Seriously considering the conversion... BUT

Jun 21, 2012
11
JasonLion said:
Welcome to TFP!

I don't know about "through the roof", but more for sure. The high shock/oxidizer level will require extra chlorine, but it isn't as bad as having a high sanitizer level. The shock/oxidizer goes away cleanly, it is the sanitizer that makes goo as it goes away.

Water mold is never an issue with chlorine.


Yes! THANK YOU! We had skyhigh oxidizer levels after this "Baq battle's" misinformation fountain of chemical$ (oxidizer,CDX and Flocking) were advised. After seeing no real change, we did some online research. Upset to learn the true REALITY (Baq doesn't DO what we were told- "kills everything" :roll: ) We just went for it today, and started with non-chlorine K+___. We don't want to swim in a watermold/pink bio-threatened pool, but after a few hours just couldn't wait, & started dumping in jugs of bleach. So far, so good. Now we'll sleep, as we felt able to shut off the solar. Before reading this, we feared the Fanta-sea deck might get gel clogged. When testing: we aren't even reading any sanitizer level presesnt! 12X24X4 AG w/solar deck 87degree water Thank you!
 
BaquaNOT:

Stay the course with BBB and you will not regret it. I made the change late last season and have never looked back. I have reduced my chems from about a dozen to three (actually primarily two: Bleach & MA). Saving much $ and pool has never looked / felt better and that not just my account but what others have told me as well. Have a much better understanding of what's going on with my pool.
 
BaquaNOT:

BacquaNOT said:
With all the solar deck, I just hope this won't take forever. 2 day: 14 lb liquid beach 6% and 12 lb HTH super shock... And no FC registering on the strip yet.

If you are testing with strips, I wouldn't put much faith in their accuracy. Besides, if you are shocking properly, you will need a test kit containing a FAS-DPD chlorine test. Click the Test Kit Comparison link in my sig, all of which contain FAS-DPD capability and all the necessary tests for proper pool maintenance.

Before going too far with the shock process, I would verify your pool's CYA level. That is a factor in determining your FC shock target. Without knowing this, you risk improperly shocking your pool and wasting chlorine. For more info, read How to Shock Your Pool at: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/shocking_your_pool
 
I did the baqua-slime for a few years 15 or so years ago, have also done the pool store thing, self testing, drops, strips, using pucks, bleach just about everything except SWG. Out of all of it I find BBB with a metering pump for Chlorine is the best. The great thing about BBB is you can embrace as much or as little of it as you want to, it is all about understanding what is going on in your pool and staying in control

Ike
 
The last backflush was more brown (& mustard), and the pool is looking more yellow/clear. We are finally getting some FC. Getting hopeful. We don't have the FAS-DPD capability kit yet, but the: hth 6-way test strips (reading 5 FC) and the OTO 5 yellow drops anr now up at 5 TC .Thanks, after i read this, the pool places were already closed. Since we finally have some chlorine reading...we backed off til morning and will re-asses then.
 
Other interesting note: the pool store tested our water for us a few weeks back telling us our sanitizer was super high. But our Baq test strips didn't detect ANY. We believed them... then the white haze started getting worse.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.