it for $62.

Now we're just waiting for the temperatures to start warming up.

Thanks