So I think I want a Liquidator...

doublewide6 said:
carlh said:
doublewide6 said:
I don't know anything about the salt. I am assuming you have a saltwater pool?
No. Read the manual, bottom of page 4, and page 5. When free chlorine is removed from bleach, what remains is salt and water. The salt is heaviest and builds up in the bottom of the tank.

I don't have the manual yet, unless it is available on-line? But now I'm very interested in your question as well. Maybe someone will chime in on it for us. Have a good one.
Did you notice that the words "the manual" in my post were a different color? That often means you can click the word or phrase for more information. Try it now - click on those words in the quoted section of my post above.

There's also this thing called Google. Try Googling the words "Hasa liquidator". That's how I found the manual.
 
Bama Rambler said:
The unit I had is now 3 years old and sits right out in the full sun and it's showing no signs of degrading. The float valves have been changed a couple of times, but they have a lifetime warranty and Hasa ships them right out.
I didn't notice it came with a lifetime warranty until you said that - excellent! And thanks for all the other good feedback.
 
Thanks for answering all the questions Bama.

4 More questions for anyone:

1. What color should I paint the LQ?
2. Does anyone have a pic of a method to shade the LQ?
3. I also upgraded the control valve to a Hayward needle valve and it makes fine tuning the flow much easier. Do you have a link or pic of this?
4. Do you have to mail back the old part to get your warranty parts?
 
More information - I noticed that the technical manual said the warranty was one year, but the website link to the warranty said lifetime so I called the 800 number and spoke to a very nice lady at Hasa who told me that the plastic tank itself has a 1 year warranty, but all the moving/internal parts are lifetime warranty.

And then she volunteered the best information - inside the unit there is supposed to be coupons for free bleach and a rebate form! The free bleach coupons are for Hasa's own brand, which obviously can't be shipped, but if your local pool store carries Hasa products, then you can use the coupons there. The rebate is for $50 and runs through the end of this year. She also said, if you don't get the rebate form, just call and she'll e-mail one out.

I told her I was going to post about the rebate and that they'll probably sell a lot of units. So off you go!
 
iam4iam said:
doublewide6 said:
I like the LQ option because it is cost effective, simple to install and operate, does not require electricity or pumps, and only requires 2 holes to be made into the existing plumbing.
I can't argue with the simplicity of LQ (compared to other methods of automated chlorination), but unless you spend less than $100 per year on bleach, SWG might be more cost effective in the long run. I'm considering automated chlorination methods and I estimate the SWG will end up costing me about $100/yr in the long run.

Does that take into account the intial purchase and the fact that the cell will need replacement? I think I read 3-5 years - is that accurate?
 
It was a very rough approximation, but I was taking into account at least part of the initial purchase, and I'd hope ( :roll: ) to get more than 5 years out of a cell, since I'd buy one rated 3x my pool volume. (Initial purchase price)/(original cell life), which would certainly be less than $200/yr for the first cell's life and then probably less than $100/year for subsequent cells. This is my first year with a pool, but at $2/gal of bleach and 5 gal/week, I'll spend nearly $200, if not more, on bleach this year!
 
doublewide6 said:
1. What color should I paint the LQ? It doesn't really matter but most people paint them white.

2. Does anyone have a pic of a method to shade the LQ? When I had it, it spent the first year in the open and then I built a lean-to over the equip and it was under there. It sits out in the sun at my Sis's place now.

3. I also upgraded the control valve to a Hayward needle valve and it makes fine tuning the flow much easier. Do you have a link or pic of this? Drillspot is the best place I've found.

4. Do you have to mail back the old part to get your warranty parts? We never have. Just explain what's broken and they send them to you.
 
iam4iam said:
It was a very rough approximation, but I was taking into account at least part of the initial purchase, and I'd hope ( :roll: ) to get more than 5 years out of a cell, since I'd buy one rated 3x my pool volume. (Initial purchase price)/(original cell life), which would certainly be less than $200/yr for the first cell's life and then probably less than $100/year for subsequent cells. This is my first year with a pool, but at $2/gal of bleach and 5 gal/week, I'll spend nearly $200, if not more, on bleach this year!
Don' forget that a SWG doesn't run on sunlight unless you install a solar array to power it. You can find other posts here that suggest the watts burned by a SWG can exceed 300 - which is at least a $15 hit on the monthly bill, if not more depending on rates.
 

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bibeaud said:
Before you drill your pvc pipes, you can use a quick disconnect connector to connect the liquidator hoses to your filter pumps drain plug hole (LQ out hose ) and if you have a heater, the drain plug hole (LQ in hose).
Definitely worth looking into and quickens the install and makes disconnecting the LQ easy too.


Can you give some specifics on what to use for your suggested connection method? That sounds like a great idea.
 
I got my liquidator today, and it looks like I can just remove the Automatic Chlorinator and plug in the liquidator using the same saddle valves and holes. By looking at my video would the hole locations be acceptable? I know the one hose is supposed to go before the pump, but if I use the preexisting holes it will be right after them pump. Please check out the video to see the location of the saddle valves will work out. Thanks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4j_6Qw0wXM
 
The outlet of the LQ has to go on the suction of the pump. It won't work if the LQ outlet is on the discharge side of the pump. You can use one of the tablet feeder holes for the inlet of the LQ and the pump strainer basket drain plug hole for the outlet.
 
It looks like you could reuse one of the holes but the other would need to be new. Why pull the chlorinator out? Someday you may sell the place and people may want one...
 
Thanks for all the help on getting my liquidator up and running. I made a video for the people on the forum to give them a better idea of what all is involved in installing a LQ. I do not claim to know a whole lot of anything about liquidators, and I am sure there are better ways to attach the plumbing, but this video is how I did it, and it is working well. Please enjoy and I hope this my help out other forum members. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcCTgLOgJQI
 
So, I'm up and running using 6% bleach in my LQ, but it seems like I'm going to need it set at 4.5 on the flow meter to keep the FC up to 6 ppm
I am figuring that I am losing about 3ppm FC per day in the sun and about 1ppm FC at night and I am running the pump for 8 hours. The manual states that I should not have to run above 4 on the flow meter is this because the manual is assuming that I am using 12% bleach?
 

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