Bonding an above ground pool

Here is my thread that shows the lugs and split bolts. Its page 3. It sounds more daunting that it actually is. I had found a good youtube video but cannot locate it again. Will post it here if I find it again.

My Thread

Drilling a 3/16 hole in the skimmer is not that big of a deal. The skimmer is a 49 dollar part at best. Drill the hole, shove the waterbug through it and providing you are atleast somewhat confident in your drill handling its a 42 dollar part vs a 120 dollar waterbonder. That is the reason I went with the bug. Either way you choose, bonding is a good idea.
 
Getting 9 square inches is easy. Surface area of a cylinder = area of sides+area of ends. This cylinder is hollow, so to get 9 square inches it would be surface area of sides equal to 9. Surface area for sides formula is (2pi)*radius*height. Or in my case (simplified) 6.28*.75*h = 9, and solving for h we get ~ 2" of metal that needs to be exposed. That would be a 3.5" or 4" nipple, depending on how far you screw it into the PVC. I was thinking about a hose clamp, but Lowes/HD sell the correct bonding clamp.

As for inspections, we don't have them. I am out in the county and they don't do much with pools except that you need a proper fence or a ladder that is removeable or has swing-up steps. Mine has swing-up steps. For temporary pools like the Intex they don't have any regulations at all.
 
With the high price of copper the average price I've found is roughly between $1200-$1500.Thats for running power from the panel to the pump and bonding the pool.You could possibly save money by putting in post and digging the trench from the house to the post.Recently ran into issue with electrical inspector about how pool was bonded.He told me pool had to connected to 4 points .Problem is I have an Aqualeader composite pool so there is only one place to connect and thats the bolts that join the pool.Everything else is composite.After explaining this he passed it.I also have a fitting on the return that gets connected to rhe pool and pump bonding.The inspector said he's never seen that before.......oh well.

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Sounds like the inspector in that area needs to open the code book once in a while.

From the 2011 nec book...


"680.26b1 Conductive Pool Shells. Bonding to conductive pool shells shall be provided as specified in 680.26(B)(1)(a) or 680.26(B)(1)(b). Poured concrete, pneumatically applied or sprayed concrete, and concrete block with painted or plastered coatings shall all be considered conductive materials due to water permeability and porosity. Vinyl liners and fiberglass composite shells shall be considered to be non-conductive materials.

680.26(C). Pool Water. An intentional bond of a minimum conductive surface area of 5806 mm2 (9 in2) shall be installed in contact with the pool water. This bond shall be permitted to consist of parts that are required to be bonded in 680.26.”
 
Bonding is not required in AGP pools holding 42" inches of water or less. They are considered Storable. You local authority may differ but that is unlikely.

Bonding is required on all other AGPs.

The 4 equally spaced connections does not apply to most AGP with a solid metal wall. They only require a single bonding connection. The 4 equally spaced connectors apply to pools with rebar or copper grids. Your inspector may see it differently. If you have a resin pool shell with metal supports, each support must be bonded, not just 4. NEC 680.26 (B) (4) Read ALL of 680.26!

A water bond and a shell bond are critical. Additionally any concrete deck within 4 feet is also critical. This is where most electrocutions occur. Someone in the pool steps out and completes the circuit. They feel a tingle of a shock.

As Dan states the inspector is your friend. Talk to the inspector before you do it.

If you are feeling a tingle or a shock now you need to have a qualified electrician evaluate it and determine how to repair your bonding. This is not a DIY project.
 
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