Can't keep my pool from turning green!

[verano711]

I've been fighting my pool since we opened it Memorial Day weekend. It seemed to open okay but then it was turning green so I would shock and then the algea would die but the pool was cloudy. I took a sample of water to my pool store thinking that I had a high concentration of metals in my water (had that problem last year, we top off every year with well water). They said I didn't have metals, but phosphates. I bought the PhosFree and ran the pump for a week. The water was still cloudy and turned a green/brown color yesterday so back I went to the store. They still I still have the same level of phosphates (1000). The test results below are from a sample taken this morning.

FC - 2.0
TC - 2.0
pH - 6.8
TA - 90
CH - 250
CYA - 60

Since I want to try the BBB Method I used the Pool Calculator and added 76oz of Borax ( it says 139 oz but I am adding in steps.)

When ever I add my chlorine (http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=prod4340004&navAction=), I get a film on the top of the water. You can see it in the picture.

I ordered the TF-100 today to help me in the future.

I have not been able to vacuum since I opened because I cannot see what to vacuum up since the pool has not been clear all year

Any help would be appreciate.

 

[Richard320]

I wouldn't do anything to the pool until you get your test kit. When you have readings you can trust, then you can plan your strategy.

Spend the time you're waiting reading Pool School. Especially the part about the shock process. It's not a one-time thing, it's a process. It's not a product. Nor is it something you should need to do on a regular basis.

 

[Smykowski]

Welcome to TFP!

Richard's right. Read ALL of pool school, then read it again. Then focus on the ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and this thread.

Phosphates are a money maker for pool stores. Ignore them. JasonLion has a phosphate number of about 5000, but it doesn't matter because he's keeping it properly chlorinated.

Any application of "shock" that you did only killed a fraction of the algae in the pool. The chlorine was quickly consumed, then they reproduced, and that's why you're not making headway. Also, the film you're seeing is the chlorine working. You're just not putting in nearly enough for nearly long enough to see any results.

Save yourself the headache - don't go back to the pool store anymore. Spend the time while you're waiting for your kit reading Pool School and as many other threads here that you can digest. As soon as you get your kit, post a full set of test results here, and we'll help you get it back to clear.

 

[BoDarville]

Hi verano711

Welcome to TFP

Echo what previous posts stated about reading Pool School while you are waiting for your TFT test kit - time well spent.

One more thing you can do while waiting is stock up on bleach / liquid chlorine. You can use grocery store bleach (plain, unscented, and without thickeners). Discontinue using the Chlorinating Granules you purchased. I clicked the link and the active ingredients are: 56% available chlorine, 99% Sodium Dichloro-s-Triazinetrione Hydrated. This is code for Dichlor. This product will raise your CYA almost as much as it will raise the Free Chlorine (FC) level. Since your CYA is 60, you do not want it going any higher. The higher the CYA, the more FC will be needed to successfully shock the pool. Use the bleach / liquid chlorine as your chlorine source during the shock process and then for ongoing chlorine maintenance. Bleach / liquid chlorine will add FC without increasing the CYA. I get much of my bleach (plain 6% Clorox) at Sam's or Costco - comes in a box of 3-182oz jugs. Both have high product turnover which assures fresh product.

 

[verano711]

I just got my TF-100 kit in the mail!!! We just added new DE to the filter last night so it is running better.

Here are my test results:

FC - 0.5 ppm
CC - 1.5ppm
pH - 6.8
TA - 150
CH - 250
CYA - 70

I put these numbers into the Pool Calculator. If I understand it right, I need to add 3 boxes of borax to get to pH of 7.5. And my FC shock level is 28ppm? So I need to go buy a lot of bleach (6%).

Is this right? It seems like I need to add a lot.

 

[duraleigh]

Is this right? It seems like I need to add a lot.

it's because your CYA is too high for a manually chlorinated pool. Drain/refill about 35% or so of your pool and get your cYA down to around 40-50. Now everything will get easier.

read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School then read "How to Shock Your Pool".

 

[JasonLion]

Bring the PH up to at least 7.2 before you start shocking. Remember that high FC levels (over 10) invalidate the PH test results.